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Board index » Table Tennis Equipment - Specialised/Mainstream » Long Pimple rubbers

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haggisv
PostPosted: 30 Jan 2007, 16:49 
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I've never bothered much trying to clean the pips of my LP rubber apart from an occasional wipe with a damp sponge. Generally I lose pimples
after a few months, so any thorough cleaning is not required before this.

However I keep accumulating more LP rubbers, so I use any one rubber less often, so they tend to last longer...

I've seen a few people cleaning the pips with a toothbrush, mainly to wipe off the white dust that accumulates on the sides of the pips.

What do others use the clean (or even rejuvenate) their LP rubbers?

Cheers!

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Mathias
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PostPosted: 30 Jan 2007, 17:07 
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erhh.. good question - I don't. Technically the dust on pips would count as altering the physical properties of the rubber.

Using SpinMax is one way to get grippy pips. I've a TSP 'nail brush' but it seems a bit harsh for delicate pips.

Dusty pips do have a advantage - but cleaning them isn't easy.

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Tabletennissam
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PostPosted: 30 Jan 2007, 20:05 
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This is the nightmare of robot training. The balls get dusty and you do lots of hits. My SP's when I first trained with them were white/brown when i'd finished in there, and very hard to clean. Not too hard to clean the grooves between the pips, but the actual surface was difficult - also looking for a solution!

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Servio
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PostPosted: 30 Jan 2007, 21:22 
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if its OX I guess you could just take em off your bat and soak them... I mean its rubber... water wont affect it if you let it dry after.

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haggisv
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PostPosted: 31 Jan 2007, 06:29 
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I'm not so sure that soaking would be a good idea. The water we have here in Australia leaves a lot of calcium deposits...

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haggisv
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PostPosted: 31 Jan 2007, 14:28 
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Spinmax and a brush (like a toothbrush) might be an option. Although I'd be a little concerned that the heptane would soak into the base of the pimples and bubble it.

The guy who invented spinmax plays at my local club, he's also a LP player. I must remember to ask him if the stuff is suitable, he must have tried it.

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Mathias
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PostPosted: 02 Feb 2007, 08:52 
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Tabletennissam wrote:
This is the nightmare of robot training. The balls get dusty and you do lots of hits. My SP's when I first trained with them were white/brown when i'd finished in there, and very hard to clean. Not too hard to clean the grooves between the pips, but the actual surface was difficult - also looking for a solution!


Yeah I train against a return board (TSP - its not bad actually nice and adjustable) and I know what you mean, but dusty long pips are highly playable unlike short pips. I guess its a way for a long pip player to 'dust in' their pips to prevent variation or else loads of cleaning.

The real hassle of pips is you can't clean them between matches because as soon as they get wet they take ages to dry, unlike inverted where they can be perfectly cleaned. Wet pips would be a problem for an umpire because the friction character changes completely.

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Mathias
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PostPosted: 02 Feb 2007, 08:56 
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Servio wrote:
if its OX I guess you could just take em off your bat and soak them... I mean its rubber... water wont affect it if you let it dry after.


It is easy to remove OX but thats because its difficult to stick it again. You can't put any glue on the OX rubber - you can only glue the blade. A glue sheet is a better option although the last one I put on stuck to the blade after it was removed and so alters its playing characteristics. In summary its not a good idea to be remove OX in the same where you do with speed gluing.

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Mathias
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PostPosted: 02 Feb 2007, 08:58 
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haggisv wrote:
Spinmax and a brush (like a toothbrush) might be an option. Although I'd be a little concerned that the heptane would soak into the base of the pimples and bubble it.

The guy who invented spinmax plays at my local club, he's also a LP player. I must remember to ask him if the stuff is suitable, he must have tried it.


Wow a tt legend. Also could you ask him was the chemical composition differences are between SpinMax red and SpinMax blue?

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haggisv
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PostPosted: 02 Feb 2007, 10:04 
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I asked him this already. One is just a thinned down version of the other.

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Mathias
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PostPosted: 03 Feb 2007, 01:11 
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Thanks - hmm... not reflected in the price :(

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haggisv
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PostPosted: 03 Feb 2007, 07:19 
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Well the stuff is mostly heptane, with a cleaning agent. For one of the version they just added less cleaning agent. I'm sure none of the ingredients are expensive, so it makes little difference in price on what the composition is...

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