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 Post subject: Nathanso's LP Graveyard
PostPosted: 08 Jan 2012, 08:15 
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I've tested dozens of LP rubbers over the past few years and wanted to share my findings on durability. The list below represents LPs that have experienced broken pips, either missing altogether (which is easy to detect) or partially-broken (which takes deliberate inspection and good eyes). I only recently became aware of this latter type of pip failure and it has finally explained for me why some LPs I've tested started out playing very well only to become 'maddeningly inconsistent' (as I've become fond of writing) over time.. sometimes a very brief time indeed.

For fellow pip torturers who may be interested, here are the simple tests I've developed to detect partially-broken pips:

1) Rub thumb horizontally across pips in the opposite direction of your stroke. Do this first across the base of the rubber just above the label; then a second time across the sweet spot. If the sweet spot pips feel softer or bendier you very likely have partially-broken pips.

2) With a strong light and well-focused eyes (I need my strongest glasses for this task), bend back the pips and look for breaks at their bases.

I've seem similar failures in OX and sponged LP of the same topsheet, and in red and black of the same topsheet, so I've made no effort to differentiate based on those properties in most cases, though I have a hunch that OX LPs fail faster than sponged, and black LPs are stronger than red.

Here's a list of my failed LPs and a few MPs, sorted weakest to strongest:

=== Broken LPs:
Meteor 71-2
Sword Scylla OX
DF 1615
Meteor 8512
Yasaka Phantom 0011 Infinity
Donic Akkadi L1
Dawei 388D-1
RITC 837
Milky Way Neptune
Cloud & Fog III
Kokataku 911
DHS C-8
Spinlord Dornenglanz
Palio CK531A
Bomb Talent
Dawei Saviga V
TSP P-1R
Prasidha Long A OX
Xiom Guillotine
AIR UPUPUPUP US
Prasidha Long A 1.1
Giant Dragon Talon
RITC 755

=== Unbroken LPs:
Milky Way 955*
CTT Pogo
KTL Stranger 1.2

=== Broken MPs:
Hallmark Half Long
RITC 563
DHS PF4-874
DHS 874
Kokataku 110

* Preliminary

I'll add to this list as I test more rubbers, and I invite others to contribute their findings to the thread as well!

Edit: I'll be editing/adding to this list so please don't quote it in its entirety in replies to this thread.

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Last edited by nathanso on 15 Jan 2013, 14:56, edited 7 times in total.

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PostPosted: 08 Jan 2012, 08:26 
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Great information! So all these are black? If not, it would be good if you specified color. I'm surprised you haven't tried 729 755.

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PostPosted: 08 Jan 2012, 08:53 
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Good information. :up:

Nathanso, you really should try out 755 OX (red), they have really improved their pip durability. :)


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PostPosted: 08 Jan 2012, 08:57 
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I'm testing 755 red 1.0 right now, in fact. It's more squirrely than I prefer, but no broken pips yet. Most pips below are red; maybe 80/20 red/black.

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PostPosted: 08 Jan 2012, 11:38 
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With respect, I suggest that there must be a technique, paddle or some other issue involved. I have to believe 99% of us would not break a single pip on all those sheets if played with regularly for one year-unless we hit the edge of the table. You must hit with your LP VERY hard. Do you have some match video?

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After 9 years of LPs on BH I have gained too much weight and slowed down too much to be a chopper. I have gone to double inverted!

729 HS champ carbon Sword Maze FH/Juic Nanospin II BH (both max)
Double Fish Chen Qi carbon Sword Maze FH/Tenergy 80 BH (both max)


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PostPosted: 08 Jan 2012, 14:01 
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Great post nathanso! :up: :up: :up:

I think other people's experience may vary, particularly for the some of the Chinese ones, because there seems to be quality control issues, so some batches are much more durable than others.

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PostPosted: 08 Jan 2012, 14:10 
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Excellent observations. I tend to think that those of us that think we have never broken pips actually have just never realised we may have some partially broken ones. But then if we're using pogo, maybe we really have never broken a pip :D

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PostPosted: 08 Jan 2012, 22:34 
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RebornTTEvnglist wrote:
Excellent observations. I tend to think that those of us that think we have never broken pips actually have just never realised we may have some partially broken ones. But then if we're using pogo, maybe we really have never broken a pip :D


Or opponents hit harder in California (just joking, but maybe something to that). I tried the "rub technique of 3 sets of mine after posting and did not find any evidence of broken ones. I will check out some more later. Maybe I try too many types or switch rackets too often? I certainly do not hit hard with them.

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After 9 years of LPs on BH I have gained too much weight and slowed down too much to be a chopper. I have gone to double inverted!

729 HS champ carbon Sword Maze FH/Juic Nanospin II BH (both max)
Double Fish Chen Qi carbon Sword Maze FH/Tenergy 80 BH (both max)


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PostPosted: 08 Jan 2012, 23:03 
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vanjr wrote:
With respect, I suggest that there must be a technique, paddle or some other issue involved. I have to believe 99% of us would not break a single pip on all those sheets if played with regularly for one year-unless we hit the edge of the table. You must hit with your LP VERY hard. Do you have some match video?
No table contact involved, honest. As Tat and JimWeiland can attest, I do demand a lot from my LPs. I hit a whipping BH drive that develops a near loop with the ball and I hit it with a lot of power. Robot training at home doesn't do much to extend their lifespan, either. :D

Plenty of OOAK members have reported losing pips on everything from 1615 (legendary pip shedder) to Grass D.Tecs (ouch $$!)

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PostPosted: 09 Jan 2012, 00:23 
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Actually, the worst pip durability was Leggy (1.0). I was testing it's ability against robot, in a 2 hour session, lost 8 pips in the middle. :)


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PostPosted: 09 Jan 2012, 02:07 
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Nathanso, this is a good thread that peaks my interest. One of the biggest reasons I dump a sheet of LP is the durability factor. From what I recall, here is my own list:

Donic Alligator - 7 mins chopping - mainly vs medium topspins. .6mm black. Pips just shredded off the blade.... 13 of them.

TSP Curl P3 Alpha - 45 mins chopping hard and fast loops. Pips weakened severely at their base in the sweet spot..6mm red

RITC 837 - 2 hours normal match play on a single day - weakened pips at base red ox.

Donic Akkadi L1 .6mm red - 4 hours if regular match play - weakened at sweet spot.

Longer lasting pips I had:

Stiga Destroyer - averaged about 2 months before signs of weakened pips at base. Mainly black ox and red ox pasted on .6 mm RITC sponge

Grass Dtecs ox red and 1.6 black - 3 months max before signs of weak pips and loss of spin but better control.

TSP Curl P1R ox red and 1.2mm red/black - I played for about a year interchanging the two with no signs of pips break if weakening, only wearing down of the tips where my finger rested and the tops in the sweet spot zone. It does feel slightly softer and broken in but no physical proof of damage.


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PostPosted: 09 Jan 2012, 07:30 
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I'm at the club right now playing with a new sheet of TSP P-1R 1.2 red and no signs of pip breakage after 4hrs hard play.

Sent from my Android phone using Tapatalk

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PostPosted: 10 Jan 2012, 10:07 
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nathanso wrote:
I'm at the club right now playing with a new sheet of TSP P-1R 1.2 red and no signs of pip breakage after 4hrs hard play.

Sent from my Android phone using Tapatalk


Let us know about sanwei code when you try it. IF you don't like it and don't break a pip on it I may be willing to pay full price for a red sheet if it has sponge 0.5 to 1.0 thick. PM me and I will let you know my blade size. I would like a red sheet or 2, but don't want to order from eacheng till I need more stuff.

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After 9 years of LPs on BH I have gained too much weight and slowed down too much to be a chopper. I have gone to double inverted!

729 HS champ carbon Sword Maze FH/Juic Nanospin II BH (both max)
Double Fish Chen Qi carbon Sword Maze FH/Tenergy 80 BH (both max)


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PostPosted: 10 Jan 2012, 18:15 
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vanjr wrote:
With respect, I suggest that there must be a technique, paddle or some other issue involved. I have to believe 99% of us would not break a single pip on all those sheets if played with regularly for one year-unless we hit the edge of the table. You must hit with your LP VERY hard. Do you have some match video?


I guess I am not in 99% then. If I slack-off in training and play an all-round game with lots of forehand attacks, C8 can last for about 4-6 months (Feint series 2-3 months tops), but if want to get ready for some competition or help my club members to get ready for their competitions and start to play classical/modern defense more for a couple of weeks in a row, C8 lasts 2-3 months tops and Feint series 1 month.

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PostPosted: 10 Jan 2012, 21:42 
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Justas wrote:
vanjr wrote:
With respect, I suggest that there must be a technique, paddle or some other issue involved. I have to believe 99% of us would not break a single pip on all those sheets if played with regularly for one year-unless we hit the edge of the table. You must hit with your LP VERY hard. Do you have some match video?


I guess I am not in 99% then. If I slack-off in training and play an all-round game with lots of forehand attacks, C8 can last for about 4-6 months (Feint series 2-3 months tops), but if want to get ready for some competition or help my club members to get ready for their competitions and start to play classical/modern defense more for a couple of weeks in a row, C8 lasts 2-3 months tops and Feint series 1 month.

I have played with feint 3 only briefly and C8 the same so I am not familiar with how long they last. It is interesting that at our club I only see broken LP in sheets of 2 plus years of age-I will check with out top player who does hit with his LP hard to see if he ever has.

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After 9 years of LPs on BH I have gained too much weight and slowed down too much to be a chopper. I have gone to double inverted!

729 HS champ carbon Sword Maze FH/Juic Nanospin II BH (both max)
Double Fish Chen Qi carbon Sword Maze FH/Tenergy 80 BH (both max)


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