OOAK Table Tennis Forum

It will fall far behind of P1r, which is king of effet beside Grass D.Tecs

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Defense Blade with pimples on one side ...

I noticed that you use P4 - how is that compared to FL3 and P1R ?
I would off course like a easier to use p1r - if such a rubber exists
Soren

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[color=#FF0000]Setup 1: Joola Chen Weixing - Tenergy 05 2.1 red - Tibhar Grass Dtechs Black 0,5
Current rating : 1825.

I don't think it falls far behind. I even don't think it falls behind at all. It's created fir choppers.

It, however, requires a different technique than DTecs/P1-R. I used it in 1.3mm and I couldn't get any backspin out of the ball, except for a couple of times, when I was able to make the pips bend. I suspect the technique to use it effectively approaches the SP technique, especially in the thick versions. Or the blade isn't suited for the FIII.

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I find p1r 0.5 rather easy to use... Might be different with thicker sponge.

Tenergy, you can try all pips available (and it looks like that's what you are doing since a couple of months) and in my humble opinion, you will never find the 'right' pip for you unless you spend enough time with it; unless you learn how to use it properly. If you stay close to the table, choose OX and don't think of sponge anymore. If you mostly chop from distance, go with a thicker sponged Feint or Curl, if you combine the two go for 0.5 sponge. Than stick with it for one season and evaluate it afterwards. You are such a junkie

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i admit it...
but i have learned something along the way, so I am getting closer to what I need.
it will be one of the following :

FL III
P1R
Octopus

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[color=#FF0000]Setup 1: Joola Chen Weixing - Tenergy 05 2.1 red - Tibhar Grass Dtechs Black 0,5
Current rating : 1825.

You dont put FL3 on your paddle if you want "effect"! You use FL3 if you want heavy chop with a lot of spin manipulation.

Ian

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Blade: Giant Dragon Kris: FH: Friengship 729 Judo (red) 2.0 BH: Feint Long 3 (black) 1.3
Blade: Alfa Pro : FH: Friendship Judo (red) 2.0 BH TSP Curl P-1r (black) 1.4

Ian, I think Attacker meant that. If I'm not mistaken, Attacker is from Germany and there effect=spin like in Belgium.

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There's always stuff to improve!

My blog on being a LP defender beyond 2000 USATT and the pips discrimination that comes along with that

Ah-thanks for the translation!

Ian

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Blade: Giant Dragon Kris: FH: Friengship 729 Judo (red) 2.0 BH: Feint Long 3 (black) 1.3
Blade: Alfa Pro : FH: Friendship Judo (red) 2.0 BH TSP Curl P-1r (black) 1.4

I've played them all btw. effet ( french ) = spin.

Max Spin: Grass D.Tecs 1.5
2nd place : P1r 1.5
3 rd place : P4 1.0, FL3 1.0, FL2 1.0, Piranja 1.2,

Nevertheless chops on nonspin balls are best with P4 if you want to generate good backspin.
Currently I play P4 and I enjoy the safety I have with this rubber. But sometimes I miss the max
spin of D.Tecs or P1r.

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Defense Blade with pimples on one side ...

That is the mainpoint!
With FL 3 it is easy to manipulate. Not so with Curl P1r and D Tecs, so they have more underspin at the end.
If your opponent is kindly enough, to serve good topspins, than all is well.
But after some returns into the net they turn to girly-TS.(I bag for pardon to all the ladies here.)
And then the time of FL 3 is there, yuo can generate a flat chop with few underspin (Curl and D Tecs are then without us) or you can attack (that is very heavy to do with Curl and DTecs).
On a soft wood you need less sponge.(here is ment the top veneer)
I tried a Chen Defender wood and FL 3 in 0,5mm, red and it works well.

Sorry to rehash this old thread, but I just wanted to chime in. For me, Feint Long III is incredible!

With the 1.3 butter soft sponge, and the grippiness of the pips, I am finally finding the consistency for which I have been searching.

So far with every long pip I've tried, I have had to try to adjust my game to the pip. Which, conventional wisdom would say is the correct way to go about things. Find a LP with the characteristics you desire, and train your stroke to fit IT. P-1R I could manipulate, but was inconsistent with getting the ball on the table (especially with sponge). With the 1615 OX I was more consistent, but less dangerous. 755, Spinord Zeitgiest, were fine, but didn't match my style of play.

But with the FL3 I have actually found a rubber that fits my game, and more importantly, my stroke. My chopping consistency has instantly improved. Multiball and single ball chopping drills against hard loops are garnering well over 90% while with the P-1R OX I was getting closer to 75%. The 3rd chopped ball with the FL3 isn't as loaded with backspin, but the first ball has WAY more backspin. I win many more points with my chopping, and I can now frustrate some of the better loopers in my club with the ability to just get the ball back on the table. Attacking, due to the grippiness has vastly improved. My coach is very impressed, and he himself tried to talk me out of trying a new rubber.

For the first time since play with LPs, I feel like I can't do better. I have always felt like I was pounding a square peg through a round hole. Now I can truly put the EJ bug to sleep (At Least, on my backhand).

Now, I just need some of my fellow sponged FL3 players to give me some tips and advice on some of this rubber's more obscure attributes.

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I have seen some players create a very dangerous, spinny backspin serve with it. I am sooo very jealous of them!
They serve it back hand, held flat like a plate, and pull through very fast,it creates a surprisingly fast spinny back spin serve-The really good players also have a nothin' ball serve off the same motion-grrr-cant do that one either.....

Ian

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Blade: Giant Dragon Kris: FH: Friengship 729 Judo (red) 2.0 BH: Feint Long 3 (black) 1.3
Blade: Alfa Pro : FH: Friendship Judo (red) 2.0 BH TSP Curl P-1r (black) 1.4

Lorre, what is the difference? You said that you have to bend the pips with Feint 3 to get any backspin on chops; don't you have to do the same with P1r and Dtecs to perform a heavy chop? And if what I said is right, how could there be any difference? Is the angle of the blade? The timing of the chop after ball bounces? Thanks!

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Blade: Victas Koji Matsushita Offensive FL
FH: Victas VS > 401 2.0
BH: Victas Spectol S1 1.5

Rating: Recreational Player

And I want to second a question Yosua asked earlier; would dawei 388d-1 really be a good substitute for FL3? I'm planning to get a sheet 0.7 thickness as colestt if possible; is there also a specific technique to chop heavily with that as well? Or should I just experiment with it?

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Blade: Victas Koji Matsushita Offensive FL
FH: Victas VS > 401 2.0
BH: Victas Spectol S1 1.5

Rating: Recreational Player

I used the Feint III a couple of months ago for one session, just for fun. This time it went much better, capable of producing a lot of backspin. It was against a low leveled opponent, though, but one who uses a bit of spin. You have to do the same with P1-R and DTecs, but the latter one has soft pips and the former one medium hard ones. The difference in my first impression and the one I'm describing now is the speed with which I'm chopping now compared with the speed with which I was chopping then. So using a lot of wrist and daring to do this is the difference.



I never used it, so I can't compare, although I don't think the Dawei has that soft absorbing sponge.

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There's always stuff to improve!

My blog on being a LP defender beyond 2000 USATT and the pips discrimination that comes along with that