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PostPosted: 28 Nov 2013, 00:34 
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LordCope wrote:
Wow ok - I'm getting a "say no to glue sheets" vibe. Interesting.

OK: I'm cool with glue - reassure me that it's not *way* more tricky to glue OX than sponged rubbers?


For many thin LP sheets it IS way more tricky to glue OX than sponge. Indeed I went from OX to sponge LP years ago because it is/was so hard. Some thicker based OX rubbers like Dr. Evil are pretty easy however-but it is not a LP.


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PostPosted: 30 Nov 2013, 17:38 
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It's a pain in the rear to glue OX, though after dozens of times I've gotten good at it. The worst is trying to rub the darn dried glue off the OX sheet if you want to transfer it! On some rubbers, they're so thin, it's pretty much impossible. (Palio CK5310)

I love the glue sheets that come on Butterfly and Nittaku rubbers. TSP glue sheets will pull the whole outer layer of wood off, if you're not careful!

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PostPosted: 30 Nov 2013, 18:43 
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Blade: Tibhar Defence Pus
FH: Bluefire M1 1.8
BH: Hellfire OX
Well I've bitten the bullet and bought a few of the Tibhar Duo glue sheets. I figured I'd give it a try.

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PostPosted: 30 Nov 2013, 18:44 
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I use water base glue on the blade then roll the ox rubber on. So easy, previously I was trying to glue both surfaces and it just was failure every time. You generally cant use the rubber on another blade but most rubber you would use in ox are so cheap you just throw them in the bin. Any that cost a lot are probably good enough to be better with sponge anyway.

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PostPosted: 01 Dec 2013, 16:01 
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I just effed up a sheet of OX dtechs today. I hate gluing OX! :headbang: I spent an hour rolling the old glue off, put the new glue on, blew dry it and half the damn sheet flipped over on top of itself.

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PostPosted: 01 Dec 2013, 16:04 
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Blade: Tibhar Defence Pus
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Oh :( Bad luck.

I attached my Milky Way 955 using a glue sheet, and it was very painless. However I've not played with it yet. Of course this will be the very first time I've ever played OX LP, so I don't have a benchmark around whether the glue sheet impacts performance.

My bigger concern is about removing the rubber afterwards, but I'm quietly hopeful.

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PostPosted: 01 Dec 2013, 16:59 
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josesiem wrote:
It's a pain in the rear to glue OX, though after dozens of times I've gotten good at it. The worst is trying to rub the darn dried glue off the OX sheet if you want to transfer it! On some rubbers, they're so thin, it's pretty much impossible. (Palio CK5310)

I love the glue sheets that come on Butterfly and Nittaku rubbers. TSP glue sheets will pull the whole outer layer of wood off, if you're not careful!

Have you tried this method to glue an OX sheet:
http://tabletennis-reviews.com/gluing-a ... el-new-way

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PostPosted: 01 Dec 2013, 20:15 
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Blade: Tibhar Defence Pus
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haggisv wrote:
Have you tried this method to glue an OX sheet:
http://tabletennis-reviews.com/gluing-a ... el-new-way


I liked the look of that, but my glue is at my brother's house, and I wanted to get the rubber on my bat before tomorrow!

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PostPosted: 29 Dec 2013, 04:55 
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Blade: Tibhar Defence Pus
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LordCope wrote:
haggisv wrote:
Have you tried this method to glue an OX sheet:
http://tabletennis-reviews.com/gluing-a ... el-new-way


I liked the look of that, but my glue is at my brother's house, and I wanted to get the rubber on my bat before tomorrow!


Just used the HaggisV (I think of this as a 'the fifth') method. Very effective!! I struggle with trimming the OX rubber after - I find scissors are the best, but it's still messy.

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PostPosted: 29 Dec 2013, 05:40 
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Blade: Tsp Black Balsa 3.0
FH: t05 1.7boosted
BH: 388d ox
The water based glues that stay on the blade like Geddk suggested are the best way for an ej likeme and in the long run cheaper as well.If your trying out a few different pips its quick and easy to alternate between them and even incorporate different blades into the test at the same time,with some pips there can be some bubbling when first applying and with the glue method it`s easy to take the rubber off and retry,with the gluesheet if it bubbles this is trickier to retry because once it`s on it`s on!also no splintering risk with the glue method,if your moving the pips between blades eventually the gluesheet will lose its stickiness and the pips may come away from the blade when your in the middle of a game :swear:

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PostPosted: 29 Dec 2013, 08:53 
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advantages: easy to stick on; plays like a thin layer of sponge if thats what you like; let it air dry and then glue it on!!!!
difficulties: difficult to peel off but if you air dry it first its easier; plays like a thin layer of sponge lose the true feeling of ox;
btf water chak: ripped up one of my dawei gts when peeling off rubber
gluing on ox lp with rubber cement: don't even consider peeling off old glue from the old oxlp... the old glue makes cementing the lp with the blade easier... apply a thin layer ON BLADE ONLY and air dry it with paper, a thick layer gives bubble gobs that reflect light so you want it very thin even though it may not strongly adhere or even be loose around the edges... edge tape will hold down the flappy edges...

quick method for gluing: thick glue stroke around the blade and push the glue toward the center then place the uncut lp over it, base first, using all fingers to hold the lp in a balanced way..

precise method: cut the lp first, fit over the blade, glue the bottom third, let dry, repeat for the next third; and the final third.

Dont forget to roll out the lp with a roller and put some clean paper on the lp to protect it from roller residue.

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PostPosted: 29 Dec 2013, 12:41 
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mynamenotbob wrote:
The main disadvantage is they destroy blades!!!

Image


It may help if you remove the LP first, then heat the remained glue sheet with a hair dryer before peeling it off.

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PostPosted: 28 Sep 2014, 01:07 
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mynamenotbob wrote:
1. Put the glue on the blade
2. Let become dry to the touch
3. Put the rubber on
4. Put the blade pips down on a table and stick some books on it for 30 minutes

That's it. Very easy. It's important to not put the rubber on wet glue or it will bubble and do weird stuff.


The last time I installed a lp ox I finally used this method and it worked perfectly. Let me add though, that it was P1R which comes with a gluesheet. After peeling off the gluesheet (which weighed only two grams, I'm leaving it on next time) the rubber was probably *exceptionally clean*.

Also, you should probably do something for the label area which might not get pressed because it's lower than the pips. Use a suitable piece of cardboard or redoubled paper towel under there.


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PostPosted: 27 Nov 2017, 23:07 
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Above, I said that I had had success with the "glue on blade only" method, but recently I pulled off one of these that had been installed for a week or so, and I thought the adhesion was marginal. This was a 388D-1 that I had cleaned well.

So, I did my first "waxed paper method" (with WBG on the rubber to make it behave, and rubber cement on the blade (because I don't like putting water on the wood)). It worked perfectly. I attached the label area, then laid the rubber on a can, removed the waxed paper, and gently rolled the rubber down.


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