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PostPosted: 27 Mar 2008, 22:29 
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[img]

7 mm thick. Limba, carbon and balsa. 5 ply.

http://yinhe1986.cn/english/news/27/2008218140958.htm

I've got no more information. What do you think?[/img]

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PostPosted: 28 Mar 2008, 02:30 
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Hey Quelis,

From what I have heard about Balsa blades and LP, it sounds like it would be very good with LP. Foss swears by his TSP Balsaplus with LP on it. It looks a really nice looking blade as well. Very thick balsa component should give it decent speed I would think when combined with the carbon. There was a thread in the Equipment section on this blade called New Galaxy Blades or something like that if you didn't see it. It might have a few more ideas about the blade too. Have you got a price? I think it was said these were going to be in the very upper Galaxy price range (closing in on $100 maybe).

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PostPosted: 28 Mar 2008, 05:03 
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Hi Reb,

Thanks for your answer, it has given me lots of clues about the things I want to add to my first (hurry, hurry) post.

- No doubt that balsa and pips play nicely together (look at my combo below and to a previous thread called "balsa and long pips"). My main concern is carbon and balsa together with pips. A long time ago, I played with Btfy Grubba Carbon All + and Ritc (Friendship) 802-1 short pips on the backhand, for a short period. I had to change to an all wood blade because the vibrations coming from the stiff carbon were so disturbing that I couldn't concentrate in the game.
- Yes, I saw the thread you mention, but I don't remember any mention of long pips and these blades there.
- And I leave the best for the last dish. I can't betray my sources but be prepared for an amazing :shock: price. Just let me say that it's less than the half of the quantity you mention in your post. (A bit more for T10). That's why I'm hesitating so much. If it costed 100$ I wouldn't be wondering at all.

Oh! Limba and balsa must be such a good combination, I'd just like to know what happens if you mix carbon. Too fast? YinHe claims it is a 10 for speed and a 10 for control (ok, ok, we all know that these qualifications are just marketing...). Perhaps we can find a freak like me playing with Btfy Balsa Carbon (5 or 3) and long pips?

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PostPosted: 28 Mar 2008, 07:57 
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quelis wrote:
7 mm thick. Limba, carbon and balsa. 5 ply.
http://yinhe1986.cn/english/news/27/2008218140958.htm


Sounds way too fast for a defensive game. I've got a U-2006 which is only rated 8.5 for speed and I found it quite fast enough.

Think Juic Balsa carbon which is way too fast. Possibly some people play well with long pips on an OFF+ blade, but I think more are deluding themselves that they are playing as well as they could.

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PostPosted: 28 Mar 2008, 08:15 
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Well I don't know Andrew as I am playing LP on my HUrricane King which is OFF++ and I absolutely love the feel of it. I have tried double inverted (which sux for my BH) and SP (which didn't suck as much on my BH) and I've found LP to be a great speed equalizer on it. Now I also have setups on OFF- and ALL blades as well and in comparison the King feels awesome. So I wouldn't write off a fast blade with LP as a defensive setup. I push well with it, I block well with it, and I can also punch block with it. And having the power on the FH side as a modern defender just makes attacking a joy. But thats just my opinion. :D

Quelis, at a price less then $50 ( is it $US?) sounds very reasonable then. About the vibration, I have T-2's and they don't vibrate very much. They do produce a "toink" sound off the hit and I think with balsa this will be amplified, which annoys the heck out of me on a blade I have that's got balsa and carbon in it (LKT Lord of Speed), but its not the vibration as there isn't much in that one either. Don't know if the limba would do much to help this either. I guess thats why I like the HK so much, because it gives power without much noise, just smooth hitting!

Reb.

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S/U 1: Blade: Bty Gergely . FH Black Andro Rasant 2.1 . BH Red Tibhar Grass Dtecs
S/U 2: Blade: Bty Gergely . FH Black Hexer+ 2.1 . BH Red GD Talon
S/U 3: Blade: Bty Gergely . No rubbers...thinking of adding Red Dtecs and Black Rasant
Aussie Table Tennis Shop / Aussie Table Tennis Facebook Page / Equipment Review Index / Read my Reb Report Blog: click here.


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PostPosted: 28 Mar 2008, 08:16 
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We're getting one of those galaxy balsa blades in as well, can't remember which one, either the T10 or T11... I don't think they were cheap either... the T10 is thicker and fast from memory, so the T11 may not be that fast.

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PostPosted: 28 Mar 2008, 09:02 
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RebornTTEvnglist wrote:
Well I don't know Andrew as I am playing LP on my HUrricane King which is OFF++ and I absolutely love the feel of it.
Reb.


You may love the feel of it, I also love the feel of very fast blades but that doesn't mean you aren't missing more shots than you would with a slower blade.

Have you had someone keep track of what shots you miss and why you missed them? Just because you remember the great shots, doesn't mean that you wouldn't get more points with something else.

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Last edited by agooding2 on 28 Mar 2008, 10:36, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: 28 Mar 2008, 09:52 
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I'd have to agree with Andrew here... blocking with a LP on a fast blade against fast loops can be nice, but if you get yourself in a position where you have to play a soft shot or have to chop, it quite hard to control and keep it low... If you can twiddle it may be more viable...

Still there are always exceptions to the rule, and those that CAN handle it, so if it's working for you, then it's not an issue...

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PostPosted: 28 Mar 2008, 18:12 
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Yes Reb USA dollars.

Regarding the issue of fast blades and LP. My trainer (a great chinese player) advised to stick to my current balsa blade precisely because more balls fell in than out. He recognized that my previous blade (a Korbel Magichand) gave good results but it resulted as being not consistent enough. It's a good idea that somebody watches your game objectively from outside, Reb. I do agree that's a good advice from Andrew, as we say here: sometimes trees don't let you see the forest. But at the same time, I recognize myself in Reb words when he explains the need of hitting or just giving more speed to ball from the backhand, or just looping a bit with LP. It's just something that nobody expects from you at the beginning.

Ah! that look of bewilderment in your opponents eyes...

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PostPosted: 28 Mar 2008, 18:18 
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my trainer is saying the same thing - my dotec is great for attacks, but I'm only getting 70 percent of blocks against attacks to my pips back and they are all going long when I fail. Played with a lot of blades and going to a Cayman with sponge on the pips (when TTmaster actually have stocks!!) I'll increase the forehand speed with the stiga booster and I've not lost anything. Re carbon - I tried a butterfly X3 which is balsa carbon and it was very soft - I don't like soft blades, but I guess you need to find out if the carbon blade you are thinking of is hard or soft and if you would like that feel

Julian

quelis wrote:
Yes Reb USA dollars.

Regarding the issue of fast blades and LP. My trainer (a great chinese player) advised to stick to my current balsa blade precisely because more balls fell in than out. He recognized that my previous blade (a Korbel Magichand) gave good results but it resulted as being not consistent enough. It's a good idea that somebody watches your game objectively from outside, Reb. I do agree that's a good advice from Andrew, as we say here: sometimes trees don't let you see the forest. But at the same time, I recognize myself in Reb words when he explains the need of hitting or just giving more speed to ball from the backhand, or just looping a bit with LP. It's just something that nobody expects from you at the beginning.

Ah! that look of bewilderment in your opponents eyes...

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PostPosted: 28 Mar 2008, 18:44 
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Interesting! Can you explain a bit more what do you mean by "soft"? Did you play with long pips or midpips? Blocking near or choping far from the table?

Thanks beforehand

Q.-

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PostPosted: 28 Mar 2008, 21:19 
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OX frictionless blocking on the table. Soft blades feel springy, they have a longer contact time - or tend to - lp work better for me if the contact time is short. I also find for forehand attacks and blocks close to the table I prefer a rigid - stiff - blade. The X3 had a mushy feel. The firewall also has this a little, the neubauer bulldozer I tried was so springy as to be uncontrollable for me on the fh! People prefer different feels for different games. The joo se hyuk is rigid, donic desto v3 soft, both defensive choppers blades

quelis wrote:
Interesting! Can you explain a bit more what do you mean by "soft"? Did you play with long pips or midpips? Blocking near or choping far from the table?

Thanks beforehand

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PostPosted: 28 Mar 2008, 21:34 
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Yes, I've tested the Joo se Hyuk, I know what you mean. The most difficult fact of a blade (apart from size, handle, etc etc ) is finding that middle point between stiff and soft that is just different for everyone.

I think it's worth saying here that Btfy Balsa Carbo X3 is composed of Limba, Carbon and balsa as well.

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PostPosted: 28 Mar 2008, 22:53 
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Andrew,

Did you ever decide to the get the other two JM blades that were a part of the original set of three? No real reason for the question other than a general curiosity.

As to fast blades and long pips. In the days when Frictionless pips were king and Uncle 'erbert was looking for the blade with "ulitimate reversal" Mark Bellamy was doing the prototype work for him.

The blade with the greatest reversal was a 117g super fast blade. I have that blade and it is superb if all one has to do is block with long pips off the backhand, but for me, there was not enough control/touch available on the forehand.

tOD


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PostPosted: 28 Mar 2008, 23:13 
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theOldDuffer wrote:
Andrew,

Did you ever decide to the get the other two JM blades that were a part of the original set of three? No real reason for the question other than a general curiosity.


I'm saving my pennies, the quality is great, the only thing is whether I want to go with a 110g blade as that rules out inverted on the backhand, though short pips on rthe backhand work pretty well for me. I don't really need all three of them, are you interested in one of them?

theOldDuffer wrote:
As to fast blades and long pips. In the days when Frictionless pips were king and Uncle 'erbert was looking for the blade with "ulitimate reversal" Mark Bellamy was doing the prototype work for him.

The blade with the greatest reversal was a 117g super fast blade. I have that blade and it is superb if all one has to do is block with long pips off the backhand, but for me, there was not enough control/touch available on the forehand.

tOD


Interesting, well having seen your game I'd trust you can judge whether something is suitable. I just tend to find a lot of carbon blades bouncy, something I like about the JM blade and the Guo 3C I used before is they are not bouncy as they are so hard and the carbon is under thicker wood.

I had a Japanese penhold balsa core blade (Butterfly Layer Speed-R, 10mm thick, rated 9.7 for speed) and it was great for kills and also had good touch over the table. Couldn't block with it to save my life though, so a slower blade was in order (the Guo 3C) and I'm a short pips hitter.

On the advice of a 2500 level coach (a pips out penholder) I switched to a 7 ply Yasaka Max Wood, but I actually block even better with the JM blade.

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Jack Miller custom Kevlar/carbon Chinese style penhold
Armstrong Attack 3L 40 1.8 red
Nittaku Nodias 1.8 black

Jack Miller custom Kevlar/carbon Chinese style penhold
TSP Spectol Blue 43 hardness 1.5 red
Air Scirocco SN 1.8 black


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