OOAK Table Tennis Forum

I had a month without TT-league, so I tried out some LPs in 1.0mm (red), all on a JSH with a brand new Donic Bluefire JP02 2.0 (black) on FH.

First LP was Donic Akkadi L1 1mm. Played only 15 minutes with it. Simply too fast and a lack of grip. Didn’t like it, could hardly play with it close to the table. Chopping also difficult as I recall it correctly. Simply not what I’m looking for. Never played so short with a rubber.

Second was Joola Octopus 1mm. This rubber is slower than my Donic Spike and Curl P1r. Feels grippier then both. I would say this is the most grippy and slow LP I have tried so far. Playing with it is quite easy, lots of control close to the table, pushing is almost like with inverted, chopping is with a lot of control, attacking goes pretty well because of the great grip. But.. I didn’t win matches with it. People who thought my chops with Spike or P1r were deceptive or carried backspin, said it was quite easy to play against the Octopus, maybe because they had plenty of time to react to it.

Third was DHS Cloud & Fog III 1mm. The pimples bend easily, sponge is softer then Curl P1r, softer than Spike P1 but harder than CurlP4/FLIII. Funny, this rubber has the speed of the Akkadi L1 but the grip of the Octopus . That combination seems to work for me! After an hour of testing, I won against three lightly lower ranked players (~2100 usatt). I think the rubber grips the ball so well because the sponge is softer than what I’m used to, but it isn’t slower (like FLIII).. On the contrary! The short game (esp. pushing backspin, blocking is not the strength of this rubber) is very easy and also lifting the ball and attacking (looping-like movements) are easy. Now, chopping is a challenge when you are used to Curl P1r or Spike P1. Because of the speed, it is almost impossible to get the ball on the table with a long chopping stroke. But when you chop with a short movement (or almost no movement), the ball catapults fast and deep and troubles the opponent. While my chops with Spike P1 were often in the middle area of the table, my chops seem to be deeper now and that could be a good thing.

To be continued! Questions or other experiences are welcome!

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A really good test, I'm reading with interest Pipsy!

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I played one tournament with C&F 1.0 (Spinlord ultra carbon def blade) with little practise. It was quite good and I liked it some ways, but in the end, I did more mistakes in the table game than with my usual set up. It's fastish rubber with Dtecs like feeling.

I think it's a bit of a question of safe against dangerous for me - which is better.

From what I recall, I had a lot more difficulties controling the short game with D'tecs than with C&F. I think C&F has more grip and less catapult than D'tecs.

Played again yesterday and feeling was good, won three out of four matches. I think I will stick to it the first 2-3 league matches and then evaluate again...

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I played with Octopus for a short period of time and C&F III for +-3 years. Both 1.0mm, Octopus red en C&F III black. I can confirm the easiness of playing against Octopus. C&F III is a tamed version of DTecs: a bit slower and a bit grippier. Still a nasty pip to play against. I found it has it's limits in chopping for the amount of BS that can be created. Of course I wasn't as good of chopper then than I am now, so who knows what my ruling would be today.

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My blog on being a LP defender beyond 2000 USATT and the pips discrimination that comes along with that

Maybe you should try it again?
Birding&TT has also ordered a C&FIII...

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I'd try it in the mid season. Now I'm already playing competition again (starting next Tuesday) and I'm very fond of my P1-R.

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There's always stuff to improve!

My blog on being a LP defender beyond 2000 USATT and the pips discrimination that comes along with that

Every dog has its day. Every LP has its burst of fashionability. I wonder how many ooak members are still using Pogo?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Yasaka Sweden Classic | 802 OX | C8 OX
Check out my blog - LordCope's Latest Learning Log - 10+ years of accumulate mistakes!

So is C&FIII like D.tecs in OX?
In what little reading I've done, it's not considered very useful as a pushblock style rubber.

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"When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk."

I have played with both. C&F ox is not like Dtecs ox, because C&F has thick base. C&F ox is quite easy to play, but for me it doesn't give much spin, reversal or disturbance. C&F is for active table plays and maybe bump shots are it's streght.

i agree
cf3 is fast, with low trajectory. but spin reversal or disturbance isnt on level as dtecs has . (ofc comparing both in OX)

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Butterfly Defence II / Victas Curl P1V 0.5mm / Tibhar Evolution MX-P 2.0mm -185g

I was taking about C&F III and DTecs both with sponge.

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There's always stuff to improve!

My blog on being a LP defender beyond 2000 USATT and the pips discrimination that comes along with that

Thanks everyone on letting me know the differences in ox.
This last year there was a video of a NA Tournament with a chopper who us d c&f III very effectively especially with pushes and bumps on service returns.

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"When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk."

Jian Li

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Butterfly Defence II / Victas Curl P1V 0.5mm / Tibhar Evolution MX-P 2.0mm -185g

Thanks for the reference! From the strokes he does and the service reception, it seems to me that he uses OX

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