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PostPosted: 04 Jan 2017, 06:19 
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Kees wrote:
5hark wrote:
I'm really impressed, great topic.
So, i want to try short pips on both sides of clipper. What cheap short pips should i try: 802, 802-40, etc...and what thickness should i use?
Regards.


I would suggest 802-40 on both sides (2.2mm on the forehand, 2.0 mm on the backhand). The Clipper is fast, so you would need some grip to be able to control the ball well. 802-1 in 2.0/2.2 mm on both sides would work too, but be more difficult to control. 802 would be quite difficult.


I agree with Kees. I played 802, 802-1 and Spinlord Degu, which is similar to 802-40.
802-1 in 2,0 on BH and 802-40 FH would be a good combination too. You could try both Rubbers and it´s more difficult for your opponent because he get´s (slightly) different spin from either side.

Greetings Claus


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PostPosted: 04 Jan 2017, 06:25 
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Blade: Clipper CR
FH: Yinhe Moon Speed Soft
BH: Yinhe Moon Speed Soft
Thanks guys!
I think i'll try both: 802 and 802-40 in 2mm or max.
802-40 would be first.


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PostPosted: 04 Jan 2017, 06:39 
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5hark wrote:
Thanks guys!
I think i'll try both: 802 and 802-40 in 2mm or max.
802-40 would be first.


802 is difficult to play. It doesn´t generate much spin on your hard blade (nearly no spin at all).
Because of that you don´t have much controll and must hit the ball exactly right.
Try 802-1 instead. It´s between 802 and 802-40 in sponge hardness. Quite good on backhand.

Greetings Claus


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PostPosted: 04 Jan 2017, 07:18 
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Blade: Clipper CR
FH: Yinhe Moon Speed Soft
BH: Yinhe Moon Speed Soft
ClausTrophobie wrote:
802 is difficult to play. It doesn´t generate much spin on your hard blade (nearly no spin at all).
Because of that you don´t have much controll and must hit the ball exactly right.
Try 802-1 instead. It´s between 802 and 802-40 in sponge hardness. Quite good on backhand.

Greetings Claus

So I'll try 802-40.
Thx Claus. ;)


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PostPosted: 04 Jan 2017, 10:26 
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ClausTrophobie wrote:
802 is difficult to play. It doesn´t generate much spin on your hard blade (nearly no spin at all).
Because of that you don´t have much controll and must hit the ball exactly right.


I disagree. I find 802 one of the most controllable SPs. It doesn't generate as much spin as 802-40 (I've not used 802-1), but I prefer it for hitting. 802-40 is almost inverted in its properties. If you're coming from inverted, it's a good gateway SP, I guess, but for me it lacks certain classic SP qualities, which is why I suggested 802.

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PostPosted: 04 Jan 2017, 15:34 
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ClausTrophobie wrote:
5hark wrote:
Thanks guys!
I think i'll try both: 802 and 802-40 in 2mm or max.
802-40 would be first.


802 is difficult to play. It doesn´t generate much spin on your hard blade (nearly no spin at all).
Because of that you don´t have much controll and must hit the ball exactly right.
Try 802-1 instead. It´s between 802 and 802-40 in sponge hardness. Quite good on backhand.

Greetings Claus


Same observation here. In my wood blade, I have to mind my racket angle because of 802's high throw. And blocks that go wild with 802 are awesome with 802-1. Even counterdriving is easy with 802-1. In my tests, 802 is hard to play. Perhaps it's because 802 is spinnier? Now, I don't really have much experience with SPs (only 3 tried so far) but you can really tell the difference between 802 and 802-1. But both have the same speed.

I have the 802-1 in 2.2mm in the forehand. When I twiddle, I play 802-1 in the backhand like an inverted - racket closed.

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PostPosted: 04 Jan 2017, 20:53 
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Lol, i like this argue! :)


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PostPosted: 05 Jan 2017, 07:54 
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It shows how personal things are. I've used 802 and 802-40 on a P700 which is very similar to a clipper, and I currently use it on a slightly softer 7 ply blade.

I've tried a lot of SP. Overall I find 802 to be super reliable. Does everything well, cheap as chips, and feels great. I prefer it over -40, but that's just a personal thing. I'm just saying that in my experience it's not especially hard to control compared to, say, 651 or 652.

I might revisit 802-40 out of interest, though.


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PostPosted: 05 Jan 2017, 11:47 
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LordCope wrote:
It shows how personal things are.


Amen to that.

Much experienced players may find the 802 easy to play, though.

If I may add something I remember about the said rubbers' spin. When hitting (or trying to do a slow loop.. I don't know how it's called) balls that have dropped near table level, the 802 is better. You can feel the topsheet gripping the ball giving it enough spin, while the 802-1 topsheet seem hard and stiff. (I must add that that stroke engages the sponge)

Yes, it all boils down to personal preference in the end.

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PostPosted: 24 Jan 2017, 23:30 
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Blade: Avalox C555 PH
FH: FS 802-1 1,8 mm
BH: Mark V GPS 1,8 mm
I have an Avalox C555 Ma Wenge and already tested TSP Spectol and FS 802-1 (both in 1.8mm).
Both were not so easy to control like expected because I needed to hit the ball in a quite perfect angle.

After reading this great thread I think a spinnier rubber would help, like the 802-40.
Did dit a lot of inquiry and came to Stiga Clippa rubber (1.8mm) that should be as spinny (?) as the 802-40 and want to give it a try.
What do you think of this combination: C555 and Clippa?


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PostPosted: 25 Jan 2017, 10:30 
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Tough way to play. No margin for error. That is why there has only been one Johnny Huang.

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2.2 mm Nexy Karis M on FH and BH


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PostPosted: 29 Jan 2017, 07:02 
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Kees wrote:
A 7-ply, consisting either of 7 layers of wood or of 5 layers wood and 2 synthetic layers that make the blade more rigid, is best, even for ALL+ blades.


I tested the Stiga Clipper, but it seemed to be a little too fast for me.
Does anyone have recommendations for a 7-ply all wood blade which plays ALL+/OFF-?


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PostPosted: 29 Jan 2017, 21:18 
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Blade: Clipper CR
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Jimbotbs wrote:
I tested the Stiga Clipper, but it seemed to be a little too fast for me.
Does anyone have recommendations for a 7-ply all wood blade which plays ALL+/OFF-?

Donic Persson Powerplay? What pips did you try on clipper?


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PostPosted: 29 Jan 2017, 22:18 
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5hark wrote:
What pips did you try on clipper?


Friendship 563 in 2.0mm. Technically it is a medium pimple but I think it plays more like a short pimple than a long pimple,


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PostPosted: 30 Jan 2017, 02:40 
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Kees wrote:
ON REVIVING THE CLASSIC PIPS-OUT STYLE – FOR SHAKE-HANDERS.


Choosing a blade you should keep in mind that the fastest blades now available have been developed for use with inverted rubbers; they are not for pips-out attackers.... Despite the required rigidity of the blade, its feel should be rather soft. Carbon in a blade can therefore be a problem, because it makes the blade very hard and the dwell-time very low; the latter may compromise control. But relatively soft carbon layers (arylate, kevlar) are fine. Also, if the outer wooden plies are relatively soft or thick, this may compensate the hardness of the carbon. One of the best kind of carbon blades, though, is the one with outer plies which have been made firmer by "weaving" thin carbon rods through them, instead of adding carbon as a ply (this is done, for instance, in the Sword V8).


Kees, thank you for your excellent opening post. In the past, you have recommended the 729 Red Spirit which I bought and used with Spectol on the backhand. Overtime though I gravitate back to my Andro SuperCore Carbon Light Off+ blade because I like it's feel but I struggle to balance the needs of a SP on the backhand side and inverted on the FH. At the moment I'm using Hurricane 8 on the FH and 802-40 (1.8mm) on the backhand. The Hurricane with it's hard sponge plays much slower on this blade than it did on my TSP balsa 6.5 but I don't like the TSP with SP's.

You mention the Sword V8. I've researched this blade and at the price it's being sold (cheap :) ) I was intending to treat myself to one to see how it coped with a combination of SP's and inverted but I can only find the Penhold version on Aliexpress. Everywhere seems to have sold out of the shakehand version. Is there an alternative to this blade that you know of, one that will accommodate a SP and inverted rubber?

Thanks

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