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Yasaka Cobalt vs. A-1.2 and 802 OX
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Author:  SeniorRecPlayer [ 22 Jul 2014, 03:03 ]
Post subject:  Yasaka Cobalt vs. A-1.2 and 802 OX
I'm currently trying to decide between 2 different rackets, both playing Yasaka Original 1.0 FH and SP BH (A-1.2 and 802 OX). I'm considering Yasaka Cobalt for one of the rackets, but wondering if anyone can give me some idea of how it plays compared to either or both A-1.2 or 802 OX. Depending on who I'm playing, I flat hit (small amount of topspin) or block both sides and my BH flip gets me a lot of winners. It's becoming my best weapon if I'm playing well on that particular day. I've tried various spinier or faster rubbers, but I get more points on control than winners.
Author:  abdulmuhsee [ 22 Jul 2014, 07:26 ]
Post subject:  Re: Yasaka Cobalt vs. A-1.2 and 802 OX
The difference between Yasaka Cobalt, Yasaka A-1, and Yasaka A-2:

Cobalt: Pure, thick rubber with medium-length pips.
A-1: Linen backing with medium-length pips.
A-2: Linen backing with short pips.

Also, I believe that all "Yasaka A-1.2" sold in the U.S. is the A-1 version; you have to go to TT-Japan.net to get the A-2 version, and there is definitely a difference between the two.

802 OX has significantly wider pips than the aforementioned three and more spin. It won't be nearly as good on the block, but it should be good on the attack.
Author:  SeniorRecPlayer [ 22 Jul 2014, 07:47 ]
Post subject:  Re: Yasaka Cobalt vs. A-1.2 and 802 OX
abdulmuhsee wrote:
The difference between Yasaka Cobalt, Yasaka A-1, and Yasaka A-2:

Cobalt: Pure, thick rubber with medium-length pips.
A-1: Linen backing with medium-length pips.
A-2: Linen backing with short pips.

Also, I believe that all "Yasaka A-1.2" sold in the U.S. is the A-1 version; you have to go to TT-Japan.net to get the A-2 version, and there is definitely a difference between the two.

802 OX has significantly wider pips than the aforementioned three and more spin. It won't be nearly as good on the block, but it should be good on the attack.


Thank you. I hadn't looked at the A-1.2 carefully before, but I just looked. It is the A-1 version and the pips are definitely longer and thinner than 802. I thought that all A-1.2 were SP.
Author:  SeniorRecPlayer [ 22 Jul 2014, 08:25 ]
Post subject:  Re: Yasaka Cobalt vs. A-1.2 and 802 OX
How much could I expect Cobalt to be different from A-1.2 A-1, other than the speed, spin and control ratings on Megaspin?
Author:  abdulmuhsee [ 26 Jul 2014, 13:49 ]
Post subject:  Re: Yasaka Cobalt vs. A-1.2 and 802 OX
SeniorRecPlayer wrote:
How much could I expect Cobalt to be different from A-1.2 A-1, other than the speed, spin and control ratings on Megaspin?


Well, Cobalt also has two versions, just like A-1.2; there's Cobalt X-1 and X-2. Yasaka sure does like to make things confusing :-).

X-1 has the longest pips of all Yasaka's hardbat rubbers at 1.4mm (A-1 is 1.2mm), and X-2 has short pips at 1.0mm. Since Cobalt has a thick rubber base instead of a linen backing, I would expect it to be bouncier, and Yasaka's own ratings for their rubbers lists it as being slightly faster and spinnier than A-1.2.

If you get Cobalt, make sure to ask whoever you buy it from if it's the X-1 or X-2 version, which should be visible on the rubber through the packaging.
Author:  SeniorRecPlayer [ 26 Jul 2014, 20:22 ]
Post subject:  Re: Yasaka Cobalt vs. A-1.2 and 802 OX
abdulmuhsee wrote:
SeniorRecPlayer wrote:
How much could I expect Cobalt to be different from A-1.2 A-1, other than the speed, spin and control ratings on Megaspin?


Well, Cobalt also has two versions, just like A-1.2; there's Cobalt X-1 and X-2. Yasaka sure does like to make things confusing :-).

X-1 has the longest pips of all Yasaka's hardbat rubbers at 1.4mm (A-1 is 1.2mm), and X-2 has short pips at 1.0mm. Since Cobalt has a thick rubber base instead of a linen backing, I would expect it to be bouncier, and Yasaka's own ratings for their rubbers lists it as being slightly faster and spinnier than A-1.2.

If you get Cobalt, make sure to ask whoever you buy it from if it's the X-1 or X-2 version, which should be visible on the rubber through the packaging.


Thanks for all the info. I think I'm going to stick with the A-1.2 A-1 on the BH of my anatomic Sweden Classic. After switching from Yasaka Original to 802 1.5 on the FH I played pretty well with it at the senior center yesterday. Not as many winners as with the SawTec and 802 2.0 both sides, but much less balls into the net or long. If I do end up trying the Cobalt, I'm not sure which one I would rather try. Probably the X-1 version if I can get that one.
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