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PostPosted: 17 Oct 2014, 21:23 
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funkVfunk wrote:
Johnny1996 wrote:
my combination is Winning np1+ green sponge (same set up with jiang jialiang). have not test yet and will test soon. suppose quite good feeling.

if u interest in this combination, I can assist.

below is my past set up. left is np8 raw pips. right is np1 cooked pips.


I am a long time user of NP-8, 30 degree sponge. What is the sponge hardness of the green sponge ? Also, I never used NP-1. How does it compare to NP-8 ?

there's no specified hardness. it is not too hard and suitable for SP. NP1 is more controllable, spinner. the throw of NP8 is straight.


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PostPosted: 17 Oct 2014, 21:27 
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bbkon wrote:
Johnny1996 wrote:
my combination is Winning np1+ green sponge (same set up with jiang jialiang). have not test yet and will test soon. suppose quite good feeling.

if u interest in this combination, I can assist.

below is my past set up. left is np8 raw pips. right is np1 cooked pips.




I would like to try the green sponge how can i get it?.whats the properties of np1?

the metal voice of this green sponge is very loud even no booster is used. Np1 is similar to tsp super spinpips.

if u want to buy, pls pm me.


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PostPosted: 14 Jan 2015, 12:52 
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epictetus wrote:
kees: I'll second your thoughts based on about 15 hours with the Nittaku seamed Chinese ball (it may change whenever they start selling the Premium Nittaku in the U.S.). The most successful tactics against power loopers has been in/out and, when possible, lp blocks cutting the diagonal. Diagonal cuts on the lp block have been devastating particularly when preceded by a sp attack long. When I need points, short serves-- to be returned to fh short pips-- are followed by a sp long attack and then the lp block at the angle. Suspect that, as usual, opponents will adapt to these tactics but have been surprised by the better-players-than-I having more problems adjusting. Am trying to journey to a 40+ tournament to confirm whether or not 2100+ players are making any adjustments (suspect not).

On the equipment side, my experience has been to stay with the 802-40, (2.2 and 2.0) discarding 802s, etc. Interestingly, was in contact with Cole Ely on the subject and he recommended trying an old Scirrocco inverted that was slower. In all cases with inverteds, however, the close to table tactics were more effective with the 802-40 than with any inverted combination. On the long pips side, have surprisingly found that my previous Cropcircles OX (the old preference of Richard McAfee) are better than my Pogo OX. Interestingly, McAfee had mentioned in some post that the CC OX required active hands, ie. passive blocks were not its strength, and, for some (at the moment) inexplicable reason am finding more control with CC than Pogo. Perhaps it's the "new" rubber placebo effect or perhaps my backhand stroke just suits this hard ball better with CC. Don't know.

Finally, as abovementioned, this may all be for naught as the Premium Nittaku or improved quality control poly balls may bring the 40+ to a closer imitation of the celluloid ball. We'll see. (Glad you're back)


why do you think 802 must be discarded for polyball? also stiff blades like clipper?


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PostPosted: 14 Jan 2015, 22:29 
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Hmm. A few things have changed since the post. The Nittaku (Japan) seamed and XSF seamless polyballs are closer to celluloid than the infamous Nittaku (Chinese) seamed polyball mentioned in that post. As a result, the spin, trajectory and subsequent bounce are less of a factor v.a.v. celluloid. As a result, the 802-40 and 802 should have the same characteristics they had with celluloid.

The original post preferred the 802-40 over the 802 because its slightly spinnier parameter would neutralize/benefit the early model polyballs. With the new balls, if you like the 802 for your style game, would just continue with it.

On the issue of stiff, hard blades, that continues to be a fascinating subject for another thread. Have played with Gergely, t-2, clipper (both Stiga and HRT), with the first two being much harder/stiffer than the clipper. Quite honestly, I loved playing sp/lp with them BUT it was because I felt I had more control over the bh/lp reaction. With lower level players, the lp reversal and lp speed made winning matches quite easy. My problem was with the forehand as short pips kept going over the opposite edge if the blade angle or time pressure didn't set up the right stroke conditions. As a close-to-table player, this issue of time becomes a major factor. Secondly, opponents that were 1-2 levels higher had absolutely no problems with the lp and, in fact, from mid-distance, just keyed on the slowing ball with loops that were successful. Am now using combo blade (Titan) that fits my match tactics better but, if I remember correctly, great pip players, like Shuja Jafar, use and have used Clipper type blades. My substitute blade, the Donic Epox Control, has similar playing characteristics to the Clipper (but again, it's never used against higher ranked opponents). Hope this helps.


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