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PostPosted: 23 Jan 2017, 16:23 
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LordCope wrote:
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It is not fine, it says out!! Check again the description in the link


That simply means pimples out.


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oops, seems you are right...I didn't noticed that!!! I was pretty sure because I heard that from someone else!! Sorry for the inconvenience!


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PostPosted: 23 Jan 2017, 16:32 
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meltinpot wrote:
oops, seems you are right...Sorry for the inconvenience!


Not at all :)


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PostPosted: 23 Jan 2017, 17:28 
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Hi Guys,

Thanks for your input. I fell badly at one of my home venues trying to recover from running around my backhand to attack with my forehand. While playing against a good veteran last Monday I felt my knee almost give way while again stretching for a return to my forehand after I had moved wide to my backhand to hit with my forehand.

An old soccer injury to my right knee gives me less mobility therefore than I should have although I am quick on my feet. Twiddling is an option I was going to explore when I got a new blade recently but I put Hellfire on it instead of DTecS and didn't like Hellfire at all!

I won't try the short pip route until the end of the season as I need those cheap points I get against lesser players with my DTecS.

I don't tend to chop so won't miss the LPs in that respect but return of serve will be the big problem. I would need a lot of sponge under a long pip to attack. I have never been able to hit with MPs let alone LPs but I might think about FL 2 or 3 or the attack version of Feint.

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PostPosted: 23 Jan 2017, 18:23 
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Bulldog wrote:
I would need a lot of sponge under a long pip to attack. I have never been able to hit with MPs let alone LPs but I might think about FL 2 or 3 or the attack version of Feint.


I used 1.3mm FL3. Against the robot, with very little adjustment I could play pretty close to regular FH or BH strokes. In knock about matches I transferred this to points, but under pressure I wasn't confident enough to try.

I don't have any experience with FL2.

Feint AG is supposed to be absolutely perfect for attacking shots. A fellow whose opinion and skills I rate says so anyway. But I've not used it.


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 Post subject: Blade for short pimple?
PostPosted: 23 Jan 2017, 18:43 
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Bulldog wrote:
I fell badly at one of my home venues trying to recover from running around my backhand to attack with my forehand. While playing against a good veteran last Monday I felt my knee almost give way while again stretching for a return to my forehand after I had moved wide to my backhand to hit with my forehand.


Of course you do need to get back quickly, but you also need to be careful where you place your shot. You absolutely cannot play the ball across court. That's just a free point. No matter how fast you are, a quick punch/block down the line is an odds on winner.

No, you must make the other player move. The simplest option is straight down the line. The return you'll get from that is likely to be to the middle of the table, which you can then try to place back in the other corner.

Alternatively, aim at their hip/elbow. They won't be able to block from there very easily. This is riskier because the margin for error is smaller. A few inches wrong and you're back in easy shot territory.

The final option, which is great if you have an accurate and spinny loop, is a short and spinny loop aimed to go off the table to the right, short and wide. This is often an outright winner, or at least gets a lunged block to the middle which you can put away to the other corner, while the opponent is still off balance.

All this serves to show that above all else, if you can think, and place the ball precisely, you have a huge advantage.

When I play my coach, he beats me just by playing the ball to the most difficult place. He never plays a powerful shot, and never needs to load up spin. He just watches where I am, where my balance is, makes a quick tactical decision, and places the ball there. I've seen him do exactly that against top local league players, and beat them easily. Control and accuracy is much underrated.


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PostPosted: 24 Jan 2017, 02:52 
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Great insight. I normally play an inside out forehand drive which of course begs for a backhand block from my opponent down the line!

Feint AG is the Feint rubber I was struggling to remember.

Return to action tomorrow evening against the Division 1 leaders two of whom I used to beat on a regular basis. I will try the tactics you have suggested and hope the floor is less treacherous than usual!

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PostPosted: 26 Jan 2017, 09:54 
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I have decided after a lot of thinking to put the pips on the forehand of one of my Tibhar Stratus Powerdefense blades and use my forehand drive to good effect. I might try twiddling which might be easier for me than with fast inverted.

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PostPosted: 19 Dec 2017, 09:25 
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a 5 year old clipper will be better than a new clipper unless the new one is hand picked . a blade is not a smartphone


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PostPosted: 19 Dec 2017, 19:10 
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Blade: Avalox P500
FH: Xiom Vega Azia DF 2.0
BH: Palio CK531A OX
Best blade for short pips, i am using OX PALIO CK 531A is AVALOX P500, 5 ply wod ! rated Off - , OFF.
Enough speed for backside, and good control for OX pips.
My pips are attached to blade with sticky foil for OX pips.

mby somene will try this set up !


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PostPosted: 20 Dec 2017, 11:24 
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Zole000 wrote:
Best blade for short pips, i am using OX PALIO CK 531A is AVALOX P500, 5 ply wod ! rated Off - , OFF.
Enough speed for backside, and good control for OX pips.
My pips are attached to blade with sticky foil for OX pips.

mby somene will try this set up !

that's a long pimple

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PostPosted: 20 Dec 2017, 11:41 
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imho, blade with hard feel and hard outer layer such as walnut, wenge, or rosewood would match with short pips..e.g- stiga intensity carbon (walnut), yasaka extra special(walnut) or yasaka ma lin offensive 7(wenge).

i'm using nittaku flyatt carbon pro for sp bh, it has hard outer layer (can't figure which type of wood).

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