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PostPosted: 23 Mar 2009, 00:37 
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Count Darkula
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Blade: Bty Gergely T5000
FH: TSP Regalis Blue Max
BH: Tibhar Grass Dtecs
Brab, congrats on putting one foot in the grav....um, the shadows! :twisted: :lol: :lol:

I don't think you should consider it a flirt, but a precursor to a much darker place! Hopefully you will find the light will soon be hurting your eyes. It is the reason I keep my inverted on my FH as I need my eyes fully open for a FH shots, but when the FH is full on in my eyes, I can hit my BH's with a squint! :wink: 8) 8) :lol: :lol:

Oh and I agree with Silver. While the Yinhe blades are fairly good value for money, there is only one of them I have used that I really quite like the feel of now...and that's the all-wood W6. The T-8 with its softer arylate isn't bad, but the rest of them pale in comparison to the feel of the Donic blades. I haven't used a Septear, but I've read enough on it to believe it would be better than most the YinHe's (I haven't tried all of them, not quite lol).

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I'm always in the dark, but the Dark sheds lights upon everything!! :twisted: Beauty is only pimple deep! Beauty is in the eye of the pipholder!
S/U 1: Blade: Bty Gergely . FH Black Andro Rasant 2.1 . BH Red Tibhar Grass Dtecs
S/U 2: Blade: Bty Gergely . FH Black Hexer+ 2.1 . BH Red GD Talon
S/U 3: Blade: Bty Gergely . No rubbers...thinking of adding Red Dtecs and Black Rasant
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PostPosted: 23 Mar 2009, 01:18 
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The Artist
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Thanks, Reb :)
Now show me the way around here. It seems to be a slippery slope and the dusky light really doesn't help ;)

Yeah, I will stick with my Septear. I really like it and my question about it was a bit misunderstood. It wasn't about me wanting a new Yin He, it was about whether or not the Septear would be OK to plays SP with. In case the Septear wasn't up to it, my question was if there would have been a suitable Yin He to buy then :)

If I didn't suffer the effects of our excellent banking system's stability and solid performance I would buy a Avalo Taishi cpen instead. :)

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PostPosted: 23 Mar 2009, 01:56 
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which yinhe blade would be good for SP cpen?


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PostPosted: 23 Mar 2009, 07:52 
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I don't know for sure, bbkon, but I suspect the M6 to be a decent choice. But let's see what the SP senseis have to say about this :)

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NITTAKU SEPTEAR cpen | FH: 729 802, 1.5, black | RPB: CORNILLEAU PILOT POWER, 2.0, red
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PostPosted: 23 Mar 2009, 14:17 
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Count Darkula
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Blade: Bty Gergely T5000
FH: TSP Regalis Blue Max
BH: Tibhar Grass Dtecs
brabhamista wrote:
Thanks, Reb :)
Now show me the way around here. It seems to be a slippery slope and the dusky light really doesn't help ;)


Well my vision is still not so good in the dusky light I prefer Pitch Black :lol: :lol: But let's see if I can help. Click on shopping cart on any TT online shop and add MilkyWay Neptune! That will help guide the way better. :wink: :lol: :lol:

As for C-Pen blade questions, better asked in the new C-Pen section I think. More likely to get response. Probably a good idea to give some detail about how you play though BBkon. Will help shape advice.

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I'm always in the dark, but the Dark sheds lights upon everything!! :twisted: Beauty is only pimple deep! Beauty is in the eye of the pipholder!
S/U 1: Blade: Bty Gergely . FH Black Andro Rasant 2.1 . BH Red Tibhar Grass Dtecs
S/U 2: Blade: Bty Gergely . FH Black Hexer+ 2.1 . BH Red GD Talon
S/U 3: Blade: Bty Gergely . No rubbers...thinking of adding Red Dtecs and Black Rasant
Aussie Table Tennis Shop / Aussie Table Tennis Facebook Page / Equipment Review Index / Read my Reb Report Blog: click here.


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PostPosted: 24 Mar 2009, 00:33 
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brabhamista wrote:
I don't know for sure, bbkon, but I suspect the M6 to be a decent choice. But let's see what the SP senseis have to say about this :)


Makes sense to me. The W6 is too flexible and the U-2006 too light.

I'm considering trying the M5, like the M6 but heavier.

I haven't tried their carbon blades.

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Spinlord Keiler II 1.5 black
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729 all around blade
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PostPosted: 02 Apr 2009, 20:47 
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OK, so I took my first few rickety steps with SP last night. Only had an hour and a bit to spare, so it was more like a brief taster. I didn't play any matches, just hit with my GF and a looper.

I used 802-1 1.8mm HRS last night and will stick with it for a while. I also have a 802-40 1.5mm Super Soft which I will try at a later point.

It is hard as well as foolish to make any form of judgement after such a short time, but I will give some observations as to how it felt. In general, the current results were as promising as they were detrimental :wink:

The immediately good: my trad penhold BH block felt relaxed and controlled. It has actually never felt anything like that solid before, but now it was there and natural. BH punching felt equally good and I can see how lethal a weapon it is with more practise.

Forehand blocking also worked surprisingly well, as did pushes.

Mentally it was not at all a weird feeling, but rather a non-feeling by which I mean it had a basic element of the expected and natural.

The immediately bad: Flicks really did not work at all. Every single one I put in the net, so obviously I need to correct and work on the movement.

Forehand smashes worked OK-ish, but the blade angle is wrong most of the time. I tried to focus on it, but as soon as I lost focus I was back in inverted mode and the ball sitting in the net.

Serves were not especially spinny.

I am not worried about these things though. I know it is possible to do and I will learn in time. Now I await the next training session :)

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PostPosted: 04 Apr 2009, 02:30 
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brabhamista wrote:

Serves were not especially spinny.

I am not worried about these things though. I know it is possible to do and I will learn in time. Now I await the next training session :)


You can still make spinny serves. I know because I can do it with my Spectol.

Its a matter of technique and you will learn in due time.

It will take some time but be patient and you will adjust after a few months.

Don't give up. I tried SP on BH 6 years ago but gave up soon because I expected immediate results and was probably just covering up for poor technique.

A complete conversion to all SP play last year was successful because I was determined to practice and learn the techniques.

In addition, it was really great to be one of the two only all pips shakehand player among the 5 clubs I had visited. The other all SP player (using thin sponge 802 pips) is really skilled and gives the best players in the club a tough time. His technique looks deceptively simple but his consistency in rolling the ball and smashing equally well on both FH and BH (when combined with the pips effect on the ball) confounds most good players.

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PostPosted: 04 Apr 2009, 15:02 
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Two things.

My flick on my BH (short pips) side is now one of my best shots, and it will be for you to if you use the right technique. Simply open your paddle angle a lot more than you have been doing, and other than that it is pretty much the same stroke as with inverted.

On serves, what is important is not the amount of spin, it is the deceptiveness of the spin (either more or less spin than it looks like). Short pips can be devastating for that. And you can get quite a lot if spin -- importantly, when it does not look like so much spin. Two of the best servers in my club are penholders who use short pips. It can be very very tricky to read.

I suspect you may find 802-40 easier to use than the 802-1, at least at first.

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PostPosted: 10 Apr 2009, 02:50 
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agooding2 wrote:
Quote:
I haven't tried their carbon blades.

I did. T-11. It is a balsa-core blade, very lightweight (about 64 grams), with surprisingly good dwelling time, but hard as a rock; also, the top-layer is very thin and very fragile, probably partly because the carbon underneath it is so very hard. Generally, I dislike carbon for pips. But I am still trying to work out its qualities compared to DHS PF4 032 and Friendship Hinoki, which are (to me) top-rate blades. I guess you would prefer the heavier DHS blade, Andrew. I tend to go for the uncomplicated Friendship. But I'm not sure. When I am, I'll report back...

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PostPosted: 10 Apr 2009, 05:39 
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Kees wrote:
agooding2 wrote:
Quote:
I haven't tried their carbon blades.

I did. T-11. It is a balsa-core blade, very lightweight (about 64 grams), with surprisingly good dwelling time, but hard as a rock; also, the top-layer is very thin and very fragile, probably partly because the carbon underneath it is so very hard. Generally, I dislike carbon for pips. But I am still trying to work out its qualities compared to DHS PF4 032 and Friendship Hinoki, which are (to me) top-rate blades. I guess you would prefer the heavier DHS blade, Andrew. I tend to go for the uncomplicated Friendship. But I'm not sure. When I am, I'll report back...


Yeah, I like my very heavy handmade carbon blade.

I used to use the Butterfly Layer Speed-R which was a 10 mm balsa core and worked very well for pips, but was a little bit light. Some Butterfly Power Tape solved that problem and it worked very well for single sided J/K short pips play. Not sure I've ever played with a faster blade and it had no carbon, just a very hard wood layer underneath a thin top ply.

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-- Andrew

Spintech All Around Penhold blade
Spinlord Keiler II 1.5 black
Nittaku FastArc G1 red

729 all around blade
Tibhar Grass D-Tec S Red
Nittaku FastArc G1 black


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