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 Post subject: Fast blade and defense
PostPosted: 16 Sep 2012, 18:52 
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Is it possible to defend like joo se hyuk and chop the smashes and loops like he does using a fast blade with inverted rubber?? or can i use long pips with a fast blade such as donic persson carbotec or nearby blade with carbon in it???

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PostPosted: 16 Sep 2012, 20:15 
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welcome to the forum,shivam1602 !

i know nothing about long pips but chopping & blocking with inverted rubbers can be done with fast blades too! it surely demands good feeling of the ball and good control which comes with time & practice. i'm no joo se hyuk, probably quite far from his level, but my game includes a lot of chopping and blocking along with looping punching and hitting(kind of an allround style,i guess.), and i always used fast blades & rubbers for that-blades: boll tricarbon, amultart, M. Maze off, yinhe t-4, xiom zetro quad and more. rubbers:tenergy 64/05, hexer, hexer hd, palio thor's, palio blit'z just to name some.

With all modesty I can say that i'm pretty successful with my defensive shots using these blades & rubbers combos.
good luck!


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PostPosted: 17 Sep 2012, 08:13 
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Panagiotis Gionis uses Butterfly Petr Korbel and Joo used it too (don't know about now)..

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PostPosted: 17 Sep 2012, 08:41 
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YosuaYosan wrote:
Panagiotis Gionis uses Butterfly Petr Korbel and Joo used it too (don't know about now)..

Rerportedly Joo Se Hyuk uses a Butterfly Diode or a custom blade with a similar construction.

I used to play modern defense with a regular blade (Yasaka Extra), but after changing to a defensive (slightly oversized) blade, I've come to realize that the enormous sweet spot is almost necessary for the consistency needed for chops. It gives you a much larger margin of error on your contact point (and unless you're a very high level, timing your chops perfectly so the ball always contacts dead center in the blade is all but impossible). I'm not saying chopping can't be done with a regular size blade. Speed isn't really the issue, since you can always compensate for that by simply taking the ball farther back. I just happen to think that it's worth getting used to an oversized blade, and generally even the fastest oversized ones are middling in terms of speed. If you're playing a mixed attack/defense game, you should be using medium-thin sponged rubber anyway, so that helps offset the difference in weight.

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PostPosted: 17 Sep 2012, 14:39 
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QuickDraw wrote:
YosuaYosan wrote:
Panagiotis Gionis uses Butterfly Petr Korbel and Joo used it too (don't know about now)..

Rerportedly Joo Se Hyuk uses a Butterfly Diode or a custom blade with a similar construction.


Joo USED Petr Korbel, Sir.
But I don't know what blade he is using atm.

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PostPosted: 17 Sep 2012, 15:22 
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YosuaYosan wrote:
QuickDraw wrote:
YosuaYosan wrote:
Panagiotis Gionis uses Butterfly Petr Korbel and Joo used it too (don't know about now)..

Rerportedly Joo Se Hyuk uses a Butterfly Diode or a custom blade with a similar construction.


Joo USED Petr Korbel, Sir.
But I don't know what blade he is using atm.

Right, I was saying I think that's what he's using now.

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PostPosted: 20 Dec 2012, 12:06 
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After reading posts by roundrobin and pushblocker, I am pleased to announce that I have bought a new Firewall Plus blade from Paddle Palace. (The catologue was too overwhelming!)

Why did I pay 70 bucks ? To get a so-called breaking effect.

I think breaking effects are best from fast hard stiff blades on low to medium shots. On harder shots I'm not sure but it rebounds much lower and seems slower.

As god as my witness, I think the slower control flex blades turn the hard hit blazing speed into a higher projected ball after violently being absorbed by theblade, deforming it. In short it transfers some of the horizontal speed into vertical speed giving an illusion that it rebounds farther. Guessing only.

Anyone know of good breaking effect blades?

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PostPosted: 20 Dec 2012, 18:54 
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timeout wrote:
As god as my witness, I think the slower control flex blades turn the hard hit blazing speed into a higher projected ball after violently being absorbed by theblade, deforming it. In short it transfers some of the horizontal speed into vertical speed giving an illusion that it rebounds farther. Guessing only.


You don't need God as your witness to theorise that, all thin 5 plys do that and throw the ball higher because of the longer dwell time and they make a lot more spin because of it :). If you get the blade's wood and design and weight of the rubbers just right they also throw the ball out of the blade when the flex returns giving more speed and even more spin. I spent most of my spare time last year building blades with strange woods that goal in mind.

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PostPosted: 20 Dec 2012, 23:22 
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Here's a couple of my designs

Top blade is 5.2mm, bottom blade is 4.8mm
Top blade is a fast ALL+, bottom blade -OFF, both weigh about 90 grams
Top blade Koto-Limba-Ayous-Limba-Koto, bottom blade Indian Apple-Limba-Gabon-Limba-Indian Apple
Top blade has considerably more feeling because of the hollow very hardwood handle, Bottom blades handle is solid pine plus the elastic and weighty core make it more smooth less vibration/feel. Both are very powerful blades. Both are 160mmx155mm and balanced.

Image

Running the usual TG3 and 802 1.5mm on this one. Same setup as my main blade so I can compare them.
Image

Image

Was running Mercury II in 36 degree originally on the below Koto blade and it was a BEAST, really put a smile on my face on the first test session. In this picture it's got HRT's tacky rubber on it (junk rubber by the way). Will try TG3 on it at some stage but it seems this blade might suit softer sponges. Best feel into the hand of any blade I've used this one.

Image

Image

And a little bit of a teaser of my masterpiece at about 4.7mm, which I'm hoping will be about as good as a 5 ply looping blade can be, looks the part anyway !. This one has a sweet spot of near 100%, pretty good for a 4.7mm blade, the blade maybe slightly slower than ALL+ with a very heavy 2.0mm core in this one. it was supposed to be all about performance so I was happy when the undisclosed veneers came out looking his good. I got a little sick while making this blade so it's unfinished, the handle is going to be awesome when it's done with alternating horizontal strips of pine and redwood, capped with redwood.

Image

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PostPosted: 21 Dec 2012, 00:55 
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Blade: Victas Matsushita
FH: hybrid k1 euro
BH: Curl p1r 1.0
Hou yingchao uses a hurricane blade.
And Ruwen Filus have used a timo ball spark for a long time, it seens that he uses now a joo blade, that is a vary fast blade for a def blade

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PostPosted: 23 Dec 2012, 02:23 
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Nice designs foam.

What exactly do you do?

Got any good breaking effect blades or designs?

Read Firewall + or balsa core blades are best but imo these are thick and play very fast but dont flex.

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PostPosted: 01 Jan 2013, 18:29 
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Just got my FW+.

Here's a pic of the thick blade:
Image

I'm going to take my time with rubber selection, testing etc.

Initial impressions bouncing a ball on the plastic wrap...very fast, high pitch on both sides.

Anyone got suggestions about sealing the blade or protecting the edges with superglue or other precautions?

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PostPosted: 01 Jan 2013, 19:51 
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seems for the most using a faster blade than a off-/ all + is a self sabotage.. when level gets higher, you can't cut the fast and heavy spins back without pop-up/ going long..
seeing even the highest level defenders use all+/ off- blades like Diode, Korbel, Hurricane Classic, Joo Se Hyuk, Def 2... The structure of these blades are a bit different than lets say '' close to table'' All+ blades, with a blade like Diode it's easier to send the ball to the table from long distance..


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PostPosted: 02 Jan 2013, 03:53 
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Quote:
seems for the most using a faster blade than a off-/ all + is a self sabotage.. when level gets higher, you can't cut the fast and heavy spins back without pop-up/ going long..


Sir, I could not but disagree, with all due respect.

I find that a flexy blade like a regular instinct or matsushita pro tends to throw the ball upwards on high top spin with high speed, at least a club level. Even with adjustment for close angle, the ball tends to travel on a higher arc path although the overall speed can be slower.

With the faster blades, yes there is spring but the close angle can be left almost open, and the ball can seem imo to go where you aim it which is a linear path to a point on the table, in a downwards direction.

This is just my opinion, of course.

Ironically, yes I may have self sabotaged myself because it seems I can get the same kind of balsa effect from a carbon based 5 ply. They are both fast yet low throw!

Happy New Year.

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PostPosted: 13 Jan 2013, 09:04 
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Playing with fast blades compensates for my lack of power.

I think playing style is only one factor when considering the type of blade. Inabilities, like lack of power, are another important consideration. For me using a fast blade allows me to easily push a ball with authority, not netting it, although, I play defensively.

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