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PostPosted: 02 Nov 2007, 08:16 
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Yes flexible blades and those witha softer feel are better for a euro style loop.

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PostPosted: 02 Nov 2007, 08:29 
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Thanks HaggisV. I was thinking about Balsa blades, like the one that you are using now. It's a stiff/hard blade but suprising its has some dwell time.
Is it best suited to euro loop with a balsa, hinoki, arylate?

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PostPosted: 02 Nov 2007, 08:59 
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Balsa is soft, but has quite low dwell time when you start hitting harder, expecially when they're thick. The one I use does not have such a thick layer, and since i tend to brush loop more, it does not affect me much.

All wood is generally the best, and the springier the better for maximum spin. Out of the 3 you listed, the hinoki would genarlly be the best by far for euro style looping.

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PostPosted: 02 Nov 2007, 12:23 
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metal monkey wrote:
So if rubbers play a big part in looping, how about the blade itself?

A blade with longer dwell is better for euro loop?

A stiffer blade is better for chinese loop?



I really think the rubber plays a much bigger part than the blade,but for us mortals a blade with some dwell is needed.I personally think the Chinese treat there blades with something that makes them faster than any production blade you can buy.They seem to be faster away from the table than the Euro player now,Schlager uses an SC and Bryce but yet the Chinese hit harder than him with H2/H3,I can hit much faster balls with sriver than H3.

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PostPosted: 02 Nov 2007, 20:29 
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I don't think you can class the blade as suitable for euro/chinese looping. Instead class the blade as suitable for specific types of rubber, for example, sriver/bryce or hurricane3.

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PostPosted: 02 Nov 2007, 21:54 
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Silver wrote:
I don't think you can class the blade as suitable for euro/chinese looping. Instead class the blade as suitable for specific types of rubber, for example, sriver/bryce or hurricane3.


your right on there Sil

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PostPosted: 03 Nov 2007, 06:23 
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alfie wrote:
I really think the rubber plays a much bigger part than the blade,but for us mortals a blade with some dwell is needed.I personally think the Chinese treat there blades with something that makes them faster than any production blade you can buy.They seem to be faster away from the table than the Euro player now,Schlager uses an SC and Bryce but yet the Chinese hit harder than him with H2/H3,I can hit much faster balls with sriver than H3.


I thought that the chinese hit harder from away because their style of hitting topspins is more of a forwardmotion while euroloops tend to be a bit more upward, therefore less effective in putting speed on the ball.
Which needs to be compensated with faster rubbers (and probably blades too).

Maybe this has something to do with it too:
Now that I've switched to chinese tacky rubbers I find that I cannot "overhit" the rubber, it's always controlled. With fast euro/jap-rubbers there seemed to be a limit on how hard I could hit without loosing control. But maybe I'm just improving myself.

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PostPosted: 03 Nov 2007, 07:02 
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Silver wrote:
I don't think you can class the blade as suitable for euro/chinese looping. Instead class the blade as suitable for specific types of rubber, for example, sriver/bryce or hurricane3.


I don't entirely agree with that... a thick balsa blade is not really going to be suitable for a euro style looper with any rubber, although some make it a lot better than others... So you can choose a blade that's in the right class, and then choose the rubber to make it even more suitable for the style you want.

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