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PostPosted: 01 May 2007, 21:21 
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Yes, they're both official tt glues. 'Power' glue is a small tube from Stiga. The 'Victory' glue I've got now is probably the same thing, just different packaging. Victory comes in a large tin with a brush-lid for $25 on Geoff's website. It's much easier to use because I don't have to worry about using up all the glue, spreading unevenly or having a painting brush drying and becoming hard between coats (which happened once or twice).


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PostPosted: 01 May 2007, 21:29 
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I use rubber cement for most of the bats I make up. I thin it down to the level I want. It's the cheapest option, especially when bought in bulk....

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PostPosted: 01 May 2007, 21:56 
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haggisv wrote:
Ok... yes Geoff's got good connections! Amazing how he got sole rights in AU for 4 different brands!


He bought into the business, and then bought out the other partners (ie Paul P.) Paul P nows sells much of the same brands via his www.TableTennisWorld.com.au business. The prices are the same as CST's if you are a club rep/conatct, but with a much wider range of stuff. Not as many rubber thinkness options however.

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PostPosted: 04 May 2007, 09:13 
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Geoff must have heard his name being mentioned... because he came accross this post... :lol:

He tried to register here to respond, but had some trouble, so he asked me to post this on his behalf just to set the record straight:

Quote:
"For the record I never bought Paul P out of CST and Paul P gets our 4 brands from CST but is in no way affiliated with us. "

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PostPosted: 04 May 2007, 09:39 
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Happy to be corrected :D

I was not meaning to say that Geoff is not well conected BTW! Just that there is another option for club reps, now that CST sells "wholesale" to the public. To be honest I'm surprised Butterfly don't do the same thing. If they set up a decent web site and dropped their retail prices to wholesale, it would help stem the tide of o/seas web orders. (I think most Australian's would pay a couple of $ more for local overnight postage, compared to waiting for o/seas web orders to arrive.)

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PostPosted: 14 Apr 2018, 04:35 
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Can anyone suggest a good Euro style chop or loop rubber. I learned the game with a GKI KungFu bat, it's a cheap basic bat sold here in India. I got a Sanwei M8 + Friendship 729 bat without knowing that its a Chinese style rubber and I learned my game with a Euro style rubber.

I have played a full year(I practice at my work place, an hour a day at most(mostly playing doubles matches)) with the Friendship bat but there is no backspin in my pushes and chops. When I try to chop, most of the times the ball goes out. I guess I have not found the correct angle in which I have to chop.

Can I buy a Euro style rubber and stick it on my Sanwei M8? Will it work? If so suggest some decent and relatively cheaper Euro style rubbers to chop and loop.


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PostPosted: 15 Apr 2018, 18:17 
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India you say ? GKI KungFu has GKI Euro XX and GKI Chenholz rackets that are decent with same name rubbers which are "Euro". Else you can go for Stag Ninja Fire racket or Stag Karlsson Gen2 TEC which are also "Euro".

Unless you are going to a decent TT club and getting coaching regularly, equipment will not make enough difference to improve your game. Your technique and game can only improve if you practice and get trained/coached regularly.

Once your coach has suggested some equipment to you, then probably something like Yasaka Sweden Classic + MarkV or Stiga All-Round Classic + MarkV or ButterFly Jonyer H-II + MarkV or Donic Appelgren All-Play + MarkV etc etc. If you see where I am going ? All-Round blade with Control rubbers until you can prove that you can consistently move, play strokes, play sequences, serve/receive, etc, you cannot think equipment will "magically" make you better at TT :-) This is a common problem with almost everyone who wants to play TT. TT is very different from Lawn tennis or badminton or cricket etc.

Edit: I agree Mark V isn't for everyone. Any other control rubber can be substituted. In India MarkV is widely available and usually recommended by coaches here.

Edit: Off-topic rant :-D sorry :-D

:-) So good luck with getting a "proper" equipment and sticking with it and practicing and enjoying TT. :-)

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Last edited by man_iii on 16 Apr 2018, 10:24, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: 15 Apr 2018, 21:47 
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I've seen about half a dozen posts extolling players to use "Mark V" as a "control rubber". Really?

I'm not convinced of the value. We don't recommend people learning to drive get into a twenty year old car with four gears, a manual choke, no power steering, no ABS, because it's a good way to learn, and then develop to a more modern car.

Mark V is a rubber for two generations of ball ago, in a world where speed glue was king, and people looped with huge Swedish actions, à la Waldner and Persson.

Someone coming to the game today should start with current generation rubbers, and build their technique, feeling, and spin reading around how they behave. They will need to make an adjustment if they 'graduate' to modern rubbers, so why not learn to use them from scratch?

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PostPosted: 16 Apr 2018, 02:04 
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Back in the early 70s, i had a short-lived attempt to get back into table tennis,and tried a Stiga AR with Yasaka Mk V on both sides. I found it really too fast and springy. Uncontrollable for me. Move onto 2016 and I tried it again. Massively unimpressive and lacking in any character (disappointing really, as for 50 years this had been the benchmark, in my head, for a pro rubber), although it is possible that the rubber formulation has been changed a lot in the meantime. I may yet give it another try, but there are so many more suitable rubbers now.

But fundamentally,stop thinking about it, and get something and play. Double inverted is the way to go.

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PostPosted: 16 Apr 2018, 02:16 
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darucla wrote:
But fundamentally,stop thinking about it, and get something and play. Double inverted is the way to go.


Not sure if that's addressed to me, or is just general advice. If the latter, I entirely agree.

If the former: I'm not thinking about it at all. I'm just calling out the questionable nature of what I perceive to be a surfeit of not necessarily great advice for people to use Mark V in 2018.

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PostPosted: 16 Apr 2018, 03:39 
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It was general advice. After a while, one conflates several threads and posts, and answers them all at once, possibly in the wrong place. :$

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PostPosted: 16 Apr 2018, 20:33 
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LordCope wrote:
I've seen about half a dozen posts extolling players to use "Mark V" as a "control rubber". Really?

I'm not convinced of the value. We don't recommend people learning to drive get into a twenty year old car with four gears, a manual choke, no power steering, no ABS, because it's a good way to learn, and then develop to a more modern car.

Mark V is a rubber for two generations of ball ago, in a world where speed glue was king, and people looped with huge Swedish actions, à la Waldner and Persson.

Someone coming to the game today should start with current generation rubbers, and build their technique, feeling, and spin reading around how they behave. They will need to make an adjustment if they 'graduate' to modern rubbers, so why not learn to use them from scratch?


I'm one of those who believe in the value of the likes of MK V, Sriver etc as an ideal starting control rubber, so here's another perspective.

'Back in the day' MK V was about the fastest rubber on offer, Sriver a little slower. In the thicker sponges these were the 'go to' offensive rubbers. As pointed out the was 38mm ball, both before and during the speed glue era - they were very successful even before speed glue was used. Sriver was released in 1967, speed glue usage not for more than a decade after that. At this stage blades for mainstream players also tended to be more of an all round variety.... Stiga AR, hans alsers (mainly AR) and Butterfly Kennys are what I mostly recall, and only a few carbons. For all round players there were tamer rubbers....e.g. tackiness drive. A tackiness D/C combo was not at all uncommon, with D on the stronger wing. Also, use of thinner than max sponges was common.

This of course goes to show how much quicker and spinner the 38mm ball was. I recall the same experience as Darucla in trying mk v on a Stiga ARC, finding it too bouncy and changing.

Fast forward to where we are now.

40+ ball requiring faster rubbers to play a truly offensive game. This market well and truly serviced by the tenergy/tensor etc offerings.

40+ ball requiring faster blade to play a truly offensive game. Again, a market more than adequately serviced!

Speed glue banned so generally (ignore the pros and top amateur levels here) rubbers not being speedglued/boosted (my experience).

So of course, MK V and Sriver will not appeal to the same market segment as they did in the 70s 80s 90s.

I would argue that they have moved down the speed and styles spectrum and now and suit the genuine all round player, or for a weaker wing, up to quite a decent level.

The quality control on these rubbers is excellent. You will simply not get a bad sheet. And I don't agree with the 'it is old therefore it is no good' argument at all! That just makes us fodder for the marketing people to sell the next great thing! Mk v / sriver can generate really decent spin and speed, full stop! There is a reason it continues to be made.....it sells adequately because it is good.

So many players I see have setups that are too fast for them, ofter far too fast. What needs consideration is that the fastest kit available commercially is basically what the pros use. These pros train how many hours a week? 30+? How many hours do us mere mortals train/play? Maybe 5 for me.

I'd challenge Lord cope's car analogy! As I think the comparison is wrong- rubber tech hasn't changed as much as automotive, so I think the comparison would be between a learner driving a small hatchback or a supercar that requires years of experience to handle! Or for a motorsport analogy, you wouldn't stick a new driver in an F1 car (or nascar), there would be lots of classes to work through.

I practice what I preach! I am presently using 2.1mm sriver of my backhand, on a Tim Boll ALC. Forehand is Tibhar Evolution MXP max. The Sriver is just right for what I want of it....my control wing, with a little bit of everything played, and really good for serve returns with enough power to open up when required. The MXP is on my stronger wing where a genuinely offensive style is played.

Finally, I would add that it does take a while to appreciate the strengths of these rubbers. If you just stick them on and start knocking up, they feel a bit slow and dead. You have to work a bit harder for a quality stroke. If just doing fh to fh or bh to bh and the opponent knows where it's going then you will want more power and dismiss them as dead. In game play however you will make less errors and land more balls, and your opponent doesn't know where you are going to put it.

For perspective my previous BH rubber was Tibhar evolution mxs in 1.7. So the softest variant of that range of tensors, in the thinnest available sponge. The Sriver (even in 2.1) is far more controllable (due to the absence of 'catapult effect'), without an insurmountable loss of spin and speed...

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