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PostPosted: 22 May 2012, 22:05 
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hello9959 wrote:
Hi Carbonman - Do you know which antis where the people(who often failed to block successfull considering the player is good player) who you played against were using? This helps us to understand whether the material is difficult to block or the player problem.. actually some manufacturers claim there product as slick but in practical they are still have the grip and reacts to the incoming spin to some extent... your information will help me..


Hi Hello. I'm pretty sure they were using the standard ones - something like Anti Power or Super Anti. One of the players is well past his best but has some class. The other 2 guys were a similar standard but not as classy. I would estimate their US ratings to be around 2050-2150 (Foam and Reb would say they are about 2500! :) ). IMO I don't think it is either an equipment or a player problem: unless you are crazy good, anti is just just darned difficult to handle deep solid loops with.

I will also mention that I have played against anti since before the 2 colour rule was introduced and I have faced some fairly decent anti players. I have always found anti itself to be very easy to play against and I really can't believe the slick antis would make that much of a difference. Anti has limitations/shortcomings, is easy to read, and IMO is much more difficult to block consistently with than inverted or SP. I am generally confident that if I play to the anti the anti-user will make more mistakes than I will. Besides, the ball never comes through at a menacing pace and one usually has ample time to loop. I must confess however that I have never faced a Seemiler-style player and such a style could well pose greater tactical challenges.

Hello I think I understand your general game-plan and it can be very effective (I used to play a similar game with LP with sponge on my BH). However it's not all beer and skittles playing that way - as mentioned above, there are shortcomings.


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PostPosted: 22 May 2012, 22:35 
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You're absolutely right in a way. However, there is no rubber without its shortcomings (or we all would play the same, wouldn't we?). You are wrong with your claim that (slick) antis are susceptible to loops, in fact that's exactly their very domain. Furthermore, whether you can loop or not decisively depends on the ball's length and not merely its speed (though there are fast antis in the market, too, such as Gorilla or Amy), because for a good loop the ball must get behind the table before its second bounce. If this is not the case you cannot loop but flip at most. I have a good comparison: I lost against the USATT 2200 player who was in my league the last three years four times 3:0 or 3:1 (when I had a good day), but defeated him after my switch to SA two times 3:0. He is one of the very good loopers, btw. Power loops are becoming difficult only as soon as they are so fast that they bottom out, which the anti player can prevent most of the time.
I forecast, if you do not stop looping one after the other as soon as you face your first SA player (having let's say >80% of your USATT level) you will have not the slightest chance. I have seen too many who were sure never to loose against an anti (at their level). The only exception, as already mentioned, if you have a lot of practice against SA.

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PostPosted: 22 May 2012, 22:53 
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Whilst I am sceptical (very sceptical!) I will reserve any further judgement on SA's until I actually face them. :)

btw Slick - I agree with what you said earlier that much 'depends on the quality (length!) of the anti player and of his return upon your service'. It makes a difference if the anti player has a good short-game and service return as they can often minimise the effectiveness of their opponents first loop.

Out of interest, what do you do against pendulum serves served from the BH side deep into your BH? They are difficult to return short and in my experience anti players have a lot of trouble returning these safely enough to stop an effective 3rd ball.


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PostPosted: 23 May 2012, 00:33 
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Those actually were the reason to switch from Nightmare to Timeless. With the first I got often killed with these, with the latter most opponents try that once. The major advantage of the TL is that it is able to create underspin on its own, what no other slick anti yet on the market can, and this may become quite fast. So I am able to respond with a quick underspin ball to wherever I want. If the service gets repeated, I also may block one or the other very short behind the net for surprise. If the pendulum has lot of spin, I also may make it long to the elbow and watch my opponent handling the reversal.

The only disadvantage of the TL for me (where the Amy outperforms all other SA I know): I cannot offend on underspin very fast. Blocking these produces a fine topspin return, but speed is insufficient. Experienced opponents are able to read the topspin even though they don't see it and counter my return with ease and without spin.

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PostPosted: 23 May 2012, 09:09 
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hmmmm...I'm not convinced that a quick underspin ball is an effective answer. If a player has reasonable footwork such a ball should be very easy to attack (putting backspin on the return is not going to stop anyone :( ).

Aside from issues already discussed, it is this getting caught on the BH anti with a long serve (or push) which I see as a major stumbling block for anti. It is just very difficult to play a return which which isn't fodder for a reasonable attacker. However, my opinion may be instantly changed as soon as I face the dreaded Timeless or Nightmare. :sweat:


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PostPosted: 23 May 2012, 09:44 
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You have not faced me. I use Seemiller with Super Anti on the backside,,,,,But,,,,,I have a very good loop on the backhand side with the primary side of the bat. I can pick and chooze anti or inverted instantly on the backhand side just by rolling the forarm. :)


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PostPosted: 23 May 2012, 09:54 
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Indeed Hookshot! :) Actually I mentioned earlier that I haven't faced a Seemiler-grip player before. Having the option of being able to use inverted to attack long serves and pushes is a definite way of shoring up the problem.


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PostPosted: 23 May 2012, 10:12 
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Most Seemiller grip players I have seen do not have a good, backhand loop. Even Seemiller does not use it much. Mine is similar to an penholders RPB in speed and spin, very powerful. And it works for banana flicks. :)


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PostPosted: 23 May 2012, 20:06 
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hookshot wrote:
Most Seemiller grip players I have seen do not have a good, backhand loop. Even Seemiller does not use it much. Mine is similar to an penholders RPB in speed and spin, very powerful. And it works for banana flicks. :)

So is mine ;)

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PostPosted: 25 Jun 2012, 19:48 
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Hi guys-
Hurrayy!! I got my nightmare rubber today.. I am excited and wanna try now..
I have received the below:
-Nightmare rubber(Topsheet + sponge)
-White sheet(dont know what is this for)

Also I wanna try this nightmare on different plys(stiga alloround blade & DHS PG7 Blade) to check which suits the best.
I need your urgent help here:

1) Can i apply and reapply on different blades without damaging the nightmare rubber?
2) What is this white sheet used for?
3) I have a DONIC glue...is this glue ok for nightmare? Could you please let me know the process of how to stick this nightmare on my blade?

I wanna apply this rubber now.. very excited so please someone reply this message as early as possible please.. I will check my inbox after one hour.. thanks a ton...:)


Thanks,


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PostPosted: 15 Jan 2014, 01:26 
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Blade: MSP Revolution
FH: RITC Friendship 802 2.2
BH: MSP Diabolic 1.6
hello9959 wrote:

1) Can i apply and reapply on different blades without damaging the nightmare rubber?
2) What is this white sheet used for?
3) I have a DONIC glue...is this glue ok for nightmare? Could you please let me know the process of how to stick this nightmare on my blade?

I wanna apply this rubber now.. very excited so please someone reply this message as early as possible please.. I will check my inbox after one hour.. thanks a ton...:)


Thanks,


the white sheet is a gluing sheet. the sponge should not come into contact with glue, so you need to use the glue sheet (=strip off one side stick it to the blade, cut around, take off the other side, stick the sheet on the blade, cut around)

taking the gluing sheet off the rubber is a problem, its difficult and it leaves waves on the rubber. my advice is to use the butterly clean chack gluing sheet. if you follow the instructions on the sheet correctly, the gluing sheet will remain on the blade and not the rubber and thus can be pulled of the blade after removing the rubber blade.

edit: just saw when he sought advice, guess i am a bit late.. :^) |( :?:

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PostPosted: 17 Apr 2014, 16:10 
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hi folks

i need some advice since i have been serious-ping-pong inactive for almost 20 years.

during the last serious tournament i played, i used an old (very old) very dead inverted paddle with very hard rubber. it took me many matches to figure out how to play with that old thing. however, once i did, i found that i could hit just about anything. my game is a steady, not overpowering loop, fh and bh, combined with a hit whenever i could.

if i get back into playing, i would like to recreate that combo and thought that an anti spin rubber would mimic that old stuff from long ago. i would guess that a thicker sponge, 2.2mm, and one of the anti attack rubbers should to the trick. don't know which blade would do the best either.

any comments? i welcome your input.


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PostPosted: 17 Apr 2014, 16:51 
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Blade: Trinity Carbon
FH: Victas VS > 401
BH: Dornenglanz OX
The Friendship 804 might suit you, and it's an anti with just a little bit of grip, and a fairly firm sponge that's still got some pace (whereas many other anti rubbers have some type of slow or dampening sponge). it's also one of the cheapest antispin rubbers on the market.

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PostPosted: 17 Apr 2014, 19:03 
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Best use the 804 in 2.0 mm and on an allround blade, to give it the best grip and good speed, with good control. Any ALL blade would do.

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PostPosted: 09 Nov 2014, 07:08 
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Hi,

I'm looking for an anti wich is good for chopping far away from table as a classic defender and wich is good for attacking ball close to the table. Sponge should be very soft.
What would you offer? Donic Anti classic or Nittaku best anti? What is the differenc between these 2 rubbers?
Thank you.
Csaba


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