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PostPosted: 06 Apr 2011, 06:32 
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pushblocker!

I have been gluing sponges to inverted rubber. Cole Ely has a video on his web site in the "how to" section that shows a great method.

Also, if the sponge is very thin, it might make sense to do what I use when I glue sponge to an ox pips sheet, I staple the sponge to one of the cardboard sleeves that rubber is shipped in, then it wont curl up as the glue dries. I use rubber cement. I have actually left the sponge on the stapled cardboard and then rolled the topsheet onto it. I have not needed to staple inverted topsheets, only the pips topsheets. It is easier to put an inverted onto sponge than a pips onto sponge. The inverted should not have any concerns with bubbles.

And this is advice from decoy on taking rubber off a sponge:
Quote:
as for taking off a sheet from sponge, use paint stripper and a good bit too, spread it on sponge and rubber and wedge it under two sheets of glass under some weight about 5 or so kg, leave it for few hours. and presto the rubber has come undone + heavy tuned effect also the sponge will be heavily tuned..

i found this by accident while trying to retune a sheet of 999t to the max and completely forgot that i had it sitting like that after going out..

warning only do so at your own risk..



hope this useful...........


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PostPosted: 06 Apr 2011, 10:06 
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speedplay wrote:
Looks as if you have found a really hard sponge to work with, al though manufacturers rating varies, 48-52 must be hard in every ones book.

I did once fool around with the idea of using the blue sponge from a National Globe 999 rubber beneath a anti rubber, but never got around to do it. Perhaps I should try it out... Wonder if I still have the Nat 999 around.

Look forward to read about your result with this little experiment, even though a success might result in minimum friction regulations for anti's as well ;)

If I find the perfect combination, I will definetely consider my own brand..

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PostPosted: 06 Apr 2011, 19:26 
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Most ordinal anti's have soft rather thick sponge. I think there is a good reason for that.


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PostPosted: 06 Apr 2011, 20:13 
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I can't really find a reason why a super-thin anti couldn't be as slow as a OX LP, IMO it's weird that they haven't come up with such a rubber yet since they can make the friction as low as possible.

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PostPosted: 06 Apr 2011, 23:56 
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Got the Toni Hold ANTI 40 last night (my parents brought it with them from Austria) and I have to say that this is the most unusual inverted rubber that I've ever seen.. The rubber really comes with a sponge which actually looks more like some type of packaging foam wrap but obviousely, it meets the definition of "sponge". It's VERY thin and I doubt that once I glue this rubber to a blade that I will be able to get it off without damaging it. Anyways, I'm curious on how the rubber will play.. Will test it on Friday..
The rubber is definetely frictionless.. No grip to speak of at all..

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Last edited by Pushblocker on 07 Apr 2011, 02:59, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: 07 Apr 2011, 02:04 
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If you want to remove without half of your bat coming with it:

Apply glue to 'sponge' and blade, make sure you let both dry and use a rubber remover to help get the rubber off. You can remove and replace this rubber this way. Once you've removed it once it becomes easier to do so again.

Edit: The relatively long and flexible pips (reversed) didn't come away from the 'sponge' noticably this was either.

It reminds of the joola antispin lng pips, just reversed. They were slow, but not very effective.

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Last edited by antipip on 08 Apr 2011, 02:36, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: 07 Apr 2011, 02:58 
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antipip wrote:
If you want to remove without half of your bat coming with it:

Apply glue to 'sponge' and blade, make sure you let both dry and use a rubber remover to help get the rubber off. You can remove and replace this rubber this way. Once you've removed it once it becomes easier to do so again.

thanks!

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PostPosted: 07 Apr 2011, 03:06 
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What blade will you put it on? I think antis generally aren't so good on balsa blades. A lot of anti players like carbon. Dr. N. came out with a line of non-balsa blades for his antis.

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PostPosted: 07 Apr 2011, 03:19 
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mynamenotbob wrote:
What blade will you put it on? I think antis generally aren't so good on balsa blades. A lot of anti players like carbon. Dr. N. came out with a line of non-balsa blades for his antis.


I heared that the Dr. Neubauer Kung Fu is a good anti blade.. Might give it a try on that blade...

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PostPosted: 07 Apr 2011, 16:57 
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Pushblocker wrote:
Got the Toni Hold ANTI 40 last night (my parents brought it with them from Austria) and I have to say that this is the most unusual inverted rubber that I've ever seen.. The rubber really comes with a sponge which actually looks more like some type of packaging foam wrap but obviousely, it meets the definition of "sponge". It's VERY thin and I doubt that once I glue this rubber to a blade that I will be able to get it off without damaging it. Anyways, I'm curious on how the rubber will play.. Will test it on Friday..
The rubber is definetely frictionless.. No grip to speak of at all..


Hmm. Maybe you can use a gluesheet.
Or will it modify to much the effect of this really thin sponge?

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PostPosted: 08 Apr 2011, 01:07 
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I don't see much hope for the hard/thin sponge route. I've tried a couple of anti topsheets glued straight to the wood and results were awful. No control and no better reversal. Maybe the anti-40 topsheet is better designed to be used that way. I've seen a couple of reviews of it and none were very encouraging.

I think what we need is a topsheet so stiff and/or thick that soft sponge can be used without the ball digging into the sponge. Guard seems to be a step in the right direction but not far enough. Attaching the sponge and topsheet with a gluesheet or two also seems to be a step in the right direction. Not sure how legal that is or isn't. Making the topsheet hard enough while still being stretchy enough to count as 'rubber' could be very difficult.

I've heard that there is a minimum pip height of .5mm. I wonder if .5 mm pips on a 1.5mm base sheet would be legal.

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PostPosted: 08 Apr 2011, 02:32 
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auzcar wrote:
I can't really find a reason why a super-thin anti couldn't be as slow as a OX LP, IMO it's weird that they haven't come up with such a rubber yet since they can make the friction as low as possible.


The original toni hold anti rubber (1.5 Sponge maybe nto super thin) was much slower than all 0x pips I have ever tried. I'm talking pre ITTF toni hold made in Austia. I don't know why they changed the mix on the sponge, it's never been the same since it went to Joola; the pace has upped to considerably and it's still slower than the rest of the antis. This stuff doesn't reverse much, but I find it easier to both block and hit with compared Joola toni hold anti (it seems to spend more time on the bat). Debater has tried this rubber and I'm sure he can confirm it's pace (or lack of).

I've tried the new 0x toni hold and it's not as slow as the old stuff, may block similarly but is not as easy to hit with. Blocking wise control was excellent with it, but reversal limited. It's similar to the Joola anti in pace though, closer than the rest of the stuff. Super anti, would be next up (not having tried the 1.9 version).

The problem with smooth rubber is that it has a greater contact area than pips, so it's harder to get reversal with it with comparable friction levels.

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PostPosted: 08 Apr 2011, 03:43 
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bcbcbc wrote:
I don't see much hope for the hard/thin sponge route. I've tried a couple of anti topsheets glued straight to the wood and results were awful. No control and no better reversal. Maybe the anti-40 topsheet is better designed to be used that way. I've seen a couple of reviews of it and none were very encouraging.

I think what we need is a topsheet so stiff and/or thick that soft sponge can be used without the ball digging into the sponge. Guard seems to be a step in the right direction but not far enough. Attaching the sponge and topsheet with a gluesheet or two also seems to be a step in the right direction. Not sure how legal that is or isn't. Making the topsheet hard enough while still being stretchy enough to count as 'rubber' could be very difficult.

I've heard that there is a minimum pip height of .5mm. I wonder if .5 mm pips on a 1.5mm base sheet would be legal.


Hallmark made an anti-loop with white sponge as I recall. the sheet of stuff reminded me of nothing so much as a square of that of super hard and very brittle asbestos floor tile from the 1950s/60s. When you hit with this anti the ball made a loud clicking sound.

tOD

B'fly made an OX pips out rubber in the early seventies (A063?) with a super thick base sheet. I loved that stuff.


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PostPosted: 08 Apr 2011, 05:22 
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Therer are two super anti's. One is the old semiller antii now called super anti special. It is rated as slower but I havnt found that to be total true. It does kill medium base loops very will with a lose grip or chop block, but I have found with you swing hard it allows the racket to come into play and hits much faster then the regular super anti. Special has a yellow spounge and regular is white. Only anti I have figurerd out how to hit against 2000 level loops with. Good luck

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PostPosted: 09 Apr 2011, 14:00 
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Got to hit with the Toni Hold NEW Anti 40 OX today and I have to say that it's the best anti that I have tested so far.. For blocking, it comes really close to frictionless long pips.. Blocks short with great reversal.. It's not Super-Block like but better than non aged friction pips. The best of all, the rubber is consistent. This means that doing the same stroke against similar spin produces a similar return unlike the Super Anti that I tested where the trajectory was very dependent on the speed of the opponents loop. The only thing that did NOT work like on frictionless pips was the aggressive push against underspin.. Using frictionless technique, the ball went right into the net.. However, interestingly, you can attack those balls with a fairly simple backhand attack.. I could attack even against spinless and topspin balls which I was not able to do with frictionless pips. I think that the NEW Anti 40 is a great starting point. I think that with slight adjustments to my technique, I should be able to play close to my current level with long pips However, I would need about 2 - 3 months of training to get better used to it.. I was still blocking too high compared to the DTecS. The good thing about the NEW Anti 40 is that it blocks very short on a passive block which I really like. My opponent was only able to re-loop my blocks of his first topsion occasionally.. Most of the time, it landed in the net. I did try the rubber on my Dr. Neubauer Kung Fu blade. I will also try it on the Firewall Plus but from what I've heared, the Kung Fu is the best blade for antis..

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