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PostPosted: 27 Oct 2012, 09:12 
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I'm going to buy an anti spin rubber.but would it work on the andro blax off balsa blade.btw I want to use the anti for blocking.


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PostPosted: 27 Oct 2012, 10:20 
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I use Super Anti, Max thickness on a balsa blade. Works very well. :)


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PostPosted: 27 Oct 2012, 18:15 
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hookshot wrote:
I use Super Anti, Max thickness on a balsa blade. Works very well. :)

Do you use your Super Anti for blocking at the table?

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PostPosted: 27 Oct 2012, 18:54 
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Actually, I do. However, I have a thin sheet of balsa on my bh mounted perpendicular to the major balsa body which I need for my fh play. Imo, a thick balsa core without kind of mechanical isolation and decoupling does not go well with anti blocking because of the dynamic effects of balsa.

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PostPosted: 27 Oct 2012, 19:38 
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Slick wrote:
Actually, I do. However, I have a thin sheet of balsa on my bh mounted perpendicular to the major balsa body which I need for my fh play. Imo, a thick balsa core without kind of mechanical isolation and decoupling does not go well with anti blocking because of the dynamic effects of balsa.


I have a THWS blade and the both sides look like they were covered with a thin layer of balsa wood. Could this be right? What is your opinion, is THWS blade suitable for anti blocking close to the table?
Could really slow blades be the best ones for anti blocking?

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PostPosted: 28 Oct 2012, 09:57 
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Perhaps you should read this excellent article about Anti on a balsa blade by Kees

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PostPosted: 29 Oct 2012, 20:09 
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haggisv wrote:
Perhaps you should read this excellent article about Anti on a balsa blade by Kees

Hi Alex,
Thanks for your advice. Kees'article is very nice in this thread indeed. I have already found it. I just asked about anti-blades before I have looked around on this topic :lol:
Best regards
Pal

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PostPosted: 05 Nov 2012, 04:16 
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pal wrote:
Slick wrote:
Actually, I do. However, I have a thin sheet of balsa on my bh mounted perpendicular to the major balsa body which I need for my fh play. Imo, a thick balsa core without kind of mechanical isolation and decoupling does not go well with anti blocking because of the dynamic effects of balsa.


I have a THWS blade and the both sides look like they were covered with a thin layer of balsa wood. Could this be right? What is your opinion, is THWS blade suitable for anti blocking close to the table?
Could really slow blades be the best ones for anti blocking?

IF THWS means Toni Hold Whitespot the answer is no - this blade by Joola is entirely made of poplar wood. It does work very well with anti, hits well, blocks well, chops well and pushes well too. But if you want your forehand to have sufficient attacking power, it will need a very fast rubber in max thickness. I have used it with Friendship 802-40 2.2 mm (a very fast short pip) and it was barely fast enough. It goes better with fast inverted rubbers, as it is capable of producing great spin - the combination of just about sufficient speed and very heavy topspin works well.

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PostPosted: 05 Nov 2012, 07:08 
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Kees wrote:
pal wrote:
Slick wrote:
Actually, I do. However, I have a thin sheet of balsa on my bh mounted perpendicular to the major balsa body which I need for my fh play. Imo, a thick balsa core without kind of mechanical isolation and decoupling does not go well with anti blocking because of the dynamic effects of balsa.


I have a THWS blade and the both sides look like they were covered with a thin layer of balsa wood. Could this be right? What is your opinion, is THWS blade suitable for anti blocking close to the table?
Could really slow blades be the best ones for anti blocking?

IF THWS means Toni Hold Whitespot the answer is no - this blade by Joola is entirely made of poplar wood. It does work very well with anti, hits well, blocks well, chops well and pushes well too. But if you want your forehand to have sufficient attacking power, it will need a very fast rubber in max thickness. I have used it with Friendship 802-40 2.2 mm (a very fast short pip) and it was barely fast enough. It goes better with fast inverted rubbers, as it is capable of producing great spin - the combination of just about sufficient speed and very heavy topspin works well.

Hi Kees,
Yes It means Toni Hold Whitespot. That is good news for me, if THWS suits to anti rubbers.
Feeling is nice but the speed is too high, especially recieving of very fast serves. Maybe should I get a thick and very slow sponge? Could you recomend any sponge me, to brake the speed. If I will not be able to slow down my anti rubber I will not be able to block at the table with anti.
Speed of forehand side is smaller problem, because my Donic Accuda S2 can accelerate the speed and generate spin enough for me on the THWS's blade.
Many thanks for your advices
Pal

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PostPosted: 02 Jan 2013, 04:52 
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pal
Quote:
Feeling is nice but the speed is too high, especially recieving of very fast serves. Maybe should I get a thick and very slow sponge? Could you recomend any sponge me, to brake the speed. If I will not be able to slow down my anti rubber I will not be able to block at the table with anti.


Sorry for answering so late - I have been out of it for a while due to back problems. The question of thickness of sponge for blocking is a tricky one; thinner sponge will get you decent reversal but maybe not enough brake, and thicker sponge better brake but no reversal, and a slow dead ball is easily killed by the opponent. In my opinion blocking with anti only makes sense if you have a very slick, very well reversing anti like Neubauer ABS, and even then you would need some speed to make your blocks dangerous (the faster they come, the more dangerous they will be). If speed is a problem for you, it would be better, perhaps, to take a small step back and chop, using a grippy soft-sponged anti like Tibhar Ellen or Juic Neoanti. Chopping will take the speed off, enough to get good control on the ball, and produce decent backspin if you do it agressively.

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PostPosted: 04 Jan 2013, 09:01 
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In a way the advantage or disadvantage of having a slow anti depends on your opponents. Some are confused by reversal, others are not. Some of the latter may be affected by the speed difference between your forehand and your backhand. However, the best on a balsa blade may be to have a slow anti combined with reversal. I use balsa myself quite successfully.

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PostPosted: 15 Jan 2013, 13:42 
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Me too.. HereĀ“s a video:

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PostPosted: 23 Jan 2013, 07:11 
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Kees
You are right absolutelly, but I do not intend to use Juic Neoanti lack of the reversal.
Speed means problem for me, when my opponent serves a strong, long and no spin serve to my anti backhand. As usual well skilled players can smash my return immediately. When I serve, I make a strong underspin for ball, and We play with spin, therefore my opponent can not smash, he can only loop and thereafter I can return this with reversal.
So, I would like to shorten the long, no spin ball serves to force my opponent for looping instead of smashing.
I want to try the new Beast anti. Der-Material spezialist knows the problem what I mean, and I hope that They learned to solve some of these problem.(slower sponge, more control without loosing of reversal)

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PostPosted: 20 Feb 2013, 00:21 
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Great video , I am brand new to anti-spin play and wouldn't change it for anything now. Varying strokes during play and being able to change speeds during the rally helps keep my opponent off balance, a well placed push to the corner of the table scores just as many points as a topspin smash, the benefits of controlling a high spin serve are irreplaceable with the low throw angles of my anti-spin rubber. .

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