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Best blades for frictionless anti
https://ooakforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=25834		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  kodex [ 19 May 2014, 17:50 ]
Post subject:  Best blades for frictionless anti
Carbon blades supposedly are best for frictionless antis and as a rule: the stiffer, the better. Anyone try them on the stiga ebenholz which isnt carbon but supposedly the stiffest wood available? What is better, Butterflys arylate carbon or tamco carbon?

http://www.butterfly.tt/info/products/t ... ial-fibers
Author:  Fadil Olguner [ 18 Jun 2014, 08:27 ]
Post subject:  Re: Best blades for frictionless anti
I am happy with Tachi...
Author:  Fadil Olguner [ 27 Oct 2014, 05:45 ]
Post subject:  Re: Best blades for frictionless anti
Fadil Olguner wrote:
I am happy with Tachi...

Also Der Materialist Two Faces blade.Slow backhand and good reversal especially with Nightmare.
Author:  AA [ 27 Oct 2014, 06:09 ]
Post subject:  Re: Best blades for frictionless anti
kodex wrote:
arylate carbon or tamco carbon?



probably the arylate as it reduces vibrations
Author:  Bulldog [ 27 Oct 2014, 09:57 ]
Post subject:  Re: Best blades for frictionless anti
Matt Pimple was using the Dr Neubauer Hercules. He seemed to love it.

Bulldog.
Author:  agenthex [ 27 Oct 2014, 19:49 ]
Post subject:  Re: Best blades for frictionless anti
kodex wrote:
Carbon blades supposedly are best for frictionless antis and as a rule: the stiffer, the better. Anyone try them on the stiga ebenholz which isnt carbon but supposedly the stiffest wood available? What is better, Butterflys arylate carbon or tamco carbon?

http://www.butterfly.tt/info/products/t ... ial-fibers


The benefit of anti over LP is less dependence of reversal on stroke (how much the pips bend, etc). So most who make that choice are either hoping to fool people it's inverted (a possible moderate advantage at lower levels), or get most consistent amount of reversal without worrying about stroke specifics.

For the latter that often means blocking instead of chop-blocking necessary to get max reversal from LP. Some people prefer faster blocks, some slower for more control/angles. If someone was unable to specify why a faster blade is "better" their advice is about as useful as a coinflip.
Author:  Matt Pimple [ 31 Oct 2014, 01:16 ]
Post subject:  Re: Best blades for frictionless anti
Bulldog wrote:
Matt Pimple was using the Dr Neubauer Hercules. He seemed to love it.

I still love the Hercules and it still is the best blade I have tested so far for frictionless anti (I use Dr.N ABS). It is very stiff, uses some sort of fiber but has very good touch and control probably due to the hinoki outers.
agenthex wrote:
If someone was unable to specify why a faster blade is "better" their advice is about as useful as a coinflip.

Who said a faster blade is better?
Author:  agenthex [ 31 Oct 2014, 04:46 ]
Post subject:  Re: Best blades for frictionless anti
> Who said a faster blade is better?

From OP:

> Carbon blades supposedly are best for frictionless antis and as a rule: the stiffer, the better.
Author:  Matt Pimple [ 31 Oct 2014, 06:13 ]
Post subject:  Re: Best blades for frictionless anti
agenthex wrote:
> Who said a faster blade is better?

From OP:

> Carbon blades supposedly are best for frictionless antis and as a rule: the stiffer, the better.

Carbon blades do not have to be faster. The OP was referring to the fact that carbon blades are stiffer; nothing was mentioned about faster. My favorite blade for frictionless anti is Dr. N Hercules (yes, it is a carbon blade!) and it is listed as All though I think it is more like All+ to maybe even Off- but certainly not very fast. Also, the BTY Grubba Carbon works well with anti as it is very stiff and it is also All+.
Author:  agenthex [ 31 Oct 2014, 06:25 ]
Post subject:  Re: Best blades for frictionless anti
Stiffer blades are by definition inherently faster. Sometimes they're made with very soft outer layers which dampened a bit on soft shots like pushes against backspin, but they will become fast even if just blocking against loopdrives/hits.

This can put more pressure on opponents if you only use passive "strokes" but affords less control over placement and such unless you actively pull back (which is harder than going fwd).

Frankly this forum can be terrible in that mytt sort of way when it comes to expecting equipment change to solve problems. If using another kind of similar blade makes problems go away, it really implies your game is not very good both in terms of mechanics & general understanding.
Author:  Bulldog [ 31 Oct 2014, 07:07 ]
Post subject:  Re: Best blades for frictionless anti
I agree with Matt Pimple about Hercules. It isn't as fast as I thought it would be. Excellent for blocking loop and topspin drives.

I am afraid not all of us have sufficient time to practice in order to overcome technical deficiencies and and mobility issues exacerbated by age. I also believe that some players use equipment that doesn't suit their natural shotmaking.

I see no real harm in a certain level of interest in equipment for equipment's sake as long as it doesn't border on the obsessive. After all this part of the forum is dedicated to equipment!

A very under talented and ageing Bulldog.
Author:  agenthex [ 31 Oct 2014, 07:30 ]
Post subject:  Re: Best blades for frictionless anti
Here's how I believe most equipment reviews work, illustrated with an example:

A player has a mostly simple blocking style. He get a faster blade which returns with bit more punch on same stroke. First time out he's excited and optimistic it'll work out, and more aware & sharp as a result with those strokes. His opponent has played him before and in normal state, but blocks come a bit faster throwing off his timing. Matchup tilts in favor of our player and new blade is heralded as savior of humanity. People who buy based on this review might not even play the same strokes/variations so who knows what it does for them.

Except what actually happens in the long run is that opponents get used to the new timing and our player isn't going to maintain the same high spirits, and with the same skills as before either misses more or slows down the stroke/impact to keep it on the table. If anything the decreased control cuts down on his options to play a more variable game. Our EJ misses the sense of excitement from buying results and goes onto the next model to reproduce that high.

So basically nothing actually happened. Had our player expended the same effort to understand the game or just play better there would've been some positive result.

---
That said a stiffer blade with softer outer might suit a certain style a bit better, just as a thin/slow blade suits looping. But switching between basically similar looping/blocking/etc blades seems pretty pointless.
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