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PostPosted: 20 Nov 2015, 01:38 
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Hi,

Will the Buffalo paired with the mazunov blade too fast, dificult to control?


Thank´s

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PostPosted: 20 Nov 2015, 03:02 
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Jedy wrote:
Will the Buffalo paired with the mazunov blade too fast, dificult to control?

I can't say for sure since I didn't test it with Mazunov but I play it with the Schlager light which is not a slow blade either and it works very well. The Buffalo is the slowest frictionless anti I have tested so I would say it might be okay with the Mazunov.

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PostPosted: 20 Nov 2015, 03:06 
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Matt Pimple wrote:
Jedy wrote:
Will the Buffalo paired with the mazunov blade too fast, dificult to control?

I can't say for sure since I didn't test it with Mazunov but I play it with the Schlager light which is not a slow blade either and it works very well. The Buffalo is the slowest frictionless anti I have tested so I would say it might be okay with the Mazunov.


Thank´s,

I will give a try with the 1.8mm, it seems to be the slowest version.

Best regards

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PostPosted: 20 Nov 2015, 07:13 
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Kees wrote:
As for the Buffalo and balsa, I have now tested this anti on three balsa blades (Re Impact T4, Re Impact Smart, Tibhar Defense Plus) and I was completely surprised by the positive results I got! Balsa, it seems, is a plus with this anti - at least on DEF blades. The problem I had on conventional DEF (or ALL-) blades with the Buffalo was with attacking incoming topspin or low spin balls; the rubber was just too slow to deal with them accurately. The balsa, however, gives this strokes a real boost! And without compromising your defensive strokes, as it tends to slow the ball even more down with those. It is like playing with an OFF-/ALL+ blade when you attack and with a DEF/DEF- blade when you defend, which is really very nice. The Re Impact T4, an OFF- blade, was a bit too fast to defend with; good for blocking and attacking, though. But the Tibhar Def Plus was very good in attack in defense, and the Smart played like a dream. If you want a pleasing mix of real defense with real attack, especially the Smart (or blades like it) is the ticket with this anti.

Thank you Kees!
Yes I also found it to work very well on the Smart, and pleased to hear confirmation of this, so it wasn't just me! :oops: :up: :up: :up:

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PostPosted: 16 Dec 2015, 19:34 
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Hi,

Have my first test with Buffalo 1,8 red last night.
1. Very Interesting reversal and easy control for receiving service, the only dificulty was with fast serves.
2. Blocking wasnt so easy at first but it seem han with more practice it will be easier.
Tonight I will have another practice session and will tell you more!


Now, I have a question for all players with buffalo:
When I took the rubber out of the package it wasnt completly red, the rubber had some stains (kind of pink). At sun light the rubber is red with some pink spots!?!?
Has anyone notice the same?


Thank´s in advance

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PostPosted: 17 Dec 2015, 02:44 
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Jedy wrote:
Now, I have a question for all players with buffalo:
When I took the rubber out of the package it wasnt completly red, the rubber had some stains (kind of pink). At sun light the rubber is red with some pink spots!?!?
Has anyone notice the same?

Yes, one of my Buffalos (the other one did not) had this too; it seems to be residues from the manufacturing process. I was able to just wipe it off with a microfiber cloth. Otherwise, Der Materialspezialist also sells a special anti cleaner. See here: https://shop.der-materialspezialist.com/product_info.php?products_id=9&MODsid=8e51cb429c129fd71cfc1645d5d9fa03

Jedy wrote:
Blocking wasnt so easy at first but it seem han with more practice it will be easier.

This will take some time to adjust as you have to figure out the right blade angle. This may seems counter intuitive, but you have to open the blade face MORE when there is MORE spin on loops.

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PostPosted: 13 Jan 2016, 18:41 
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Hi,

After some extra sessions with buffalo, I have extra conclusions.
1. Blocking seems to be easier with more practice (obviously).
2. The key is to be with some fitness (for every stroke of course) to rich the ball near the body and be active, because when you rich the ball too late and play more passive strokes the ball will carry almost no spin and it will be easy for the oponent to atack it!
3. In previous point I refer than its possible to produce a no spin ball, but it will only be good on a rally to confuse your oponent (with a chop stroke from 1-2 meters from the table) who is thinking the ball is with a lot of underspin and send the ball off the table!!

This week I start to practice another way to block topspin, instead of a chop/block motion I am using a kind of side sweep.
But at the moment I am not sure wich one will be beter to use. Has anyone try those 2 strokes? wich one produce more spin reversal? it seem than the side motion is easier to keep the ball on the table?! any coments? another strokes to try?

Thank´s in advance

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PostPosted: 13 Jan 2016, 18:59 
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Jedy wrote:
Hi,

After some extra sessions with buffalo, I have extra conclusions.
1. Blocking seems to be easier with more practice (obviously).
2. The key is to be with some fitness (for every stroke of course) to rich the ball near the body and be active, because when you rich the ball too late and play more passive strokes the ball will carry almost no spin and it will be easy for the oponent to atack it!
3. In previous point I refer than its possible to produce a no spin ball, but it will only be good on a rally to confuse your oponent (with a chop stroke from 1-2 meters from the table) who is thinking the ball is with a lot of underspin and send the ball off the table!!

This week I start to practice another way to block topspin, instead of a chop/block motion I am using a kind of side sweep.
But at the moment I am not sure wich one will be beter to use. Has anyone try those 2 strokes? wich one produce more spin reversal? it seem than the side motion is easier to keep the ball on the table?! any coments? another strokes to try?

Thank´s in advance

Try passive block, no motion at all at ball contact. When you move you create friction and reduces the spin reversal (unlike when you block with LP ox). Look at how Amir blocks in this video:


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PostPosted: 13 Jan 2016, 20:14 
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Def-attack wrote:
Try passive block, no motion at all at ball contact. When you move you create friction and reduces the spin reversal (unlike when you block with LP ox). Look at how Amir blocks in this video:



Thank´s Def-attack,

interesting video, a LOT of reversal, but he really blocks with his blade closed/vertical!!!
It seems than with buffalo its almost impossible to do the same. I can´t do it, at least for now. When I block I have to open my blade a lot more! is it my technic? or should I gave it more time to practice? or is my blade to fast to do the same ( watching Roberto Negro blocking he doesn´t seems to do the same passive stroke, a short block)?

Since he is using a diferent ANTI can anyone compare TRANSFORMER to BUFFALO?


Thank´s once more?

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PostPosted: 15 Jan 2016, 18:11 
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PostPosted: 16 Jan 2016, 02:28 
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So do you think Buffalo is good on the Dr. N. Barricade?

That's my favorite blade.

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PostPosted: 16 Jan 2016, 04:12 
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mynamenotbob wrote:
So do you think Buffalo is good on the Dr. N. Barricade?

That's my favorite blade.

My friend tried my BEAST 1.5 mm on Barricade def. I got a lot more spin reversal on the Terror blade. Isn't Barricade a balsa-blade? I recall hearing that Buffalo did not work well at all on balsa.

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PostPosted: 02 Feb 2016, 01:49 
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I have now tested (I did drills with a 2100 level guy for 1.5h) the Buffalo in 1.8 and I believe it is better than the 1.2 in all aspects. It has better control on blocking in particular against strong loop drives. It is less sensitive to the bat angle on blocking in general and it is slightly slower. I also found attacking against underspin to be a little bit easier and more consistent but that also worked quite well with the 1.2 version. Attacking or countering no-spins balls was much better than with 1.2 and I could almost use the same technique I used to use when playing with medium pips (Diamant 1.2). I did not see much difference in the spin reversal compared to 1.2.

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PostPosted: 26 Feb 2016, 05:22 
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Hi Matt,

How is it going with the Buffalo 1.8?

I am thinking of trying a sheet on my Hercules blade.

Bulldog

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PostPosted: 27 Feb 2016, 09:49 
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Bulldog wrote:
How is it going with the Buffalo 1.8?

I still play with, I still like it and I won a tournament with it last weekend. The things I said above are still true but in particular the added control. It is easier to keep the ball in play without sacrificing much if any reversal. It does play a little bit less direct though than the 1.2 and that took me a few session to get used to.
I didn't try the Buffalo (neither 1.2 nor 1.8mm) on the Hercules so I can't comment on that specifically but since it generally works very well with slick anti (for example ABS) it should work very well though it might be quite slow with the 1.8.

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