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PostPosted: 02 Oct 2015, 06:31 
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Iron Pips
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Tried NeoAnti. Don't think it is for me. Mushy (would probably be better in 1.5 mm) and a little more sensitive to spin than GD soft anti. Also more difficult to adapt to, chops sometimes went low and sometimes high for no apparent reason. Guess it has to do with sponge engagement. I could attack but not much more easy than with GD and blocks were more difficult. Soft Anti was more fun.

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PostPosted: 06 Oct 2015, 15:56 
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Pipsy wrote:
I played for 5 minutes with the Donic Anti Classic last Tuesday. It was on a Donic Persson Powerplay blade with an old crappy FH-rubber on it, so I avoided using FH and did only some chops against topspin. Very easy to chop balls back with a very flat arc and good speed. Opponent got some backspin back. More from pure reversal than from spin creation. I definitely prefer the LP-feel and the complexity of it. But I will try the Anti again later on a better setup.


This is one of the least antispin anti's around, as it is relatively fast and grippy. More for attack than for defense, but quite neutral in either case. Compared to Stiga Energy Absorber it is rather harmless. Compared to Buffalo it is like a regular inverted that has some wear...

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PostPosted: 06 Oct 2015, 16:11 
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Def-attack wrote:
Tried NeoAnti. Don't think it is for me. Mushy (would probably be better in 1.5 mm) and a little more sensitive to spin than GD soft anti. Also more difficult to adapt to, chops sometimes went low and sometimes high for no apparent reason. Guess it has to do with sponge engagement. I could attack but not much more easy than with GD and blocks were more difficult. Soft Anti was more fun.


I tried it again a few days ago and it was better. I could actually manipulate spin with it, making rather spinny chops (at least the second or third) and also push over the table and make it return as top spin. Attacking can be done but I'd say they are more leathal with my MP. Chop blocks are possible but since that haven't been a big part of my gameplan I did not do it much. Ordinary blocks can be done also but they are difficult to keep low. The problem, and the great thing with this rubber, is that the grip and throw differs a lot depending on impact. You can make a BH loop with it if you use a lot of force, but these strokes won't fool your opponnet more than a few times. Nothing to build a gameplan around. But overall it is a nice rubber for allround game. Perhaps I would prefer it in 1,5 mm (it was only available in 1,0 and 2,0 where I bought it). But the only benefit it has compared to my MP is the low speed and control on chops. And perhaps a little more spin reversal. I can generate more spin with MP and I can still hit sinkers and push without spin and attack. And most of all - I can chop more leathal wit my MP.

Next up to try migh be Auzcars old red B.A.D. in 0,7 mm. If I like it I might by my own thicker version. But this is most likely the last anti I will try (this year ;) ).

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PostPosted: 12 Oct 2015, 19:34 
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Def-attack wrote:
Def-attack wrote:
Tried NeoAnti. Don't think it is for me. Mushy (would probably be better in 1.5 mm) and a little more sensitive to spin than GD soft anti. Also more difficult to adapt to, chops sometimes went low and sometimes high for no apparent reason. Guess it has to do with sponge engagement. I could attack but not much more easy than with GD and blocks were more difficult. Soft Anti was more fun.


I tried it again a few days ago and it was better. I could actually manipulate spin with it, making rather spinny chops (at least the second or third) and also push over the table and make it return as top spin. Attacking can be done but I'd say they are more leathal with my MP. Chop blocks are possible but since that haven't been a big part of my gameplan I did not do it much. Ordinary blocks can be done also but they are difficult to keep low. The problem, and the great thing with this rubber, is that the grip and throw differs a lot depending on impact. You can make a BH loop with it if you use a lot of force, but these strokes won't fool your opponnet more than a few times. Nothing to build a gameplan around. But overall it is a nice rubber for allround game. Perhaps I would prefer it in 1,5 mm (it was only available in 1,0 and 2,0 where I bought it). But the only benefit it has compared to my MP is the low speed and control on chops. And perhaps a little more spin reversal. I can generate more spin with MP and I can still hit sinkers and push without spin and attack. And most of all - I can chop more leathal wit my MP.

Next up to try migh be Auzcars old red B.A.D. in 0,7 mm. If I like it I might by my own thicker version. But this is most likely the last anti I will try (this year ;) ).


I did try NeoAnti another time. It felt a lot better. But I have to accept that attacks with rubbers that are rather easy to attack with will never cause real problems to my opponent (now I am only talking about BH rubbers and SP, MP, LP or anti). I can attack rather good with my MP but my just block or attack back (unless I manage to make a real flat hit hit that floats away, but that is rather tricky). If I attack more than once in a row I most likely lose my advantage, making it possible for my opponent to get in charge. This I have to accept...

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PostPosted: 12 Oct 2015, 21:41 
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Anti in 2.0 mm will not be seriously disruptive for opponents who react promptly. In 1.5 mm it is a different matter, but even then disruption is not overwhelming. The trick is to be disruptive because you vary your returns, as you have already found out... If you counter-hit with the NeoAnti, make certain that you place at the elbow and use good pace, allowing your opponent no time to reflect; his reflexes may get him into trouble this way. Hit twice at the near same spot, but the third time somewhere else and with either more or less speed, so his rythm is broken up. Better still, twiddle for the third hit and use your inverted, to change the return even more. Also, try to get him to step around his backhand with your second hit (he should think he will be able to attack the third one), forcing him a bit to his backhand corner, and then actually place your third return to his far forehand - but be ready to block his (likely diagonal) return of that last ball with your forehand, down the line. You can't dominate the game by force and speed using a an anti, you have to do it by being clever! Vary! Think ahead! It's not only effective, but also much more fun that way!

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PostPosted: 12 Oct 2015, 21:48 
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Kees wrote:
Anti in 2.0 mm will not be seriously disruptive for opponents who react promptly. In 1.5 mm it is a different matter, but even then disruption is not overwhelming. The trick is to be disruptive because you vary your returns, as you have already found out... If you counter-hit with the NeoAnti, make certain that you place at the elbow and use good pace, allowing your opponent no time to reflect; his reflexes may get him into trouble this way. Hit twice at the near same spot, but the third time somewhere else and with either more or less speed, so his rythm is broken up. Better still, twiddle for the third hit and use your inverted, to change the return even more. Also, try to get him to step around his backhand with your second hit (he should think he will be able to attack the third one), forcing him a bit to his backhand corner, and then actually place your third return to his far forehand - but be ready to block his (likely diagonal) return of that last ball with your forehand, down the line. You can't dominate the game by force and speed using a an anti, you have to do it by being clever! Vary! Think ahead! It's not only effective, but also much more fun that way!


Great tip! I usually try to change placement for every return. But reflexes usually tells me to return the ball from where it came. Meaning that sometimes I place the ball twice in a row like you adviced. I often step back and chop if two BH strokes close to the table is not enough to get me a chance to FH-loop. But with an anti that is somewhat slipery like Neo the ball tends to go lower and lower for each return from my opponent (if I block). Maybe I should be more persistent in staying at the table... I will try this :) .

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PostPosted: 06 Nov 2015, 18:34 
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Well, now I have played a few more matches (see clips from yesterday below) and I changed to a real anti-blade (DMS Terror) and a slick anti (DMS BEAST) in 1.5 mm. I might move on to the blade Destroyer later and perhaps give BAD in 1.5 mm a go. But for now I am really excited about this setup. I still make many mistakes, especially when blocking under time pressure, then I tend to block too low. I imagine this will take some time to master, but I am learning. Also, chopping is something I do now after one or two blocks when I realize my opponent will go for a fast loop. I go back and chop and then try to get back to the table. But chopping is actually not that bad with BEAST. cops stay low and kind of stops in the air. But they carry almost no spin (this is glod the first times, then the opponent will take advantage of that).

For now I only block and use the anti for returning serves with odd speed, spin and placement. I will try to get more aggressive when returning serves. Also I need to get better at twiddelling and attack (slow spinny loop or smash) with BH (not often but to break the rythm). Also I would like to learn to push over the table aggressively with anti...





Tomorrow I will use this setup for a tournament. I have about 6 hrs of practice with this setup :). Then I will decide if I will keep it as my main setup... Suggestions?

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PostPosted: 08 Nov 2015, 01:23 
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vary good control on all the shots... :up:

few suggestions though...
main strength of beast anti should be blocking close to the table imho...the idea is to block an opponent spin so nasty that he gets heavy underspin which he need to push it back, and then you kill him with FH...for chopping away from the table, there are better rubbers and beast potential is wasted...

when you push underspin balls with anti, your blade is too open so opponent gets easy high balls to put away...your blade should be almost vertical to the table surface abd than you push forward...in that way, the ball will be fast and low enough...you are doing it well like that in returning the backspin serves...it is the same move... :up:

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PostPosted: 08 Nov 2015, 04:13 
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111Iceman111 wrote:
vary good control on all the shots... :up:

few suggestions though...
main strength of beast anti should be blocking close to the table imho...the idea is to block an opponent spin so nasty that he gets heavy underspin which he need to push it back, and then you kill him with FH...for chopping away from the table, there are better rubbers and beast potential is wasted...

when you push underspin balls with anti, your blade is too open so opponent gets easy high balls to put away...your blade should be almost vertical to the table surface abd than you push forward...in that way, the ball will be fast and low enough...you are doing it well like that in returning the backspin serves...it is the same move... :up:

Thanks.
I know all this, it is just difficult to re-program my brain and spine after so many years closing the bat when blocking.
Actually, defending from distance with chops is not bad with BEAST, just keep it low and long. You won't get much spin but that doesn't do much if chops are long and low. Just be ready for the next attack :)

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PostPosted: 08 Nov 2015, 07:27 
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i didnt say there are bad, just that they are not very effective and then you are not using the rubber to its full potential :up:

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PostPosted: 08 Nov 2015, 07:29 
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111Iceman111 wrote:
i didnt say there are bad, just that they are not very effective and then you are not using the rubber to its full potential :up:

I know :)

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PostPosted: 16 Nov 2015, 04:40 
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Now I have setteled for the slightly faster carbon-blade Destroyer and BAD 1.5 mm (both from der Marerialspezialist). Destroyer is much better for my FH and BAD gives more spin reversal and it is softer, slightly faster and has slightly higher throw than BEAST. It has a little more potential I think and it also better at chopping from distance if I need to play that game (could be nice to be able to use that type of game if close to the table does not work). So now I just need to practice - a lot :)...

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PostPosted: 16 Nov 2015, 22:30 
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little more comparison between BAD and Beast pls :rofl:

and how is Destroyer in comparison with JSH or some known blades?

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PostPosted: 16 Nov 2015, 22:33 
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111Iceman111 wrote:
little more comparison between BAD and Beast pls :rofl:

and how is Destroyer in comparison with JSH or some known blades?

Check my blog...

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PostPosted: 15 Dec 2015, 18:07 
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Just thought I should check back here... I have now setteled (for a while) with BAD 1,5 mm on Destroyer blade. It works very nice on both FH and BH. My problems for the moment are more related to that I am all new to slick anti and my reflexes still tells me to close my bat sometimes when I make a reflex blocking, mostly when I need to stretch to reach the ball. I just need to practice more. Also I need to be able to be more aggressive with BAD on BH at some moment, put some more speed on the ball. Another thing I urgently need to get working on is to twiddle and attack with inverted on BH if someone just put the ball back to my BH after I have used the anti. Those strokes must be punished.

And now I can surely answer the question in the title of the thread - Yes :D . And I will keep it for sometime (now I have learned that I will probably never totally settle with a specific setup, I will use different rubbers to force and help my own development).

Here is a clip from last night, feel free to comment:

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