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PostPosted: 21 Sep 2016, 06:30 
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mataxxl wrote:
Skilless_slapper,

I understand your point of view. Thank you for the meaningful answer. I agree that gipfelsturm is not for standard attack with loop stroke. But, when you play with Transformer on backhand, the keystroke is block with dead balls and slam no spin balls, as you say. Also, you can lift low pushed balls with some kind of topspin stroke, and safety back short serve. For these strokes, gipfelsturm has good control. Do you agree?
Is waran better option? Which rubber is your suggestion? I played with Bty Raystorm, which is similar with inverted rubbers without friction(as worn old rubber), but block is not low and dead, and better players break through my forehand, easily.



Yes, I'd say gipfel is like an 'unspinny' medium pip! As far as it being safe... I didn't think so for my type of game. When going to do the LP style strokes, gipfel failed me and when doing the SP style shots... it worked decently well but less consistently. So, for me at least, when the time came to put away the loose balls with a smash -- they were unreliable for me. I just didn't see things improving for me and gipfelsturm :lol: It doesn't seem to do anything particularly well, and functions more as a jack of all trades between SP/MP.

I think Spinlord's Keiler rubber is much better for doing what you describe, and the blocks are pretty dead as well. I'm also liking the TSP Curl 3 Alpha R rubber in 1.4mm thickness. With the sponge, it can still perform chop blocks at the table relatively well, block back with spin reversal, but also has enough grip on the pips to play strong smashes and pseudo-top spins. Though it's definitely more in the LP territory as far as passive spin reversal.

If you just want straight 'dead' blocks and hits, then I think the 563-1 rubber is good. Keiler and Dr. N Diamant also. If I were going the block dead and smash route, I'd 100% glue on Keiler. If you block more than you try to smash, as in a passive directional blocker, then Gipfelsturm may be better for you in producing the dead ball effect. But if you win more points going SLAM SLAM, then I'd say Keiler all the way. It's that age old trade off between: do you want the funky ball? Or the reliable smash when the opportunity arises? The two don't really seem that compatible. The funkier a rubber is, the harder it is to smash accurately. Gipfelsturm is able to do the standard LP punch-block against back spin though. That's a nice plus. So any pushes or chops can be attacked quite aggressively. Whereas with Keiler, I think it's a bit too grippy to go that route. You'd be more in the flip/loop territory with Keiler vs back spin.

Actually, I made a thread about those kinds of pips not too long back: viewtopic.php?f=42&t=29978

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PostPosted: 21 Sep 2016, 08:43 
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thats all dandy guys, but what does it have with the topic? :?: :lol:

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PostPosted: 25 Sep 2016, 09:11 
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111Iceman111 wrote:
thats all dandy guys, but what does it have with the topic? :?: :lol:



I'm still loving the ol' transformer! People think I have an ungodly ability to read spin on serves, as I never miss the return of them! ...until they find out I'm using anti-spin :lol:

The transition is still a wobbly one for me though. I'm somewhat used to slamming the light and high top spin balls... but I miss a ton of those 'easy' returns now. Haven't quite got the form down to finish them with the anti side. And my muscle memory still gets me in trouble at times...

But transformer is wonderful stuff! My current problem with it is relying TOO MUCH on my anti! At least in the early learning stages, I suppose that's not terrible. I'm losing to people I used to beat with double inverted, and winning against others I lost to in the past. So more training is definitely required... all in all, it's a great rubber for my preferred style. Handles any serve, regardless of spin, very easily. Can block back loops nice and short, with a lot of reversal. I chop away from the table with it as well. The only problem is... same as always with non-grippy rubbers... tough to attack top spins!

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PostPosted: 25 Sep 2016, 09:38 
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why would you attack topspins? :)

if it is a proper topspin, you block it and then he needs to chop it and than you attack with your FH...

if it is not, than you push his weak or no spin ball back with the anti and wait for your opportunity...

it is important to always push the ball forward and not open the blade and go under the ball...try some techniques from the anti and lp training course topic where we explained the exercises pretty good imo... from my post onward...

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PostPosted: 25 Sep 2016, 22:27 
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111Iceman111 wrote:
why would you attack topspins? :)

if it is a proper topspin, you block it and then he needs to chop it and than you attack with your FH...

.


^^^very true

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PostPosted: 26 Sep 2016, 02:00 
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111Iceman111 wrote:
why would you attack topspins? :)

if it is a proper topspin, you block it and then he needs to chop it and than you attack with your FH...

if it is not, than you push his weak or no spin ball back with the anti and wait for your opportunity...

it is important to always push the ball forward and not open the blade and go under the ball...try some techniques from the anti and lp training course topic where we explained the exercises pretty good imo... from my post onward...



Old habits and desires, is why!

That's the one point I'm still debating on whether to continue with anti or go back to a sp/mp. I like to do a lot of smashes and blocks. So I still have the inclination to 'finish off' those types of top spin shots.

In your experience, are the majority of points won from the anti due to the opponent misreading the spin? Do you get many out-right winners when using the anti side? Against back spin I can punch the ball past players or off to wide angles with good pace. Against top though?

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PostPosted: 26 Sep 2016, 02:21 
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skilless_slapper wrote:
111Iceman111 wrote:
why would you attack topspins? :)

if it is a proper topspin, you block it and then he needs to chop it and than you attack with your FH...

if it is not, than you push his weak or no spin ball back with the anti and wait for your opportunity...

it is important to always push the ball forward and not open the blade and go under the ball...try some techniques from the anti and lp training course topic where we explained the exercises pretty good imo... from my post onward...



Old habits and desires, is why!

That's the one point I'm still debating on whether to continue with anti or go back to a sp/mp. I like to do a lot of smashes and blocks. So I still have the inclination to 'finish off' those types of top spin shots.

In your experience, are the majority of points won from the anti due to the opponent misreading the spin? Do you get many out-right winners when using the anti side? Against back spin I can punch the ball past players or off to wide angles with good pace. Against top though?


Very heavy topspins can be very difficult to defend against and if you are under the cosh you just have to block.
The guy i knocked up with was ranked about 30th junior in england at one point.(years ago)
he also knocked up with a youngster who was very handy on the f/h with topspin.
i played them both and i think the secret is to play an ugly game.try not to feed that f/h-chop with the anti to the backhand and then get the f/h in asap.so to be honest im not wanting to see their f/h at all.if it comes your rubber and technique is going to be tested to the max.the good thing about anti is that their serves are usually easy to get back.with the yasaka you can play attacking backhand drives so it is like an inverted.also if your serves are getting killed you can then serve with the anti to give no bounce.
is your anti excellent for blocking vicious topspins??
i know my anti is different but i admire aas game -is it as easy as he makes it look :D

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skilless_slapper wrote:
Damn, she was breaking that ass down! :rofl:
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PostPosted: 26 Sep 2016, 05:36 
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skilless_slapper wrote:
In your experience, are the majority of points won from the anti due to the opponent misreading the spin? Do you get many out-right winners when using the anti side? Against back spin I can punch the ball past players or off to wide angles with good pace. Against top though?


i am using anti as a way to get to my powerful FH...against every opponent is different...best case scenario is when i play a guy that is depending on his high spin from both sides...than this FAnti really shines...blocks that he get in return are with so much underspin that he cant even push the ball back and he can forget about spinning for the 2nd or 3rd time...

in a usual average match i play, if i survive 3rd ball hard FH attack i usually win the point...either because opponent has misread the amount of spin or underspin is on the ball, or after my block when he chop it i kill him with my FH...i dont attack much with my BH...

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PostPosted: 27 Sep 2016, 03:15 
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111Iceman111 wrote:
skilless_slapper wrote:
In your experience, are the majority of points won from the anti due to the opponent misreading the spin? Do you get many out-right winners when using the anti side? Against back spin I can punch the ball past players or off to wide angles with good pace. Against top though?


i am using anti as a way to get to my powerful FH...against every opponent is different...best case scenario is when i play a guy that is depending on his high spin from both sides...than this FAnti really shines...blocks that he get in return are with so much underspin that he cant even push the ball back and he can forget about spinning for the 2nd or 3rd time...

in a usual average match i play, if i survive 3rd ball hard FH attack i usually win the point...either because opponent has misread the amount of spin or underspin is on the ball, or after my block when he chop it i kill him with my FH...i dont attack much with my BH...


I use the anti on my forehand, as I generally play backhand loops. My FH was not winning many points outright (aside from smashes), and I was more prone to blocking pasy isively rather than attacking. So I thought the LP/anti on the forehand would cause some problems, moreso than grippy inverted when blocking. But I think since swapping to anti I've been relying on it too much. Maybe not a terrible thing while learning, though it does cost me some matches I usually win with double grippy inverted. Ideally I think my style would be more of a single sided attacker on the BH with FH blocks and chops for disruption/setups for the BH.

The 'pushblocking' style I've been practicing by using FH anti only, doesn't seem too potent for me. Once I started going back to BH attacks, my win rate did increase. It would take some real patience and resolve to play a game like pushblockers!

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PostPosted: 01 Oct 2016, 12:28 
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Blade: DMS Revolution
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So after trying 1.5mm first, then 1.0mm, then 0.6mm, then 1.0mm, and then 1.5mm again - I am sticking with 1.5mm on the Destroyer blade. The control against hard loop drives is far better, the aggressive pushing isn't too bad, and drop shots are much easier. I don't have a problem getting the ball over the net like I did the first time I tried 1.5mm. Spin reversal isn't affected much either. I have found that I get the best reversal when I am able to return the ball "softly," if that makes sense.

Keep in mind that I train and compete at a Butterfly club so we are exclusively using the G40+ ball. Being a FH looper, I still feel that the G40+ takes a fair amount of spin, but it does seem like shorter blocks are more effective with this ball.


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PostPosted: 01 Oct 2016, 15:50 
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Next week i'll coming hard test with my 1.5mm and 0.6mm transformer with same blade.
I'll post here impressions and sensations.
For now i can say that: 1.5mm it's very very slow on my nittaku violoncello, very hard to push the ball over the net and normal reverse spin vs topspin.
Better the 0.6mm: easy to push balls at the end of table and good control, better reversal spin if i made a fast moviment.
Very different than long pimple osx even if, for now, push hard with osx is more simple than transformer.
I'm waiting for my new amicus pro robot for training repeatedly and improve my automatism.
Timing it's very important for making reversal spin and long or short balls..
Sorry for my english.. and good tennis table to all..

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Blade Nittaku Goriki SuperDrive FH Donic Baracuda Max BH Tibhar Grass D.TecS OX + Toni Hold Dumpening Sponge 0.5 mm
Blade Nittaku Goriki SuperDrive FH Donic Baracuda Max BH der-Materialspezialist Megablock 1.5mm
Blade Nittaku Goriki FH Donic Baracuda Max BH Tibhar Grass D.TecS OX + Toni Hold Dumpening Sponge 0.5 mm
Blade Nittaku Violoncello FH Donic Baracuda Max BH Der-Materialspezialist Elimination Extralong OX
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PostPosted: 01 Oct 2016, 19:38 
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haha love your english mate, please inform us about your findings... :up:

yes, i will also switch to a thicker transformer like conrad did...i found out that i am not attacking and play aggressive enough to justify 1.0 rubber on the bh...

and it is more difficult to block strong loops that people have in my rank of competition...

i have also changed all thickness of the rubber but it is very dependent of the blade...when i had DEF blade 0.6 thickness was too slow, so take al this information me and conrad wrote with a grain of salt if you are playing with a defensive blade...we are playing with destroyer which is fairly fast...it say all+ but it is more off- imo...

and...sorry for my english too :rock:


and one last thing...how often do you clean your transformer? it seems that i will start to clean it after every game because it is sooooo sensitive of every drop of moisture or sweat that is on the rubber...

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PostPosted: 02 Oct 2016, 03:13 
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ty mate.. :up:

Quote:
and one last thing...how often do you clean your transformer? it seems that i will start to clean it after every game because it is sooooo sensitive of every drop of moisture or sweat that is on the rubber...

i clean my transformer with special cleaning by DMS.. after 3/4h of training..

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Blade Nittaku Goriki SuperDrive FH Donic Baracuda Max BH der-Materialspezialist Megablock 1.5mm
Blade Nittaku Goriki FH Donic Baracuda Max BH Tibhar Grass D.TecS OX + Toni Hold Dumpening Sponge 0.5 mm
Blade Nittaku Violoncello FH Donic Baracuda Max BH Der-Materialspezialist Elimination Extralong OX
Blade Nittaku Violoncello FH Donic Baracuda Max BH der-Materialspezialist Megablock 2.0mm


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PostPosted: 05 Oct 2016, 18:29 
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How do you guys remove transformer from a blade? That stuff sticks on there hardcore! I use the glue sheet, and after swapping one out today... sponge stuck to the wood and all that good stuff. Rubbed my thumb raw removing all the left over!

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PostPosted: 05 Oct 2016, 19:30 
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Blade: TSP Balsa 5.5 All+
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The Iceman uses a fish slice, I am not sure if he has documented the whole process.
When I removed mine I took his advice and used a wide thin bladed knife and worked my way around the edges, lifting a little all the way around, then a little more and so on, trying to ensure that the rubber stayed as flat as possible and did not crease. Mine came off looking very good.
It was glued by Der Materialspezialist with their blade.

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Setup3: Blade: DMS Destroyer FH: Tenergy 05 max BH: DMS Transformer 1.5


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