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PostPosted: 13 Jan 2016, 04:12 
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Def-attack wrote:
Here is a short clip from some of yesterday's session with 1.5 mm Transformer on BH. I was totally out of timing and touch, missed lots of serves and attacks. And I was bothered and frustrated over Transformers extreme slowness :)


Thank you to post the clip. It was completely wrong. As you said you are sometimes out of timing, but we see that you are capable of better play.
Indeed, Transformer is extremely slow and I think that some players made a bad choice choosing the 1,5mm.

I will try it for the first time tomorrow evening. 0,6mm.

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PostPosted: 13 Jan 2016, 05:25 
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Capoblanco wrote:
Def-attack wrote:
Here is a short clip from some of yesterday's session with 1.5 mm Transformer on BH. I was totally out of timing and touch, missed lots of serves and attacks. And I was bothered and frustrated over Transformers extreme slowness :)


Thank you to post the clip. It was completely wrong. As you said you are sometimes out of timing, but we see that you are capable of better play.
Indeed, Transformer is extremely slow and I think that some players made a bad choice choosing the 1,5mm.

I will try it for the first time tomorrow evening. 0,6mm.

I agree, I ordered a 1.0 mm today...

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PostPosted: 13 Jan 2016, 05:50 
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Forgive me, but I wanted to say: It wasn't completely wrong.

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PostPosted: 13 Jan 2016, 06:01 
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Capoblanco wrote:
Forgive me, but I wanted to say: It wasn't completely wrong.

Haha... well I felt like an elephant that night...

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PostPosted: 13 Jan 2016, 07:26 
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the problem ist that you couldnt use the advantage of the rubber which is blocking...the video shows that you hardly ever blocked a second topsspin..most of the time your opponent either looped to your forehand or you played forehand from your backhand side. when he "looped" with his backhand, it was more like a no-spin ball, so there was no reversal in your block and he could attack it with his forehand. you should try to block a second loop with the anti- your opponent will be forced to chop. for e.g you should try to serve a lont to semi-long service with a lot of backspin and try to block that with the anti..should he be able to loop the block, block that again and he should be forced to chop the block or its game over ;)

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PostPosted: 13 Jan 2016, 18:28 
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AA wrote:
the problem ist that you couldnt use the advantage of the rubber which is blocking...the video shows that you hardly ever blocked a second topsspin..most of the time your opponent either looped to your forehand or you played forehand from your backhand side. when he "looped" with his backhand, it was more like a no-spin ball, so there was no reversal in your block and he could attack it with his forehand. you should try to block a second loop with the anti- your opponent will be forced to chop. for e.g you should try to serve a lont to semi-long service with a lot of backspin and try to block that with the anti..should he be able to loop the block, block that again and he should be forced to chop the block or its game over ;)


Just to illustrate the importance of what AA just said, here is a clip from the last set I played that day. Now it is was even more late and we were even more tired |-) and stiff legged and sloppy (look at 1:52 :oops: )...
Anyway, look at 0:25 and 3:00 you'll se just how what AA described could work (really high blocks, but they still causes problems since they are slow). Also, the first two points and at 2:45 indicates just how slow this rubber is in 1,5 mm...



Now, to get people to loop the way you want, you need a serve that lands with 2nd bounce on the white line or just pass it. This way most opponents hesitate when decide weather to loop, flip or push. Also, serve needs to force opponent to move a little, so loop cannot be performed in comfort zone from where he (or she) is standing when returning the serve. So a semi-long serve that curves into the cross over point will most likely end up in a loop that you easily can block. Also, a BH serve to far FH can do this, but if loop lands far to your FH corner you might get inte trouble. Also, you need to face a player who really wants to loop that serve. If you meet an opponent who likes to flip (banana-flip from BH) you can use this to get nice opportunities to block.

For me I also have the problem of being used to attack from 1-2 meters away from the table. I tend to mis-time my strokes a little when looping close to the table. But this is just a matter of experience and practice.

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PostPosted: 13 Jan 2016, 20:29 
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AA wrote:
the problem ist that you couldnt use the advantage of the rubber which is blocking...the video shows that you hardly ever blocked a second topsspin..most of the time your opponent either looped to your forehand or you played forehand from your backhand side. when he "looped" with his backhand, it was more like a no-spin ball, so there was no reversal in your block and he could attack it with his forehand. you should try to block a second loop with the anti- your opponent will be forced to chop. for e.g you should try to serve a lont to semi-long service with a lot of backspin and try to block that with the anti..should he be able to loop the block, block that again and he should be forced to chop the block or its game over ;)


if you remember, i told you the same thing... :up:
imo, you should try to play at the table more, if you are playing with anti...that way you will be using anti to its full potential....


today i will try transformer on joo se hyuk blade which is faster than my power defence...and if that will be to slow, i have stiga hybrid wood to try too...

the way to measure if a blade anti combo is fast enough is it must be able to push the ball over net on block without hand movement, right? just a pasive hand with the requet blocking a semi fast spin should return the ball over net...that is what i must achieve...because now, it all go into net no matter the angle if i dont add to the ball...

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PostPosted: 13 Jan 2016, 20:38 
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111Iceman111 wrote:

imo, you should try to play at the table more, if you are playing with anti...that way you will be using anti to its full potential....



Remember, I have spent 6 years learning to play away from the table as modern defender... I need more than 3 months to learn to stay at the table :) .

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PostPosted: 13 Jan 2016, 21:56 
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I recently purchased the Destroyer Blade (Straight) with Transformer (Red) BH in 1.0mm and Breakout (Black) in 2.0mm on forehand. I have had one session with this setup which was interesting to say the least, the effects off the anti are frankly ridiculous even compared to Dtecs in Ox which I have used for the last 4 years. It is a doddle to attack with compared to Dtecs if you use the correct stroke and the reversal far greater than Dtecs when returning spinny balls.

I am on the fence as to whether to continue to test or not, the transition seems like it might be too disruptive to my game at this point in the season as I am playing in a higher Division than normal and play a lot of long defence.

I would be prepared to sell the bat if anyone is interested, it is as new and cost me 183 Euros (£140), I would accept £100 for it shipped to your location of choice, PM me if you are interested. If not, I guess I will keep testing it once a week during our weekly practice sessions and report back my findings.

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PostPosted: 13 Jan 2016, 22:44 
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MydasDiablo wrote:
I recently purchased the Destroyer Blade (Straight) with Transformer (Red) BH in 1.0mm and Breakout (Black) in 2.0mm on forehand. I have had one session with this setup which was interesting to say the least, the effects off the anti are frankly ridiculous even compared to Dtecs in Ox which I have used for the last 4 years. It is a doddle to attack with compared to Dtecs if you use the correct stroke and the reversal far greater than Dtecs when returning spinny balls.

I am on the fence as to whether to continue to test or not, the transition seems like it might be too disruptive to my game at this point in the season as I am playing in a higher Division than normal and play a lot of long defence.

I would be prepared to sell the bat if anyone is interested, it is as new and cost me 183 Euros (£140), I would accept £100 for it shipped to your location of choice, PM me if you are interested. If not, I guess I will keep testing it once a week during our weekly practice sessions and report back my findings.


Interesting to hear that you think it has much more reversal than D.TecS, as most consider to be the LP with most reversal. I have never played with Frictionless LP, it would be very interesting to hear anyone who has that make a comparison with Transformer.

I also wonder how these slick antis can pass ITTF's rule for minimum friction... I thought DTecS was very close to that limit. These slick antis must also be, or doesn't those rules applies to antis?

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PostPosted: 13 Jan 2016, 22:57 
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I also wonder how these slick antis can pass ITTF's rule for minimum friction... I thought DTecS was very close to that limit. These slick antis must also be, or doesn't those rules applies to antis?


From what I have read inverted rubbers are not subject to the minimum friction rules only pip rubbers.

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PostPosted: 13 Jan 2016, 23:01 
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Def-attack wrote:
doesn't those rules applies to antis?


Those rules applies only to long pips.

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PostPosted: 13 Jan 2016, 23:05 
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Capoblanco wrote:
Def-attack wrote:
doesn't those rules applies to antis?


Those rules applies only to long pips.


Cool! :devil: :devil: :devil:

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PostPosted: 13 Jan 2016, 23:51 
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I didn't compete with frictionless LP but I've played a lot with both Super Block and Hallmark Original and if we're talking about pure reversal, the slick antis are very close to that of the frictionless LPs IMO, if not at the same level. The FLP maintained their reversal better when putting "pressure" on the rubber and playing more actively though. GlAntis certainly have a lot more reversal than D.Tecs, Dornenglanz and all other legal LPs today. The friction level of D.Tecs and the GlAntis are not on the same level, if you spin the ball with your inverted and catch it horizontally with the GlAnti the ball will keep spinning on the rubber, if you try the same thing with any legal LP the ball will shoot into the wall, your friends eye or whatever else is beside you hehe.

IMO FLP was a lot easier to handle compared to GlAntis though, they had much better control, easier to keep the ball low and they worked better to chop with. I think that the memory of the FLP and what they could "accomplish" has become a bit enlarged though. They weren't miracle rubbers that could make insane reversal from nothing and keep the opponent guessing at all times, they were quite limiting actually if you didn't get the balls you wanted/needed and if you faced a player that knew how to handle them you could be put on the potty pretty "easily".

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PostPosted: 14 Jan 2016, 00:12 
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The caveat to the point that reversal is far greater than that possible using Dtecs is that as Amir pointed out this is only possible when you keep the bat still and let the ball rebound off the rubber, any forward movement restricts the reversal achieved. In Amir's videos this looks like an easy thing to do and many people who are used to Dtecs in Ox might think that is what they do now when they block. However, my experience was that actually my muscle memory from using Dtecs does actually include both forward and backward motions, all be it small movements, that when used with a slick anti vary the behaviour of the return considerably more than you might think. Amir was kind enough to give me some advice before I purchased the bat, he warned me that the angles and motion (or lack of) were very different with slick anti when compared to Long Pimple. I had assumed that because Dtecs is as slick a LP you get these days that it wouldn't be so different (compared to P1R etc), but it is amazing how much difference very small changes in technique can make. Breaking muscle memory will take time, getting your technique to Amir's level with a slick anti, or anywhere near it, I would argue would take a lot of regular practice if you are coming from LP and not from another Slick Anti. If you have the time and the dedication, the payoff is there as I think the ceiling in terms of quality of opponents you can beat is higher with Slick Anti, not least because of the better attacking options against no spin and backspin balls, but you need to put the work in. My experience with Dtecs is that you get to a certain level (top division local league) and you can be competitive but players of that standard understand they should push the next ball following a chop off their loop, so consistency of returns and/or a very good forehand are required to win any games (or pip hits but these are very difficult with Dtecs Ox). I found the players at the top of that division would actually use the rubber against me, no spin balls wide out to backhand followed by drive/loop/kill.

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