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PostPosted: 31 Jan 2017, 04:17 
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Blade: DONIC WSUC
FH: Andro Rasant Powergrip
BH: Dr Neubauer Aggressor
mataxxl wrote:
BJ20 wrote:
I have the following blades, which one is the best for slow best reversal bloks (throw as low as possible) ?
With Mega Blok 1.5 i prefer.

Donic Waldner Senso Carbon (or Ultra Carbon)
Donic Persson Power Senso v2

(except andro super core carbon light Off+, but i think it will be to uncontrolable and fast for mega blok... ?)

Thx for the great reviews and video's guys


I tried more than 10 different blades in last three years with Beast, Transformer and Mega Block. I was struggling, and all that blades had advantage and disadvantage. DMS Revolution is far the best one, because it is allround and ultra stiff. Other stiff blades are made for loops or hard attacks (OFF- or faster), which is not good for flanti, because you cannot block aggressive opponent's attacks with lot of control, because of wood's speed. Even some DrN blades are so fast for me, and i mark them in OFF- or OFF, not in ALL as manufacturer said. Thus, my advice is to get over money and buy one specialized blade like Revolution.


Ok Thx for the advice


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PostPosted: 31 Jan 2017, 20:33 
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Blade: DMS Revolution
FH: Spinlord Waran 1.5
BH: DMS Mega block 1.5
Dear Mega Block customers,

is there any problem about Mega Block durability? This rubber there is on the market about two or three months, so do you feel that spin reverse or control is less now? I play about 10 training seasons, so everything is still OK.

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PostPosted: 02 Feb 2017, 00:57 
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Blade: DMS Destroyer
FH: XIOM Vega China max
BH: Transformer 1.5 mm
as far as i can see, it is better than it was on transformer... :up:

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PostPosted: 04 Feb 2017, 01:11 
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Blade: MSP Wizard
FH: Spinlord Gipfelsturm 1.8
BH: Neubauer ABS 1.8
My sheet of MB is from November, and I train 5-8 hours a week. I have noticed that my sheet of MB is getting somewhat old. In the sweet spot of the rubber I must use the cleaner at least a few times during my 2-hour training sessions, otherwise the ball has no spin reversal. The good news is this aging has taken longer than in Transformer, and the cleaner is more effective on MB than Transformer as well.

I have a theory that the surface has become smoother over time, after repeated impact from the ball. This is counterintuitive but I think it may increase the available contact with the ball, thereby increasing the friction and decreasing the glanti effect.

I am going to take a look with a microscope this weekend! I will post photos so stay tuned!

Conrad


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PostPosted: 05 Feb 2017, 10:21 
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I posted new topic since it's not MB-specific.


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PostPosted: 09 Feb 2017, 17:12 
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I've not been overly enjoying the 2.0mm mega-block... seems too mushy on the blade I was using. When comparing it to transformer 1.5mm, I would choose the transformer over MB so far. Though for a real test, I'd need a sheet of 1.5mm MB.

As a side note, it seems that when using the butterfly glue sheets... I am able to peel the anti rubbers right off almost! The der mat glue sheets really stuck to the sponge, whereas the butterfly sheets were easily separated. What happens is the glue sheet stays stuck on the blade, and the anti rubber lifts off quite easily. You then just have to peel the glue sheet off your blade if desired.


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PostPosted: 10 Feb 2017, 02:38 
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It's a good info because the MB doesn't like white glue... I use revolution n°3, I have never damaged any rubber with it, but it has dramatically reduced my MB sponge and have supressed most of absorbing effect of the sponge... somebody knows if it's possible to buy only the dampening spo,ge somewhere ? I have asked the question to DMS, no response...


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PostPosted: 10 Feb 2017, 05:33 
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Blade: MSP Revolution
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It cant be bought seperarely. It has been mentioned a few times in this thread that you should stick these types of antis only with a glue sheet. The best one is butterflys in my opinion

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Blade: Der-Materialspezialist Revolution Backhand Der-Materialspezialist Mega-Block 1.5


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PostPosted: 10 Feb 2017, 05:52 
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AA wrote:
It cant be bought seperarely. It has been mentioned a few times in this thread that you should stick these types of antis only with a glue sheet. The best one is butterflys in my opinion


Yep. The problem is some of those glue sheets seem to MERGE with the sponge :headbang:

I was able to move around the anti's stuck on butterfly glue sheets without issue -- using the der mat glue sheets... let's just say I threw a bunch of money out the window when trying to remove them, and ended up with wrinkly pieces of rubber and swiss cheese for sponge!


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PostPosted: 10 Feb 2017, 07:00 
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Blade: DMS Destroyer
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i posted in my blog already, but what i am doing when i have a sticky sheet not from btty is i glue it and remove it from the glass table 10/20 times so it loses some of it stickiness...

and then i put the rubber on it...so it is not so sticky and can be easily removed from the blade...

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I must not fear. Fear is the mind-killer. Fear is the little death that brings total obliteration. I will face my fear. I will permit it to pass over me and through me. And when it has gone past I will turn my inner eye to see its path. Where the fear has gone there will be nothing. Only I will remain.


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PostPosted: 13 Feb 2017, 13:01 
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Blade: MSP Wizard
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BH: Neubauer ABS 1.8
On Saturdays and Sundays I have 2-hour group training sessions, and the partners all have strong forehand topspins. So by the end of the session I definitely notice the rubber getting a bit grippy. Here's the advantage though: attacking is sooooo much easier. I can counter attack even topspin balls, and with a power snap of the wrist those balls do not come back.

Makes me wonder: why not play like this all the time? It seemed to give the training partners a lot more trouble than pure spin reversal.


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PostPosted: 13 Feb 2017, 21:23 
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i thought about it too...

but its to inconsistent...because it really depends on what part of the rubber ball drops...if it drops on the muddy grippier part it will bounce different than on a good slicky part...so i end up missing some balls 2 meters out of the table and some into the net...if you like grippier anti, i think its best to change the anti...

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I must not fear. Fear is the mind-killer. Fear is the little death that brings total obliteration. I will face my fear. I will permit it to pass over me and through me. And when it has gone past I will turn my inner eye to see its path. Where the fear has gone there will be nothing. Only I will remain.


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PostPosted: 19 Feb 2017, 00:12 
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I've never used slick anti like this before. Can someone tell me exactly the best way of attaching it to the blade?
Do I need to varnish the blade?
Do I need glue?
A glue sheet?

Can someone explain exactly how to attach this best to my blade?

I'm getting it in 1.5mm sponge.

Thanks!


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PostPosted: 19 Feb 2017, 12:06 
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ridderz65 wrote:
I've never used slick anti like this before. Can someone tell me exactly the best way of attaching it to the blade?
Do I need to varnish the blade?
Do I need glue?
A glue sheet?

Can someone explain exactly how to attach this best to my blade?

I'm getting it in 1.5mm sponge.

Thanks!



After having done it several ways -- I think the general thought now is to attach it ONLY using a gluesheet - probably the butterfly glue sheet. Don't use the base glue to go on the blade (if you plan to remove it at any point, keeping it in good condition - these are prone to wrinkling severely when removing otherwise)


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PostPosted: 19 Feb 2017, 22:11 
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skilless_slapper wrote:
ridderz65 wrote:
I've never used slick anti like this before. Can someone tell me exactly the best way of attaching it to the blade?
Do I need to varnish the blade?
Do I need glue?
A glue sheet?

Can someone explain exactly how to attach this best to my blade?

I'm getting it in 1.5mm sponge.

Thanks!



After having done it several ways -- I think the general thought now is to attach it ONLY using a gluesheet - probably the butterfly glue sheet. Don't use the base glue to go on the blade (if you plan to remove it at any point, keeping it in good condition - these are prone to wrinkling severely when removing otherwise)


Do I need to varnish the blade before attaching with a butterfly glue sheet? Also, I've never used a glue sheet before. Do I stick the glue sheet to the blade and then roll the rubber on? Or do I stick the glue sheet to the rubber prior to attaching to the blade? How do I attach MB using a glue sheet? And do I varnish the blade?

Thanks


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