OOAK Table Tennis Forum

If you want good control for precise placements, you might want to go with ABS 3, as it has better control than ABS 2 Pro. I'm not sure if it has better reversal, as the comparisons are rather mixed and it also blade-dependent. I've also heard that the ABS 3 is like "blade-sensitive" in a sense that you really have to pair it with a rather stiff and hard blade to make use of it. The ABS 2 Pro hasn't got this problem as far as I know.
I've watched the video you put here and I have to say I like your style and you play quite well. I believe on long term you will be more disturbing with the pimples, as your opponent had a hard time dealing with your pimple hits.
If you want to attack with your flanti, the ABS 2 Pro is a good choice, as its speed gives you good attacking capabilities with a fair amount of control. Your blade would suit it pretty much perfectly, as this is the one Luka Mladenovic (the best antiier in the world) uses. As for the disruption, this is a flanti where you need to be active, passive gameplay will not make much use of it. For that purpose a DMS flanti might be better. If you could put a video here showing you playing with the flanti, we might have a better picture of what might be wrong.
The Super Glanti Black edition is so far the best flanti, reviewed by Andrea Aschi himself. It is like an ABS 2 Pro, but faster and harder to control with higher spin reversal and disruption.
The short pimples on forehand might work, but a grippy one you should have so you could put spin on it. I recommend the DMS Spinfire, overally positive reviews. But watch out for the technique, you will need shorter contacts with more opened angles. You will be able to topspin like with an inverted, but in the end of the day, it is a pimple, so watch out for that.

Unfortunately, I have to say that on long term you might be better with the pimples, as they give you more versatility and disruption. Some of the members here have made this decision, they went from flanti to pimples for similar reasons. Of course, this doesn't mean you can't be successful with anti, it is a matter of technique and skill.

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"Spin is my only way, haven't got else to say. Have you checked your anti? Let it all for you untie!"

Blade: Dr. Neubauer Matador (flared handle, 7-ply, allwood, OFF-)
Forehand Rubber: Butterfly Dignics09C (2.1 mm, black, hybrid)
Backhand Rubber: Der Materialspezialist Scandal (1.2 mm, red, frictionless)
Playing Style: Modern Defender

Thank you very much for the detailed answer. At the beginning of September I hope to resume table tennis, since I had to stop, first due to a wrist injury and finally due to a prostate operation. I have two Texa carbon blades so I can experiment better. I'll try to make a video with the ABS 2 Pro and I don't rule out buying the Black edition and/or the ABS 3. Thanks!!

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Dr. Neubauer Matador Texa Carbon Gewo Proton Neo 450 Dr. Neubauer Desperado Reloaded OX
YouTube Channel (follow please): https://www.youtube.com/@clubtenisdemesafuengirola

You are welcome! Should you have any further questions, feel free to ask me!

_________________
"Spin is my only way, haven't got else to say. Have you checked your anti? Let it all for you untie!"

Blade: Dr. Neubauer Matador (flared handle, 7-ply, allwood, OFF-)
Forehand Rubber: Butterfly Dignics09C (2.1 mm, black, hybrid)
Backhand Rubber: Der Materialspezialist Scandal (1.2 mm, red, frictionless)
Playing Style: Modern Defender

I highly endorse Sprinfire as a good pips to pair with anti. You can spin with, put good spin on serves, but it still has the flat hit capability of a short pip. The variation in pace and speed from the short pips (spinny or flat) and then from the anti (dead or spin reversal), has the chance of keeping your opponent confused. Sometime confuses me, too, but that's part of the game.

I am slowly realizing that something I read somewhere is probably true - any upward (fake loop) or downward (chop-block) or sideways (sideswipe) motion is pretty much smoke and mirrors with the anti, as it is all about the right racket angle and how much forward motion you use. It should simplify things, but getting the right angle is not always intuitive - yet.

A combination like this (short pimples + anti) was something I was thinking of myself too, but scratched the idea as the new season is too near and making such a drastic change (from inverted to short pimples) might be too much and dangerous. I already made a major change (from grippy anti to flanti) for the new season and that will be quite enough, along with the new blade.

On the other hand, I didn't scratch the idea ultimately. I will definitely try this Spinfire out. I wanted to try this summer, but was afraid of the technical changes as I'm very used to my inverted on forehand and want the spin only an inverted could do, but the short pimples has other benefits and characteristics the inverted doesn't have might come in handy. A trade-off I can smell.

A pretty rare and unique setup will that be, looking forward!

_________________
"Spin is my only way, haven't got else to say. Have you checked your anti? Let it all for you untie!"

Blade: Dr. Neubauer Matador (flared handle, 7-ply, allwood, OFF-)
Forehand Rubber: Butterfly Dignics09C (2.1 mm, black, hybrid)
Backhand Rubber: Der Materialspezialist Scandal (1.2 mm, red, frictionless)
Playing Style: Modern Defender

The change from inverted to Spinfire was not as drastic as I expected. I tried it on the recommendation from a friend who is a strong forehand RPB looper, and he thought it played quite similar. When I tried it, my basic loop stroke worked pretty much the same, though probably not quite as much spin, and I now had the added weapon of a pipsy (is that a word?) flat hit, especially on incoming pushes. It is probably somewhat blade dependent, as on the Matador, which is stiffer, the Spinfire is a tad faster and spinning is a bit harder to pull off. But still quite effective.

Yes, this is something you get from such a grippy short pips. I asked about its characteristics from Andrea Aschi and if it can be compared to a Tenergy (kinda strange isnt it). He told me the rubber has good grip and can be used well against backspin, as well as mini looping and putting your own spin and pace into the shots, but it is a short pimple, so the strokes must be shorther. Just the case you have mentioned. You do the very similar technique with the short pips as with the inverted, you get spin, but not the amount of spin as with an inverted. Not mentioning the flat hitting you started to use with that.

The change is not meant to be so drastic and major, so as in your case, as DMS deliberately designed that not to be so dramatic. Inverted players will adapt to it in a short time, of course who have sufficient technique.

I'm also keen on trying this rubber out, but the lower spin (compared to my Tenergy) and change in technique are things that keep me away from trying this. However, I don't know what the future might bring. I myself never thought that I would ever be playing with anti when I started playing in April 2022.

_________________
"Spin is my only way, haven't got else to say. Have you checked your anti? Let it all for you untie!"

Blade: Dr. Neubauer Matador (flared handle, 7-ply, allwood, OFF-)
Forehand Rubber: Butterfly Dignics09C (2.1 mm, black, hybrid)
Backhand Rubber: Der Materialspezialist Scandal (1.2 mm, red, frictionless)
Playing Style: Modern Defender

I had a new experience with my Diabolic Special. I played someone with really spinny and deceptive fast serves. I was expecting my flanti to handle these with little issue, but I kept burying them in the net or having them fly off the end of the table. The flanti reacted to the spin much more than I expected. The short, slower serves were not an issue, but the fast serves seemed to bite a bit into the flanti. Is this a characteristic of the Diabolic Special and something I have to adjust to, or common to all flantis? Any suggestions for handling these types of serves appreciated.

The flantis should not be spin-sensitive, only if they have gained some grip or humidity is too high. I don't know the Diabolic Special's characteristics, so can't make any explanation, only assumings for now. I assume if it is a flanti, it shouldn't be spin-sensitive. The case might be that you have got a malfunctioning one with some grip (maybe factory-issue). Not sure about the situation, the Diabolic experts will help you, maybe.

_________________
"Spin is my only way, haven't got else to say. Have you checked your anti? Let it all for you untie!"

Blade: Dr. Neubauer Matador (flared handle, 7-ply, allwood, OFF-)
Forehand Rubber: Butterfly Dignics09C (2.1 mm, black, hybrid)
Backhand Rubber: Der Materialspezialist Scandal (1.2 mm, red, frictionless)
Playing Style: Modern Defender

That was my experience, too, until those nasty, fast spinny serves, so it was not an issue with the rubber. Probably a bit is poor technique, as I am still adjusting, but I swear I could "feel" the spin reacting with the rubber. I wonder if it is something to do with the "Special" sponge under the Diabolic. If I drive the ball with a good bit of force, I can seem to generate some spin if I am going with the spin (i.e., drives on pushes and chops on topspin). Perhaps if the sponge is fully engaged, there is some spin reactivity, but if not engaged it is pure frictionless. Would be intriguing possibilities!. Looks like some experimentation is in order.

Either that, or I just suck with frictionless anti.

Yesterday I also experienced this strange spin-sensitive-like reaction once, but not more. From what I saw and felt, the touch and stroke with the flanti has to be as short as possible. The very powerful spins might have some effect on the flanti if you spend too much time on the ball, you mustn't. If you touch it a tad more than some milliseconds, it's going to react in a strange way. Try to make it just bounce from the topsheet, but not "stick" or "stay" or whatever. The drive or hitting like shots are good ways to do so, maybe chopping is still something I would try. Whatever the case, one should still be aware of the spin incoming, as different spins require different strokes. Even the flanti can be tricked by the incoming spin if strong enough. Unfortunately, the anti/flanti is not going to substitute the ability of handling incoming spin, it is only going to aid it. The other circumstance that is against this ability is the possible humidity or the fact the frictionless topsheet is slowly gaining grip that makes it more spin-sensitive (which I still don't know how is possible).
Also, these newer flantis are not that frictionless as they might seem. For example, I chop pretty much with my flanti and several times I could see the opponents pushing the ball into the net, meaning my chops had considerable spin, though there is no grip that would make the spin, theoratically. I think this is when the sponge comes into play, it gives some grip, but not the topsheet.

In conclusion, the flantis can be disruptive, both for the opponent and the user.

_________________
"Spin is my only way, haven't got else to say. Have you checked your anti? Let it all for you untie!"

Blade: Dr. Neubauer Matador (flared handle, 7-ply, allwood, OFF-)
Forehand Rubber: Butterfly Dignics09C (2.1 mm, black, hybrid)
Backhand Rubber: Der Materialspezialist Scandal (1.2 mm, red, frictionless)
Playing Style: Modern Defender

The softer and thicker a sponge is, the longer the contact time and spin. In a hard rubber with a hard sponge, the contact time is minimal. Soft rubbers are easier to control than hard ones...

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Dr. Neubauer Matador Texa Carbon Gewo Proton Neo 450 Dr. Neubauer Desperado Reloaded OX
YouTube Channel (follow please): https://www.youtube.com/@clubtenisdemesafuengirola

Yeah, I know that. Thus, a relatively hard flanti shouldn't be spin-sensitive, especially with a stiff and hard blade. The point is, the strokes has to be short and very minimal. This can either be supported by equipment or technique. This circumstance however reduces the amount of control you have over your flanti. It is a hard thing to master.

_________________
"Spin is my only way, haven't got else to say. Have you checked your anti? Let it all for you untie!"

Blade: Dr. Neubauer Matador (flared handle, 7-ply, allwood, OFF-)
Forehand Rubber: Butterfly Dignics09C (2.1 mm, black, hybrid)
Backhand Rubber: Der Materialspezialist Scandal (1.2 mm, red, frictionless)
Playing Style: Modern Defender

That is much what I have experienced. I know I still tend to stroke into the ball a bit more than is needed, and when the incoming ball has lots of speed, the spin reacts a bit more than I expect. If I try to minimize contact time and absorb some of the speed, the flanti effect is much more pronounced. I hope to learn to use that aspect to my advantage, rather than an annoyance. Especially in chopping, you can send various types of spin back depending on the stroke.