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PostPosted: 02 Mar 2010, 20:26 
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Blade: Trinity Carbon
FH: Victas VS > 401
BH: Dornenglanz OX
BladesByCharlie wrote:
haggisv wrote:
I think my main interest would be in combination blades. Something with a hard outer layer but slow (suitable for OX long pimples), and something more springy, softer and faster for the FH for a power looping (Chinese tacky rubber).


What sort of blade would you suggest for this Charlie?


hi haggisv, i have several 2-speed blades that i like to make. i would like you to try a Carbo-flex. i feel that i may have to handle considerations of yours that that brings to mind. so let me explain some about it and if i inadvertently confuse you just say so. most carbon blades have the fibers running up and across the blade, which doesn't lead to flex. the c-flex has fibers running diagonally and only in the middle of the wood layers, a center carbon only if you will. the intention was to make a bigger sweet spot and stabilize. on the 2-speed the balsa layers are different thicknesses, moving the carbon off center. by using different weight(density) for the balsa the relative speeds change. the thicker side is usually stiffer, harder, faster feeling, while the thinner flexes more,timing better with longer dwell rubbers. of the dozen or so that i have out some have mounted the rubber on the sides i suggest and then switched them and said they like
the alternate better. so, i've learned not to say that it has to be one way only.

i'm thinking oversized also but don't know your preference on size, weight and handle.
i will need your address and any "secrets" you might have on shipping and customs. looking forward to more on the subject and isn't it really fun! charlie


Thanks for the tips Charlie!

I'm not sure if Carbon will help at all, I usually perfer all wood which gives more feel, but if it's required to stop warping I understand.

I understand what you're saying about the balsa layers. I think the outer layers is something that can be tweaked. I'm thinking a thin and hard outer (walnet?), followed by a slow and softer to slow it down (abachi?) for the pimple side. The other side should perhaps be something like hinoki, to give it more spring?

I prefer a thicker rounded FL handle, and like my blades light and standard size.

Yes this is a lot of fun, glad to hear you're enjoying this as well!!!

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PostPosted: 09 Mar 2010, 04:31 
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I was on the BBC web site and I couldn't find any reference to the Double Diamond, unless I am missing it there, and if that is the case I apologize for my dumbness. But I was curious about the construction of the blade. it is a 7 ply blade, was wondering what the woods are that are used on the blade and what the blade is supposed to be good at, hitting, looping, etc.

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PostPosted: 09 Mar 2010, 05:50 
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Ranger-man wrote:
I was on the BBC web site and I couldn't find any reference to the Double Diamond, unless I am missing it there, and if that is the case I apologize for my dumbness. But I was curious about the construction of the blade. it is a 7 ply blade, was wondering what the woods are that are used on the blade and what the blade is supposed to be good at, hitting, looping, etc.
Ranger-man, The BBC Double Diamond is indeed a 7-ply blade and it should be appearing on the BBC website later this month, or as soon as Charlie can get a sample to the photographer. It features a 3-4mm Cypress core with its grain running perpendicular to the handle, and 1/16" Birch mini-ply skins (perhaps "hides" is more appropriate given their thickness). That Birch mini-ply is incredibly hard -- perhaps even harder than the BBC Anvil -- yet when married to the unconventional sideways grained core it produces a blade with an altogether unique feel and tone.

If you have ever jumped on a trampoline you know the feeling of being catapulted off the mat: You land, you sink into the mat while it stretches and the springs stretch, then you're launched upwards as the springs return to normal. This is the feeling you get when bouncing a ball on a bare Double Diamond blade. The ball lands on the blade, seems to hang there for a bit longer than you'd expect, and then it accelerates upwards unlike any other blade I've used. Make no mistake.. the Double Diamond is an OFF blade or better (depending on core thickness), but I'm not talking about raw bounce speed; rather, it's the non-linear acceleration, i.e. slow at first, then rapidly accelerating that is so unusual and makes this blade so fun to use.

Speaking of unusual, the tone of the Double Diamond is also something special. In a blade containing no carbon whatsoever, the DD sounds like a bell when you bounce the ball on it (and a loud bell at that!) and most of that ring is preserved even with max inverted rubber installed. This is not the "tink! tink!" of so many carbon blades; this is mid-pitched "doink! doink!" (sorry, getting a little nutty here). If you're the shy type who doesn't like attracting attention to himself in the gym then such a blade may not be for you. But if you like rubbers that click and blades that convey feedback at a well-hit ball, then the Double Diamond is the absolute cat's meow.

In play, the Double Diamond is a powerhouse, feeling dense and at the same time energetic (DDs weigh in the low 90s). That same catapult effect I described above is evident with every stroke, as balls leave your paddle with a unique non-linear -- but formidable -- acceleration. Struck balls have the unusual property of travelling low, fast, and long, only to hook violently downward at the end. So call it a low-throw blade. I'm completely taken with it, and so are the club players I've had try it.

Charlie swears that when returning my DD-struck balls that they feel somehow heavier than balls from my other paddles (all wear the same PME rubber). There's a 2200 player who coaches me at my club and when he smacks a ball with my DD it weaves through the air in a shallow but very disconcerting s-curve.. an effect I've never seen before and didn't even think was possible without LP.

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PostPosted: 10 Mar 2010, 04:57 
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Ok, I will open a thread for my initial remarks on the blade which will be restricted to my take after holding it in my hand and bouncing a ball on it without rubbers.

One more question please, do you mind if I seal the blade very lightly to avoid any splintering since I will probably be testing with 2 or 3 different rubbers.

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PostPosted: 10 Mar 2010, 07:06 
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Ranger-man wrote:
Ok, I will open a thread for my initial remarks on the blade which will be restricted to my take after holding it in my hand and bouncing a ball on it without rubbers.

One more question please, do you mind if I seal the blade very lightly to avoid any splintering since I will probably be testing with 2 or 3 different rubbers.
All BBC blades come sealed, though not with a shiny urethane type sealer that you might be expecting (perhaps Charlie will weigh in here with some insight into his sealing method and philosophy). Ranger-man, I think you received a Double Diamond, which afaik is already extremely durable and splinter resistant. Mahogany skinned blades, on the other hand, require a little more care with regards to splintering, i.e. always remove rubber at a 45* angle to the blade's grain.

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PostPosted: 10 Mar 2010, 09:19 
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You are right Nathan, the blade does look very hardy and quite resistant to splintering. I have never had any problems with splinters even when I did not used to seal my blades because I have always been very careful while peeling off rubbers but now I seal them anyway, if for no other reason then to keep them looking shiny and new for as long as possible and to keep them safe from the effects of moisture in the air and water in the glue.

Cole of colestt also seals his blades in a way that you can't really tell that it is sealed, so quite possibly it is already sealed.

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PostPosted: 10 Mar 2010, 11:23 
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Ranger-man wrote:
You are right Nathan, the blade does look very hardy and quite resistant to splintering. I have never had any problems with splinters even when I did not used to seal my blades because I have always been very careful while peeling off rubbers but now I seal them anyway, if for no other reason then to keep them looking shiny and new for as long as possible and to keep them safe from the effects of moisture in the air and water in the glue.

Cole of colestt also seals his blades in a way that you can't really tell that it is sealed, so quite possibly it is already sealed.



hi Ranger-man, i'm glad you got the blade so quickly. about the sealing of blades; it was always considered illegal (ittf) to change the surface of your wooden blade, some would put fingernail polish on to prevent wood loss when removing rubber. it was found that reglued rubber played very much better with this harder surface. i searched and searched until i found the best penetrating sealer that would leave legal wood on the surface and still protect from splintering and keep the blade legal. so... thanks nathanso for telling all that all of BBC's blades are sealed. more later, charlie

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PostPosted: 15 Mar 2010, 15:50 
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All BBC test blades have now shipped out, with most going out two weeks ago, a few more last week, and the All Around last (due to a materials shortage). So I'm checking in with those who have yet to post anything.. have you received your blade yet?

debraj -- Matt's Dream*
rodderz -- Fiddler
Beer Belly -- CarboFlex Alpha

Domestic shipments should have reached you in 2-3 days; international in 6-10 days.

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PostPosted: 15 Mar 2010, 19:19 
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Haven't got it yet.

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PostPosted: 15 Mar 2010, 20:00 
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nathanso wrote:
All BBC test blades have now shipped out, with most going out two weeks ago, a few more last week, and the All Around last (due to a materials shortage). So I'm checking in with those who have yet to post anything.. have you received your blade yet?

debraj -- Matt's Dream*
rodderz -- Fiddler
Beer Belly -- CarboFlex Alpha

Domestic shipments should have reached you in 2-3 days; international in 6-10 days.

Mines here and im the roof trying it ,then ill try it with a cat :up:
Im away for a few days so ill post then but its a beautiful looking blade

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PostPosted: 18 Mar 2010, 07:30 
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I received the CarboFlex! First chance to play is this Sunday.

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PostPosted: 22 Mar 2010, 12:49 
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Charlie wanted me to announce pricing for two upcoming blade models that you'll soon be seeing on the BBC website and which were part of the current round of testing:

Double Diamond: $65.00
Matt's Dream: $115.00

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PostPosted: 13 Apr 2010, 13:46 
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The 21-day blade testing period has come to a close. Thanks to all who participated or expressed interest! Charlie is very appreciative of the time each of you spent and the valuable comments put forth.

Blade testers should return the test blade to BBC at the address listed here: http://www.bladesbycharlie.com/by-mail Alternately, testers may opt to purchase the test blade at 50% off the prices listed here: http://www.bladesbycharlie.com/Online-Store Payments should be via Paypal so if you intend to buy the blade I'll need your email address to which I'll issue a Paypal invoice.

Some testers have already returned or purchased their test blade, but we have yet to hear from the following:

rodderz -- Fiddler
Skippy -- Three-ply Cypress

Please PM me regarding your choice.

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PostPosted: 16 Apr 2010, 01:38 
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BBC blade testers,

I am compiling rubber compatibility lists for each of the BBC blades for publication on the BBC website. Please post your findings here on which rubber(s) you tried on the BBC test blade and how well each worked.

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PostPosted: 20 Jan 2011, 06:25 
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Newly registered user here, but I looked over this thread and wanted to put in my vote for Charlie and his products.
I have played, or at least tried nearly every blade variation he's come up with since the mid 80's
I can't really review the 2 speed, defensive, or the other models that don't suit my game style, but I have to say something about the
9-10-9, and the custom variant 7-8-7.

Since the mid 80's he's made many variations that many were not right for my style, but some were specifically made for me.
I think it became a challenge for him to find something that would get me off the long unavailable Banda Waldner Offensive series from the 80's and 90's that I preferred.
Regardless of whether a particular blade suited me or not, the thought and skill he put into them was always remarkable.

Now down to business, the current 9-10-9 model is an outstanding design. Someday this will be a sought after but hard to find classic blade.
I don't see the "cobra" shape on his site, but that's what he's made for me.
Currently I am playing two variants on the 9-10-9.
Two handle shapes, a tapered conic (CT) 85 grams, and a square taper (ST) 78 grams, "Cobra" head ( similar to the Banda Waldner).

He's made many fine blades over the years, but this 9-10-9 design and the variation he made for me, 7-8-7
These are without doubt in my mind, his finest products to date for an all around top spinning or power looping game.
I preferred wood blades, but these work for me because the are not rigid and hard feeling like a typical carbon blade.
The touch over the table, the dwell time, and speed are just right. The handles are beautifully finished.

Charlie will continue to design blades, but I think it's going to be a long time before these are surpassed.
"BladesByCharlie", is not a mass production company.
He pays attention to a level of detail you will not get from a commercial product.
If you are even considering trying his blades, get what you want while it's available.
Then if you like it, get a backup.


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