OOAK Table Tennis Forum

Hi,

I am replacing a rubber for a Single Sided Chinese Penhold player. We have selected one which he likes but it is lighter than he is used to.

What can I legally do with the bare side to add a small amount of weight ?

At present it is bare wood with black paint on. Do colour sheets have any thickness .... what are they made of ? Can I layer 2 or 3 of them ?

Could I add a thin layer of cork just in area where fingers rest (like Japanese Penhold). If I do this, does the painted black area need to be same surface level as the cork finger rest area i.e. all one level ? Can I stick thin layer of cork all over and then paint part of it black again ?

Any other ingenious and legal suggestions ?

I am looking to add 5 to 10g tops ..... just a small bit of fine tuning.

Totally inexperienced with penholds ......

Thanks

Cork sheet works fine but has little mass.

Bit of lead tape under the colour sheet or under side tape.

I use small piece lead tape under colour sheet.

Cork and colour do not have to be flush.

Very few people can detect a 5g difference in mass, 10g perhaps.

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Yasaka Single Ply Hinoki Cpen (8mm) - Yasaka Original Soft (1.0mm)

You can buy a cheap (black) rubber and glue it. If you want it lighter, choose thin sponge, and if you want it heavier, choose max. Adding cork will not add the weight significantly because cork is a very light material.

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Expert II crwi C-Pen
Red Acuda P1

A sponged rubber of any kind will add more than 10g. Just a sheet of Ox pips of the cheapest variety you can find will do it.

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Yes, I was also thinking this. A sponged rubber is too heavy so a cheap OX long pip with a large flat logo area at the bottom would work. I can detect 2 g differences immediately, as can he, so it will make a difference. I'll have a look at ITTF equip list for big, flat logo's on their scans / pics.

Is a colour sheet just sticky back vinyl ?

Thanks for info ..... I'll think about these options as well. Where do you put your lead tape if you put it under the colour sheet ?

Close to bottom edge (handle). Mass added further out changes balance of bat.

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Yasaka Single Ply Hinoki Cpen (8mm) - Yasaka Original Soft (1.0mm)

Adding another rubber or adding anything can alter the feel and characteristics of the bat.
I would recommend getting another bat and specifying the weight when ordering.

I would recommend to glue OX LP or Dr Evil gluing it right from the handle so the balance stays practically unchanged (if you want to move balance to the head, just glue it firther from the handle, more into the hand - cut the logo area as short as possible). Having pips on the backside has two advantages - you have good grip for your back fingers as they don't get that sweaty and you can use pips for occasional hits, especially non-standard service returns ).

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Xiom Zetro Quad CPen - Tibhar Evolution MX-P, RITC 563

I just use an old sheet of thin OX, no sponge of course. That's usually more than enough for 10 grams, or even more depending on the size. I cut this to the size I want and just glue it near the handle. I prefer this to lead tape around the edges because - maybe it is just me - lead tape makes me feel the bat becomes blade heavy. I prefer it balanced, or the other way around.

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1-ply Hinoki Club
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I learn from the way Yoshida Kaii do with his blade. Sticking a big square piece of white sponge at the back. I find fingers touching bare wood is simply too slippery and always scratch and damage the black paint. Adding a piece of sponge is the perfect solution for me.

For backside treatment, YinHe makes a very nice self adhesive color foam pad.

It's cheap, durable and best of all helps protect your blade from any nicks on the table.

http://www.megaspin.net/store/default.a ... olor-sheet

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Stiga Clipper Classic
FH - TSP Spectol Red 2.0
BH - Dawei 388D-a 1.5

I have used one of those self-sticking foam sheet before. They look fine but not durable around the finger area. Also you have to be extra careful if you want to remove it one day. They stick much stronger than normal rubber gluing and can damage your blade face easy.

Good to know. I should have prefaced my statement in that I have jpen and where my fingers are on the back, they're always touching cork. Never this foam sheet.

I've removed this foam sheet once before from another jpen I had. Didn't have any problems. But I always seal my blades first thing when I get them. Don't know if that helped me or not.

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Stiga Clipper Classic
FH - TSP Spectol Red 2.0
BH - Dawei 388D-a 1.5

I agree with both of TurboZ's warnings.

On the back of a jpen where it won't be touched or removed, it goes beautifully with cork.
But I still wouldn't mount it on bare wood. Maybe put down a layer of rubber cement first.