OOAK Table Tennis Forum

How could the cork handle be taken off on a Jpen blade and put on another without causing damage?

Use a cutting knife..i often do it on the back cork.

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Still Missing the Speed Glue

I put in a question about this a months back. we need a youtube big time to teach use how to take off, glue and shape a new handle

I think I can make this video. Maybe after mid term test I'll find some cheap or used blade to be the experimental subject. It might be a strange method, but it works like charm

I've tried it once on my Y-4 blade, and make a hollow hole in the handle part (I'm a big fan of hollow handles LoL)

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Back to 7 ply allwood, no more composites for now

Hurricane 3 Neo

Still looking for some short pips with the softest sponge available, preferably something with a LOUD speed-glue-effect sound

Whack and Loop for eternity

You're the man! Could you include the type of glue and where you get your cork replacements

I am terribly sorry. I still have no time to make any video, and I haven't found any Jpen blade (actually I've done it only on a shakehand blade) to be the operation subject to redeem my sins, I'll try to make it simple. The main objective is to soften up the glue layer, and slip something thin to perfectly detach the handle from the blade

Things we need :
1. Hairdryer, or heat gun. I believe it is faster if you use heat gun.
2. Razor knife. Doesn't need to be sharp though.
3. Veneer glue to re-attach the handle, such as elmer's etc. I don't have any access to that glue, so I use polivinyl carbonate glue which can be found easier in any construction store here.

Things to do :
1. heat the handle area with hairdryer/heat gun to soften up the glue. Heat it up from the upper side of the handle more than the side, or you might soften glue layers in the blade ply.
2. Look for any small crevaces, openings, etc (or should we say 'cleavege' to make it sounds more fun LoL) between the handle and blade area. If nothing shows up, keep heating it.
3. Once you found any 'cleavage', slip the razor knife in it, try to slip it up and downward softly. It it won't budge/move, keep heating it up again, and keep trying to slip it.

And voila, you'll have your handle detached perfectly without any damage

Hmmmm.....to replace the cork, I think you should try to look for any corkwood.

Hope this can help, and mostly, I'm hoping I can have more spare time to make the video

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Back to 7 ply allwood, no more composites for now

Hurricane 3 Neo

Still looking for some short pips with the softest sponge available, preferably something with a LOUD speed-glue-effect sound

Whack and Loop for eternity

If it's the white carpenter's glue (it's also sold as glue for paper and styrofoam in bookstores and craft shops) then it's actually Polyvinyl Acetate (PVA). Lots of brand names - Elmer's Glue-all, UHU Coll, etc. The yellow wood glues (e.g. Titebond) are PVA with fillers. PVA melts at high temperature, which means it can be detached and reattached. It also means you shouldn't use it to attach model rocket fins. One neat trick, if you're applying veneer strip to wood when making furniture is to put PVA on both sides, allow it to dry, then use a hot clothes iron to attach the veneer.

By the way, I think most table tennis blades are made using some sort of hot melt adhesive, applied to the wood using a mechanical roller. The blade is then laminated together in a heated press. See the Butterfly how-its-made video on YouTube and the Yinhe web site's forum. Not sure what they use to stick on Japanese Penhold handles but whatever it is it seems it's heat sensitive, too.

Iskandar

Yep. And somehow the adhesive used to attach topsheet to sponge behaves similarly. I wonder if I can make the pva glue thinner....

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Back to 7 ply allwood, no more composites for now

Hurricane 3 Neo

Still looking for some short pips with the softest sponge available, preferably something with a LOUD speed-glue-effect sound

Whack and Loop for eternity

To thin PVA glue, just add water and stir!

Iskandar