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PostPosted: 21 Jan 2016, 02:50 
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Would it be a bad idea to buy a shakehand blade and cut the handle so that it can be used for penhold?
Is it effective to use rpb on a japanese penhold blade as it is on a chinese penhold blade?


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PostPosted: 21 Jan 2016, 03:44 
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PostPosted: 21 Jan 2016, 04:25 
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I've cut down shakehands handles many times. Semi large shakehands rackets are some of the best candidates to cut the handle, since the standard size* penholder racket actually has a slightly bigger head pattern than a standard shakehands head. The old Matsushita Pro was perfect for cutting down because the head was semi-large and the handle lens was placed high enough that cutting the handle does not damage it. It is also quite slow, but Gao Jun did okay with one.

All this head size stuff is not that critical, you can cut down any racket, but I'd advise playing with the racket penholder style first for a while with the long handle before doing any cutting. But do save the cut off part, you can glue it back on again in a pinch. I've done that too !

The average handle lens is unfortunately right where the cut should go for a penholder handle, but just saw through the lens and all and sand it all smooth. More and more handles are hollow these days.
If hollow just make a very thin little disk of wood glued on as a cover and sanded flush if you don't like looking at the holes in the end.

* If you are imagining that cutting down a Jukie Brand "Model XII" shakehands racket will make it exactly like the Jukie Brand "Model XII" penholder racket, most often it won't.
The penholder model in most cases has a different head size than it's shakehands brother and not simply a shorter handle. In some cases the penholder even has different wood layers (for example the Juic Kalinic)

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PostPosted: 21 Jan 2016, 04:41 
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fleetwood999 wrote:
I've cut down shakehands handles many times. Semi large shakehands rackets are some of the best candidates to cut the handle, since the standard size* penholder racket actually has a slightly bigger head pattern than a standard shakehands head. The old Matsushita Pro was perfect for cutting down because the head was semi-large and the handle lens was placed high enough that cutting the handle does not damage it. It is also quite slow, but Gao Jun did okay with one.

All this head size stuff is not that critical, you can cut down any racket, but I'd advise playing with the racket penholder style first for a while with the long handle before doing any cutting. But do save the cut off part, you can glue it back on again in a pinch. I've done that too !

The average handle lens is unfortunately right where the cut should go for a penholder handle, but just saw through the lens and all and sand it all smooth. More and more handles are hollow these days.
If hollow just make a very thin little disk of wood glued on as a cover and sanded flush if you don't like looking at the holes in the end.

* If you are imagining that cutting down a Jukie Brand "Model XII" shakehands racket will make it exactly like the Jukie Brand "Model XII" penholder racket, most often it won't.
The penholder model in most cases has a different head size than it's shakehands brother and not simply a shorter handle. In some cases the penholder even has different wood layers (for example the Juic Kalinic)

Thanks
How big is semi large? Is the handle lens the plastic thing with the name of the blade?


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PostPosted: 21 Jan 2016, 09:07 
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Your average defensive style blade is semi-large nowadays. True large class blades aren't very common any more. Good catalogs usual tell you the length and width of the blade.
For example a Butterfly Joo blade is considered semi-large. It measures 165 mm long by 155 mm wide whereas a typical offensive blade like a Butterfly Timo Boll is 157 mm by 150 mm.

Generally semi-large will mean the blade is roughly 5 or 6 millimeters wider and/or longer than the typical offensive blade.

Right, the lens is just the plastic piece with the model name. They sometimes pop loose when cut. You can glue it back or fill the hole with wood putty, etc..

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PostPosted: 28 Jan 2016, 15:57 
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I tried cutting a photino butterfly and I could never get the handle to fit as well as my regular penholds. wasted some bucks there. but I wanted the carbon fiber at the time.

they make double sided jph blades so it can rpb can be done and I've seen one video of the hundreds of jph players using one. jph are mostly Koreans and one can see how many jph's there are in the present world rankings.


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PostPosted: 24 May 2016, 14:20 
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Late to the party, but I jumped from cpen to cpen until i wound up cutting down the handles of most of my blades from FL shakes.

1) preferred the balance of a standard sized sh
2) narrower handle
3) I also tended to sand the bottom half of the handle down.

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PostPosted: 25 May 2016, 20:16 
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I imagine a Dremel tool with a sanding drum would be a good thing to have here...

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PostPosted: 26 May 2016, 12:56 
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Tried that a few times but the diameter was a bit small
usually went back to a variety of curved objects that worked for the various bits - and wrapping 100-800 grit around it.
And a jigsaw to lop off the end.

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PostPosted: 01 Aug 2016, 04:27 
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Blade: loukov blade
FH: rakza 7 2 mm
BH: nittaku pimple mini 1 mm
I rather like a shakehand handle cutted off too. Handle is narrower and seems more confortable to me for traditional backhand. Thus my actuel blade is "cornilleau all+" cutted off. And according to the fact that handle is hollow, my bat is very light ! ( 96 grammes )


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PostPosted: 16 Aug 2016, 10:11 
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Blade: Darker Speed90 CP
FH: Prov H3
BH: Andro Beat
I am a big fan of hinoki blades. I have used Darker Speed90 JPen for two-wing loop. The weight is near the tip of the blade therefore it's a loop monster. Very explosive. The downside is that it's hard on your wrist. The distribution of weight is not that comfortable.

In contrast my CPen version of Darker Speed90 has a more balanced distribution of weight, therefore more comfortable for RPB. But less power.

Both blades are nearly 100g. In an analogy, JPen is like swinging a hammer. CPen is like swing a sword. Both are good for RPB. It's a choice between comfort and power.


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PostPosted: 16 Aug 2016, 11:12 
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I have also cut my shakehand blades for penhold but I wonder how a real penhold feels/plays. There SHOULD be a difference that is why I'm planning to order this:
http://www.greenpaddle.com/products/skitt-t3-hinoki
It's so cheap, good for experimentation. 90g according to the seller. Now I'm wondering if my DHS H2 and Globe 999 will play good with it. Or should I use soft rubbers like LKT XP and the likes.

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PostPosted: 16 Aug 2016, 21:11 
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Blade: Darker Speed90 CP
FH: Prov H3
BH: Andro Beat
j2sip wrote:
I have also cut my shakehand blades for penhold but I wonder how a real penhold feels/plays. There SHOULD be a difference that is why I'm planning to order this:
http://www.greenpaddle.com/products/skitt-t3-hinoki
It's so cheap, good for experimentation. 90g according to the seller. Now I'm wondering if my DHS H2 and Globe 999 will play good with it. Or should I use soft rubbers like LKT XP and the likes.


Assuming H2 for FH, Globe999 would be too tacky for BH. 729 snipe III would be perfect for BH, high control and not that slow.

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PostPosted: 16 Aug 2016, 21:16 
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j2sip wrote:
Now I'm wondering if my DHS H2 and Globe 999 will play good with it..


Unless the blade is real light it would be a very heavy setup. But, perhaps you like it that way... :P

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PostPosted: 17 Aug 2016, 11:18 
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With my current setup in my signature, the Globe 999 1.8mm (weighed it: 35g) is fine for backhand as it has a medium soft sponge. I might buy a black one for the Adidas bat replacing the heavy H3neo and putting down the weight from 153-155ish to less than 150g. Lighter setups sure makes RPB a bit easier to execute.

I decided to stick with my current setup and forego acquiring a proper penhold blade.

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