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 Post subject: Bat and Rubber Questions
PostPosted: 06 Sep 2016, 05:55 
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Hi everyone! I'm a recreation pen-grip player who has always used handshake bats to play. Recently, I've played more often and decided to try out bats designed for pen-hold. I am shocked at how much easier it is to play with an actual pen-hold bat. I bought two premade bats with one being CPEN and other being JPEN. I tend to play a more Chinese style grip (I've even had success with a RBP) so I spent more on the CPEN bat. The JPEN bat I thought would be a novelty and I bought it more out of curiosity. Surprisingly, I like the feel of it much more. I bought the Butterfly ADDOY-P20. It's extremely light and I loved using it with the exception of one problem. I can't seem to block the ball over the net. It tends to die on the bat and doesn't spring over like expected. This bat is very light as are most JPEN bats, so I am wondering if this is something that is normal to the grip or is it the bat itself? I play in recreational games so as you can imagine, the block is a game changer in many games. People tend to make mistakes on the offensive strokes. Any input is appreciated.


My other question is about my CPEN bat rubber. The DHS rubber has a number in the lower right hand corner. These numbers are different on the black side and the red side. The red side has 24-018 while the black side has 24-108. What do these numbers mean? I would like to know as I tend to play traditional CPEN without RBP (unless I have it dialed in, in that case I use a lot of RBP). I am trying to figure out which side would play better with my style.


Thanks everyone I appreciate the help!


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PostPosted: 06 Sep 2016, 06:10 
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How long have you played with both bats? give it time, more often than not, once you adapt to the weight and hold u might find out what adjustment to make with power or angle you nee to put in on a set of play

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PostPosted: 06 Sep 2016, 06:19 
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penhold45 wrote:
The red side has 24-018 while the black side has 24-108. What do these numbers mean?


24 is the ITTF LARC supplier number for DHS. 018 is "888" - a traditional spinny, tacky rubber. 108 is Hurricane 3 - a more modern equivalent. Both excellent rubbers.

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PostPosted: 06 Sep 2016, 08:12 
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your jpen back hand may not be the rubber. the usual jpen backhand is more like a punch.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RuI3kKJSUUU

sorry I still cant imbed

I have a yasaka and xiom both hinoki wood. they are lighter and on my backhand I need to punch hard to get the zip on my backhand compared to a forehand one can swing.


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PostPosted: 06 Sep 2016, 12:15 
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Thank you all for your replies.


kim biceps: I have no played much at all and I wondered if that was the case. I am checking for clarification as if it is the rubber, I plan on purchasing a new JPEN.


LordCope: Thank you for the information! I finally have been able to look them up online which makes things much easier. I still have questions though, if they are basically the same, then why did they bother using both instead of just one type? The amazon description seems to indicate that the 888 is for medium to far looping while the hurricane 3 is for close table looping. Do these descriptions hold any weight?

TableTennisDoc: I've seen this before and had it in mind as I was playing and struggling to block. When I started playing long ago, I chose penhold because of how naturally blocking came to me. I've never had trouble blocking with many different types of handshake bats and rubbers i've used over the years. This was a unique and new problem and I wondered if it's just the way the Jpen blade plays. I remember watching this video and found his blocking technique a little odd. Do JPENS normally have less spring than a shake-hand or CPEN blade?

I appreciate the help guys.


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PostPosted: 06 Sep 2016, 12:38 
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Any light bat will have less power. Blocks will travel less. That is good when blocking hard loops. Just have to get used to it. :)


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PostPosted: 07 Sep 2016, 02:38 
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Post photos of the Addoy Japanese Penhold - I've never seen one. All the old, cheap Butterfly Japanese penhold blades in the 1970s (with cork handles) were called "Biriba", if I recall correctly. All the Addoys I've seen so far are shakehands. (The original Addoy, back in the 1970s, was quite bad...)

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PostPosted: 07 Sep 2016, 03:46 
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Addoy P20, here it is...
https://www.amazon.com/Butterfly-Addoy-P20-tennis-thickness-pen-holder/dp/B00M375O72

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PostPosted: 08 Sep 2016, 01:49 
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Huh... whaddya know. A one ply. These look a lot fancier than the old Biriba bats, too (I think those were cheap 5 ply).

There's also an Addoy P40 and a Pan Asia P10 (this is quite expensive - $70). All are one ply. I'll bet they're not Kiso hinoki, but might indeed be cheaper cuts of hinoki (note the diagonal annual rings). Grain looks too coarse, though, on the P20. Note the rubbers have protector sheets on them (which makes me guess they're tacky and Chinese).

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PostPosted: 08 Sep 2016, 11:35 
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I wonder why hinoki doesn't translate well into shakehand blades though, or does it?

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PostPosted: 08 Sep 2016, 14:21 
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One ply hinoki? They do exist but aren't that common. The main problem is weight - one ply hinoki blades are thick (8-12mm usually), the blade is quite heavy. Traditional Japanese penhold uses one sheet of rubber, if you glue two sheets it's going to be really heavy. Shakehands uses two sheets of rubber, it's going to be heavy by default.

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PostPosted: 08 Sep 2016, 14:35 
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iskandar taib wrote:
One ply hinoki? They do exist but aren't that common. The main problem is weight - one ply hinoki blades are thick (8-12mm usually), the blade is quite heavy. Traditional Japanese penhold uses one sheet of rubber, if you glue two sheets it's going to be really heavy. Shakehands uses two sheets of rubber, it's going to be heavy by default.

Iskandar


The reason I tried yinhe ayous J1 last time was the interest in one ply wood, but i failed miserably in controlling the blade (heavy and a tad slow in my opinion), if yinhe were to make 1 ply hinoki shakehand i bet i would try it too haha (cheap and you know, why not?)

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PostPosted: 08 Sep 2016, 17:35 
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Oh yeah? You mean like this? :lol:

http://old.eacheng.net/index.php?act=detail&ID=1887

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92 grams - it's heavy but not THAT heavy. $220+ - expensive but not that expensive... :lol:

Incidentally, the new Eacheng.net website seems to be based on aliexpress software - it's got very much the same look and feel.

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PostPosted: 08 Sep 2016, 18:05 
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iskandar taib wrote:
Oh yeah? You mean like this? :lol:

http://old.eacheng.net/index.php?act=detail&ID=1887

Image

92 grams - it's heavy but not THAT heavy. $220+ - expensive but not that expensive... :lol:

Incidentally, the new Eacheng.net website seems to be based on aliexpress software - it's got very much the same look and feel.

Iskandar



haha dude no way i'm buying that! Is there a thread on one plies only review?

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PostPosted: 09 Sep 2016, 16:30 
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Not that I know of. Yinhe does sell some nice 5, 7 and 9 ply Kiso Hinoki blades. I've got three Kiso 7s. Very, very hard to find, but Tenryu will order you one if you ask. Takes a couple months at least. About USD60 or so. They're made in Taiwan, not at Yinhe's factory - I'll bet the one ply is, also. There's someone making them in Taiwan and they're sold by several companies, I think. Or there was several years back (don't see them on the market any more). The other source of nice Hinoki blades is Darker (Presports has/had some in stock - I bought one).

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