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PostPosted: 15 May 2010, 00:21 
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Well, I got my new paddle yesterday and tried it out at the club. It has medium pips on one side and short on the other, even though I didn't much like the idea of different rubbers on the paddle.

While using the medium pips side, both my forehand and backhand attacks were quicker, more consistent, and generally better than they've ever been compared to inverted, and even my blocking was unchanged, but the short pips side, just like short pips I tried with another paddle, had little control, floated all over the place, an I could barely return topspin, much less when it was intense. A completely different short pip, but the same problem.

Why is it that I can hit and block with both inverted rubber and possibly even better with medium pips, but short pips lose me the point almost every time? Are short pips meant to be used in a different way entirely? Is it because there is no sponge on either side of the paddle and the medium pips provide the necessary 'give'?

Any tips would be appreciated.

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PostPosted: 15 May 2010, 05:34 
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abdulmuhsee wrote:
Well, I got my new paddle yesterday and tried it out at the club. It has medium pips on one side and short on the other, even though I didn't much like the idea of different rubbers on the paddle.

While using the medium pips side, both my forehand and backhand attacks were quicker, more consistent, and generally better than they've ever been compared to inverted, and even my blocking was unchanged, but the short pips side, just like short pips I tried with another paddle, had little control, floated all over the place, an I could barely return topspin, much less when it was intense. A completely different short pip, but the same problem.

Why is it that I can hit and block with both inverted rubber and possibly even better with medium pips, but short pips lose me the point almost every time? Are short pips meant to be used in a different way entirely? Is it because there is no sponge on either side of the paddle and the medium pips provide the necessary 'give'?

Any tips would be appreciated.


Having no sponge makes a huge difference. Generally softer sponges around the 1.5mm work best with short pimples. What rubbers are you using? (name and brand.)

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PostPosted: 15 May 2010, 06:02 
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Hallmark Magic Pips and Hallmark Panther; the Panther is what I'm doing well with, maybe because it has a bit more give to it without the sponge than the Magic Pips.

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PostPosted: 15 May 2010, 07:15 
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It takes about a year to get used to this type me rubbers together. You gotta adjust everytime with the face of your blade on incoming balls.

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PostPosted: 15 May 2010, 08:37 
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Yes, I'm hating that aspect of it as well having to adjust every time.

What would be the best OX pips for blocking against topspin and smashes? Hallmark claimed that Magic Pips "gave good effect when blocking against topspin", though to me, it was terrible. I would like a short pip to to its hardness and durability, so I'm loathe to go with medium pips because I'm afraid they'll get messed up or break off. Doesn't that happen quite a bit with longer and/or skinnier pips?

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PostPosted: 15 May 2010, 09:08 
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Have you checked out the hardbat section?? viewforum.php?f=47
What thickness are you using and what blade?

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PostPosted: 15 May 2010, 10:11 
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I did check out the hardbat section, but didn't find info about close-to-the-table blocking.

I'm using a Tibhar Smash currently, but I also tried with a Galaxy J-1 with similar results. The short pips on the Smash are Magic Pips OX and the J-1 are Galaxy Uranus OX, both of them being short, very wide pips. Both caused me to make the ball grow wings and float gingerly off the table.

Could the wideness of the pips be the problem (well, MY problem anyways), as the Hallmark Panther OX I could block with, and had much skinnier pips, but also a tad longer (not by much) and more flexible.

Would a hardbat rubber like Butterfly Orthodox give me the blocking properties I needed, i.e. - passive off-the-bounce blocking based on racket position and angle?

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