OOAK Table Tennis Forum

Thanks that's exactly what I needed

Everything about your blades is simply beautiful. Though I've never used a balsa core blade, I would love to test one out if you ever decide to send them out. I'm sure I could have the people at my local club toss in your opinions too.

Hi All, my first post was in 'Is it Legal' but cut short I live in london and work in a picture framers where the staff have all got really into table tennis, I enjoy playing but not as much as I do making things... Ross, your blades are really nice, and the handle jig is very clever. I had been thinking for a while about making some myself and your in depth talk through the process has inspired me to get on with it. Unfortunately I don't really have much skill when it comes to playing table tennis but the popularity of the sport in London this sumer makes it enjoyable none the less. I've not looked too hard but finding wide enough Balsa has proved tricky, so for the time being I'm using 3mm light ply (1mm tulip, 1mm balsa, 1mm tulip) either side of a piece of veneer. It seems to be light and rigid but damages easily.

I don't have a vacum press but lots of clamps and 2 pieces of 25mm mdf are ok to use instead. I took a picture of a nicely shaped Butterfly blade from the web and traced it with a little tweak and based the size on a very cheep Dunlop bat I have. Luckily I have a friend who uses a lazer cutter and she was kind and cut the template from 5mm perspex for me. The light ply tore out a bit on the router table so I may joint some solid balsa in the future and face with 2 layers of veneer.

The veneer used between the light ply in this first blade is 0.6mm cherry. I can try and get some pictures of the handle detail technique soon but I am alway too eager to finish the shaping to take any that show how it's achieved.

I just put some very cheep rubbers on it (Palio training and Bombard tension) they are tacky and better than the rubbish bats we use but seem to be too fast for me and also very heavy. This blade was 73g before they went on so advice on good starter rubber that isn't so fast or heavy would be handy!

The handle is Lime with Utile strips either side of a slip of Cherry veneer. I rounded it too much and also the top splay is too long so it's come out small. Lesons learnt though! Hopefully this is inspiring for others like Ross' was for me.

Adam

Here's a little detail on my latest blade. It's totally experimental and not ITTF legal! It consists of a 4mm Obeche/ American Black Walnut inner ply with Cherry and Walnut face veneer. The two inner woods are jointed with a loose tongue and groove to aid bonding and increase rigidity. They are very different woods and the Obeche shaves a little weight and hopefully offers a bit more control. I have a soft spot for Walnut, everything about it appeals to me, I hope it plays well.



For the handle I've tried to take some more weight off the blade by hollowing it where I could. It feels quite balanced but light rubber will be key I guess as it is top heavy now already. There is a Wenge and Cherry detail in the handle too.


I'll post more detailed photos once it's all together. Any advice or feedback would be great to hear.
Thanks, Adam

I love the elegant and subtle handle decoration, makepaddle.

If you ever consider taking requests for purchase, I'd be the first to bite.

how do you get that smooth blade finish after the cutting? lots of sandpapering or what? also you have really got to do a full tutorial for the handles, they are just superb

Great ideas, both. I know of a couple of bladesmiths who have used similar technology The keyholes in the tang of the blade morphed to changeable weight for Mark Bellamy of yltonline.co.uk. Reducing the weight in the grips allowed Bernie Hock of Hock TT fame to produce a hardbat with a total weight (including rubber) of only four ounces.

Your workmanship is a lovely thing to behold.
tOD

From what I have tried myself, you can expect to get a more Hard or crisp feeling, quick take off, and lower dwell time, type of blade with walnut in the outside plies.

Thank you for the responses, when I next make a handle I'll take some pictures to show how it's done. Nothing too complicated. After the blade is routed out the edges do need to be sanded, but if the machine is at the right speed and the cutters are sharp then the finish should be good and only a little will be needed. The face veneer doesn't need much sanding at all, just a light brush with 320 grit really.
The Walnut and Obeche blade is much nicer to play with than the first attempt, mainly due to the rubbers I guess as I've put a light weight fairly soft Stiga on one side, it is much easier to control and the hollow handle feels comfortable and isn't noisy as I'd thought it may be. A couple more attempts and hopefully I'll be able to see if I can offer some to those interested!

So I've spent some time playing with the walnut composite blade and am getting on quite well with it. The Obeche inner section makes it feel nice and lively with added control that I expect a solid walnut core would lack.

I've just finished a Lime and Balsa composite blade constructed in the same way but without the hollow grip, only the keyhole tang (thanks tOD I've researched both those makers, much inspiration).

I've fitted soft, light rubber and allround long pips, it's for my girlfriend so has my logo and her Initials on it. The core is Lime with Balsa sweet spot and walnut jointing tongues. The Laminations are Koto and outer Lebanon Cedar. I've oiled the grip and cheeks in line with the bottom of the rubbers and sealed and varnished the head with acrylic.


Once I've worked out how to post bigger pictures I'll go into more detail about how to make the handles. Still lots of ideas in my head, just no time to play around and make them. Also, this handmade blade maker is worth looking into, lots of skill involved in his process http://ospblades.com/.
Thanks, Adam

Wow - I missed the activity on this thread - somehow lost my topic subscription. makepaddle - nice work on the blades. I've avoided hollowing the tang myself (so far, anyway). I find that hollow handle halves alone take the paddle to near head-heavy prior to any rubber. Any more weight reduction in the handle and I'm afraid I'd truly unbalance it.

The vacuum press is nice for getting a uniform clamping pressure over the face of the blade. But one problem is that even with cold-press glue, there's so little air getting in that it takes forever for the glue to dry. I just made a blade using polyurethane glue, which is a moisture glue. Less than 2 hours was enough clamping time in the press. I still need to finish it up, but I'm anxious to see what kind of difference the glue made in playing characteristics (or if I can even tell).