OOAK Table Tennis Forum

Everything about your blades is simply beautiful. Though I've never used a balsa core blade, I would love to test one out if you ever decide to send them out. I'm sure I could have the people at my local club toss in your opinions too.

Hi All, my first post was in 'Is it Legal' but cut short I live in london and work in a picture framers where the staff have all got really into table tennis, I enjoy playing but not as much as I do making things... Ross, your blades are really nice, and the handle jig is very clever. I had been thinking for a while about making some myself and your in depth talk through the process has inspired me to get on with it. Unfortunately I don't really have much skill when it comes to playing table tennis but the popularity of the sport in London this sumer makes it enjoyable none the less. I've not looked too hard but finding wide enough Balsa has proved tricky, so for the time being I'm using 3mm light ply (1mm tulip, 1mm balsa, 1mm tulip) either side of a piece of veneer. It seems to be light and rigid but damages easily.

I don't have a vacum press but lots of clamps and 2 pieces of 25mm mdf are ok to use instead. I took a picture of a nicely shaped Butterfly blade from the web and traced it with a little tweak and based the size on a very cheep Dunlop bat I have. Luckily I have a friend who uses a lazer cutter and she was kind and cut the template from 5mm perspex for me. The light ply tore out a bit on the router table so I may joint some solid balsa in the future and face with 2 layers of veneer.

The veneer used between the light ply in this first blade is 0.6mm cherry. I can try and get some pictures of the handle detail technique soon but I am alway too eager to finish the shaping to take any that show how it's achieved.

I just put some very cheep rubbers on it (Palio training and Bombard tension) they are tacky and better than the rubbish bats we use but seem to be too fast for me and also very heavy. This blade was 73g before they went on so advice on good starter rubber that isn't so fast or heavy would be handy!

The handle is Lime with Utile strips either side of a slip of Cherry veneer. I rounded it too much and also the top splay is too long so it's come out small. Lesons learnt though! Hopefully this is inspiring for others like Ross' was for me.

Adam

Here's a little detail on my latest blade. It's totally experimental and not ITTF legal! It consists of a 4mm Obeche/ American Black Walnut inner ply with Cherry and Walnut face veneer. The two inner woods are jointed with a loose tongue and groove to aid bonding and increase rigidity. They are very different woods and the Obeche shaves a little weight and hopefully offers a bit more control. I have a soft spot for Walnut, everything about it appeals to me, I hope it plays well.



For the handle I've tried to take some more weight off the blade by hollowing it where I could. It feels quite balanced but light rubber will be key I guess as it is top heavy now already. There is a Wenge and Cherry detail in the handle too.


I'll post more detailed photos once it's all together. Any advice or feedback would be great to hear.
Thanks, Adam

I love the elegant and subtle handle decoration, makepaddle.

If you ever consider taking requests for purchase, I'd be the first to bite.

_________________
Custom Blade 'Hard Justice' w/ Yasaka Cobalt a
Tatco Hornet w/ ATP Leland Era

how do you get that smooth blade finish after the cutting? lots of sandpapering or what? also you have really got to do a full tutorial for the handles, they are just superb

Great ideas, both. I know of a couple of bladesmiths who have used similar technology The keyholes in the tang of the blade morphed to changeable weight for Mark Bellamy of yltonline.co.uk. Reducing the weight in the grips allowed Bernie Hock of Hock TT fame to produce a hardbat with a total weight (including rubber) of only four ounces.

Your workmanship is a lovely thing to behold.
tOD

From what I have tried myself, you can expect to get a more Hard or crisp feeling, quick take off, and lower dwell time, type of blade with walnut in the outside plies.

_________________
OSP Ultimate cpen
Acuda S1 Turbo
Hallmark Phoenix ox

Thank you for the responses, when I next make a handle I'll take some pictures to show how it's done. Nothing too complicated. After the blade is routed out the edges do need to be sanded, but if the machine is at the right speed and the cutters are sharp then the finish should be good and only a little will be needed. The face veneer doesn't need much sanding at all, just a light brush with 320 grit really.
The Walnut and Obeche blade is much nicer to play with than the first attempt, mainly due to the rubbers I guess as I've put a light weight fairly soft Stiga on one side, it is much easier to control and the hollow handle feels comfortable and isn't noisy as I'd thought it may be. A couple more attempts and hopefully I'll be able to see if I can offer some to those interested!

So I've spent some time playing with the walnut composite blade and am getting on quite well with it. The Obeche inner section makes it feel nice and lively with added control that I expect a solid walnut core would lack.

I've just finished a Lime and Balsa composite blade constructed in the same way but without the hollow grip, only the keyhole tang (thanks tOD I've researched both those makers, much inspiration).

I've fitted soft, light rubber and allround long pips, it's for my girlfriend so has my logo and her Initials on it. The core is Lime with Balsa sweet spot and walnut jointing tongues. The Laminations are Koto and outer Lebanon Cedar. I've oiled the grip and cheeks in line with the bottom of the rubbers and sealed and varnished the head with acrylic.


Once I've worked out how to post bigger pictures I'll go into more detail about how to make the handles. Still lots of ideas in my head, just no time to play around and make them. Also, this handmade blade maker is worth looking into, lots of skill involved in his process http://ospblades.com/.
Thanks, Adam

Wow - I missed the activity on this thread - somehow lost my topic subscription. makepaddle - nice work on the blades. I've avoided hollowing the tang myself (so far, anyway). I find that hollow handle halves alone take the paddle to near head-heavy prior to any rubber. Any more weight reduction in the handle and I'm afraid I'd truly unbalance it.

The vacuum press is nice for getting a uniform clamping pressure over the face of the blade. But one problem is that even with cold-press glue, there's so little air getting in that it takes forever for the glue to dry. I just made a blade using polyurethane glue, which is a moisture glue. Less than 2 hours was enough clamping time in the press. I still need to finish it up, but I'm anxious to see what kind of difference the glue made in playing characteristics (or if I can even tell).

_________________
Ross
Handcrafted Table Tennis Blades

Welcome back Ross Leidy

_________________
the re-evolution of war
Bty Gergely Palio Macro Era 42.5 Max DHS H2 Max

Thanks Ross, do you have any more blades to share with us? The hollow tang and handle on the walnut and obeche experiment was overkill but on the lime and cedar composite blade I made for my girlfriend I left the grip solid and only took out a small keyhole in the tang, the result is a nice feeling setup but we've used 729 super soft which is a light rubber.

This is my most recent and it is really like yours, just without the edge banding It's (2)cedar, 4mm balsa, (2)cedar, with acrylic sealed head and danish oiled handle. It's made for my friend and the handle is shaped to be close the blade he used years ago. Although the handle is black walnut I left it solid and the total weight is 78g. He is a defensive player so with thin rubbers it should be suited to his style ok.



I'm making blades for people I work with for zero profit, just costs covered until I've learnt enough about the art. It's good because I have incentive to keep making them and get constant feedback. The composite blades are fun to make and look pretty but it does seem that simple is the way forward. Next up is a lime core, with a layer of polyester then an outer ply of koto. The aim is for a mid weight all+ blade, I'll post when it's done.




Photobucket is only allowing me to post these tiny thumbnails and it's annoying me, can anyone help with a better option?

Thanks all,

Adam

Adam - nice job on you latest blade. Please do find a way to post some larger photos - I'd love to see them up close.

To answer your question, I've just finished my first asymmetric handle blade. I thought I'd give it a try and see how it feels. For the first one, I used the same composition I have on the blade I've been using lately: sapele-mahogany-balsa-mahogany-sapele, ash edge banding, and padauk handles. I just finished it this evening, so I've not played it yet. Here's one photo - I'll post a few more this weekend.

_________________
Ross
Handcrafted Table Tennis Blades

That looks fantastic Ross Leidy! If it plays half as well as it looks, you've got a winner!

_________________
OOAK Table Tennis Shop | Re-Impact Blades | Butterfly Table Tennis bats
Setup1: Re-Impact Smart, Viper OX, Victas VS 401 Setup2: Re-Impact Barath, Dtecs OX, TSP Triple Spin Chop 1.0mm Setup3: Re-Impact Dark Knight, Hellfire OX, 999 Turbo
Recent Articles: Butterfly Tenergy Alternatives | Tenergy Rubbers Compared | Re-Impact User Guide

Wow, first time I have noticed this thread. You guys have amazing craftsmenship. Ross, I agree with Haggisv, that blade is absolutely gorgeous. I wouldn't play with it, I'd hang it on a wall as ART!!

Edit: ok, I would have to play with it to see how it felt and THEN I'd hang it on the wall!

_________________
I'm always in the dark, but the Dark sheds lights upon everything!! Beauty is only pimple deep! Beauty is in the eye of the pipholder!
S/U 1: Blade: Bty Gergely . FH Black Andro Rasant 2.1 . BH Red Tibhar Grass Dtecs
S/U 2: Blade: Bty Gergely . FH Black Hexer+ 2.1 . BH Red GD Talon
S/U 3: Blade: Bty Gergely . No rubbers...thinking of adding Red Dtecs and Black Rasant
Aussie Table Tennis Shop / Aussie Table Tennis Facebook Page / Equipment Review Index / Read my Reb Report Blog: click here.