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 Post subject: Re: Make your own blade
PostPosted: 30 Nov 2018, 09:40 
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Blade: Donic Appelgren Excl. AR
FH: KTL Pro XP
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This thread is really inspiring me to try my making my own blade.

If I wanted to do that however, I would want to stick with an ALL-/ALL+ blade. I am unfamiliar with wood qualities, but based on what I've read (and other blade compositions) I was thinking that something like [limba - ayous - kiri - ayous - limba] would be a good ALL blade. I have no idea about thicknesses, but I guess the kiri would be like 3mm, and the others 0.8? Thoughts? Is there any good resource to tap online (other than this forum) so I don't have to bug you guys? EDIT: of course, right after I post this I find this amazing post on wood properties right on the forum (https://ooakforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=12687). Nevermind this question

Or rather, do you guys think there is a good 'starter' custom blade to try first? Or is it just grabbing whatever I can and trying to make a blade from that?

Thanks!


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 Post subject: Re: Make your own blade
PostPosted: 04 Dec 2018, 18:18 
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Blade: homemade
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If you want to investigate compositions of blades go here:
https://stervinou.net/ttbdb/compo.php
search your desired compo, press the ? button and see which blades have it and then search reviews of these blades.
This can be an idea how to investigate a composition.

Also read this thread:
http://ooakforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=11969

As a starter, do something from whatever you can find easily and without spending too much money.
The first I have made was mahogany-fiberglass-balsa-balsa-balsa-fiberglass-mahogany, and this because I had mahoganny, fiberglass, balsa and epoxy at home.


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 Post subject: Re: Make your own blade
PostPosted: 04 Dec 2018, 20:29 
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adyy wrote:
If you want to investigate compositions of blades go here:
https://stervinou.net/ttbdb/compo.php


How accurate IS this??? I looked up the Sanwei M8 and it claims all five plies are walnut. This is assuredly NOT the case.. :lol: In fact, they list M1 through M8, and they're ALL 5 ply walnut... I also wanted to see what the Yinhe N11 was made of, but they don't list any Yinhe blades.

Iskandar


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 Post subject: Re: Make your own blade
PostPosted: 04 Dec 2018, 20:33 
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I would say 80% correct :P.

As far as I can tell, all secondary research, but better than nothing. A starting point then reviews and testing. Valuable purpose. Wasted hours on that site :D


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 Post subject: Re: Make your own blade
PostPosted: 04 Dec 2018, 20:35 
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Another resource for "empirical" comparison is https://ttgearlab.com/.

BTW Mr. Taib, you seem to love your M8 :rofl:

Should do some stiffness/frequency measuring and Ec/Ep comparisons.


Last edited by lasta on 04 Dec 2018, 21:48, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Make your own blade
PostPosted: 04 Dec 2018, 21:21 
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The https://stervinou.net/ttbdb/compo.php contains data proposed by enthusiast readers.
And yes, it is not entirely accurate, but it's a bit better than hard wild guess.

If you want to search for Yinhe go here https://stervinou.net/ttbdb/brand.php and select Galaxy/Milkyway/Yinhe
If you want to propose something, it's here: https://stervinou.net/ttbdb/add.php


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 Post subject: Re: Make your own blade
PostPosted: 05 Dec 2018, 02:18 
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Ah silly me.. I forgot Yinhe was known by other names.. :lol: Still, no N11. I was wondering if they'd ever heard of meranti/lauan.

By the way, a lot of these woods have more than one name. Kiri is also known as paulownia, for instance (and is sold by that name on AliExpress). Ayous is also known as obeche or abachi - it's sold as "obeche" by people who sell model airplane supplies.

If you just want to try making a blade really quickly before ordering veneers, go to your local hobby shop (the ones that actually sell model airplane building supplies, not the ones that sell RC cars and drones) and buy some 5mm balsa and some 0.4mm 3 ply birch. You'll end up with a 5.8mm thick 7 ply blade with six birch plies and a 5mm balsa core. You will need something to clamp the sandwich tightly together while the glue dries (woodworking glue - e.g. Titebond - will work OK for a simple blade like this) - two pieces of 3/4" MDF shelving about a foot long plus some large woodworking clamps will do. Don't be afraid to clamp TIGHT. Handles? Use balsa blocks (get a 12mm plank when you're at the store) and whittle using a knife. Use Duco (cellulose) cement for the handle, in case you want to remove it (use acetone). If you have a Daiso store nearby you might be able to get 6mm paulownia planks, which you can use in place of the balsa.

Iskandar


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 Post subject: Re: Make your own blade
PostPosted: 11 Dec 2018, 17:52 
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Blade: homemade
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If cork like this:

Image

would be used as a core material, would it be ITTF compliant?
Anyone have any idea?


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 Post subject: Re: Make your own blade
PostPosted: 13 Dec 2018, 01:30 
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I don't think it is.. that's granulated cork. There's a rule against using reconstituted wood, like chipboard, this probably falls in the same category. The stuff they use in blades like the 729 A3 should be continuous cut sheet cork. Then again, who's going to know? :lol: I think blades with a layer of cork are the only ones that actually flex lengthwise, if only a little tiny bit - the cork is soft enough to deform in the shear direction. I have a A3 - just too bloody heavy.

Image

Iskandar


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 Post subject: Re: Make your own blade
PostPosted: 14 Dec 2018, 01:49 
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iskandar taib wrote:
... a layer of cork are the only ones that actually flex lengthwise, if only a little tiny bit - the cork is soft enough to deform in the shear direction ...


This is what I was thinking about. On some local forum, someone stated that he did not found yet a blade so soft that a ball would not bounce from it if it fell from 20 cm above.
And I was just thinking, how that impact could be absorbed almost totally ...


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 Post subject: Re: Make your own blade
PostPosted: 15 Dec 2018, 02:00 
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Actually, I think the ball would actually "diving board" off it. The harder you hit the ball the more pronounced the effect, and even so, the effect will be tiny, even with the cork. Problem is, if you read forum posts from a few years back, a LOT of people were saying a LOT of blades had this "flex", and were behaving like diving boards. I think it's more likely, with certain types of blades, that you have a "drumskin" or trampoline effect, where the surface of the blade rebounds. Even this would be very miniscule, since there's a sheet of rubber which is MUCH softer than any wood, in between the ball and the blade surface.

If you want damping, it would have to be the equivalent of a layer of felt on the blade. Putting the cork on the surface rather than inside the blade would probably do it.

Iskandar


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