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PostPosted: 17 May 2010, 05:58 
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Modern Chiseler.
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R*1 with OX short pips doesn't sound like a good plan at all. Of all the successful quick blockers I know of, they all use sponge.

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PostPosted: 17 May 2010, 06:02 
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@metal monkey: I plan on ordering online from any store from anywhere so long as they have both the blade and rubbers I want in addition to racket assembly. I think Butterfly Thailand did, but I couldn't figure out how to order from them or even contact them!

@speedplay: It seems only medium pips or up kill or reverse the spin, at least in OX from what I've tried, but the reason I want to go with OX short pips, ideally classic hardbat rubber, is because I want my paddle to be more classical (though I'm prefectly willing to go with a paddle with non-wood materials). Basically, it will make me happy with my paddle, while sponge and/or inverted won't. Hardbat rubbers may be even worse than grippy SP though, but if there is no dwell time on the paddle, it won't make a huge difference any way you slice it.

@mynamenotbob: Thanks for telling it how it is, and I agree after the light research I did and the realization as to why blocking wasn't working with OX, but to make the best out of the situation, what would be a good choice? Should I take the leap to medium pips as I was able to block with Hallmark Panther? However, I don't want my pips to be bendy and breaky.

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PostPosted: 17 May 2010, 06:24 
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Modern Chiseler.
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I would suggest finding a video of a player who uses the style you want to play and selecting similar equipment.

Are you a shakehander or penhold player?

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PostPosted: 17 May 2010, 06:40 
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Thats more info to go by as I was misunderstanding the thought on going both ox. Going a classical approach is great as some of our usa members have a hardbat setup as well that they use in those tourney.

The blade makes a huge difference rather than the pip, I like my blades to have good feel so all- like stiga allround classic or evolution or even galaxy U4 have that flex and vibration. The slow balsa blades work well like tsp 2.5 or even 3.5. I wouldnt go much faster, a great combination if your a offensive hardbat hitter is bty mazunov and yasaka cobalt, its a heavy setup due to the blade is 95gram plus, my one weighed in at 108g and the heavy base of the cobalt and grip could add some spin and plenty of power.

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PostPosted: 17 May 2010, 07:12 
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My other intetion for going 'classic' is that I want the paddle to be heirloom quality; i.e. - I never want to worry about the rubber losing its grip, the sponge going stale, or the pips breaking. All inverted rubbers need to be changed, and I hear that medium and long pips will break, and in addition, newer short pips rely on grip, so hardbat rubber seems to be the only option. I don't want my game to rely on keeping my rubbers new, and I want my blade to last forever.

I'd really like to go with a unique blade + rubber as well, which is why I'm shying away from butterfly orthodox or the yasaka hardbat rubbers; I'd really like to try andro classic (or even better the rubbers that only haggisv seems to have), but the only place that has it in stock is a U.K. store that only ships within the U.K. TTPioneers has andro classic, but only red sheets, and that's it. I definitely don't want a blade that a good number of people use either; one of the joys of table tennis for me is having unique equipment that nobody else uses and standing alone.

Maybe I should give up on finding a certain type of blade to suit my playing style and just get something unique, durable, and classic (but not classic in a way to resemble paddles from the 'golden era', I don't care much about that, and definitely NOT CHINESE; I bought a scooter from them and it leaves me stranded almost every week!), and just learn how to play with it over time.

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PostPosted: 17 May 2010, 09:27 
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How about on getting a custom blade, that way its ooak :lol:

There are few ppl that own (i have a galaxy custom) or also even better are blade makers in this forum.

Monkey

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PostPosted: 17 May 2010, 11:51 
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Does the thickness of a blade affect its durability at all?

Also, does the inclusion of carbon or fiberglass boost durability?

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PostPosted: 17 May 2010, 15:52 
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speedplay wrote:
abdulmuhsee wrote:
After reading some threads from here, dttw, and online articles about wood properties, I realize that I need a very soft, thick, and flexible blade with high dwell time since I want to use OX rubbers, but need to generate enough dwell time to generate topspin so the ball doesn't float.

I read that Balsa and Bamboo are excellent for dwell time. However, Balsa blades are very light and people here have said that heavier is better for blocking. Would a very thick balsa blade be good for dwell time? What about the bamboo?



Sorry, but this makes no sense to me, so please explain., You said you want to block fast, then you say you are going to pick a OX rubber? Well, ox is only allowed if you play with pips and even though there are some fast short pips rubbers, I do think most of them requires a sponge to make them really fast.

Also, from my understanding, a soft blade would rather reduce the speed then increase it, especially if you go with OX.

So, are you going to use pips or inverted rubbers? Generating spin with ox will be hard, regardless of what blade you pick.



Good point, your wants in a equipment does go against your choice in rubbers and in style.

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PostPosted: 17 May 2010, 16:05 
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I finally made a choice since I was getting stressed out.

I went with a defensive blade, since the only way to do quick blocks against topspin/smashes with OX short pips is most likely this way; I'll be needing tons of control and braking to block close to the table without it floating off, and although I would like to try this with the fastest blade possible and see how that goes, I really don't have the patience, stress-tolerance, or money to do so.

So hopefully a defensive blade was the correct choice.

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PostPosted: 17 May 2010, 16:18 
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abdulmuhsee wrote:
I finally made a choice since I was getting stressed out.

I went with a defensive blade, since the only way to do quick blocks against topspin/smashes with OX short pips is most likely this way; I'll be needing tons of control and braking to block close to the table without it floating off, and although I would like to try this with the fastest blade possible and see how that goes, I really don't have the patience, stress-tolerance, or money to do so.

So hopefully a defensive blade was the correct choice.


I would agree with your choice, given that you are using (and I tried to use before) OX pips. Quick doesn't necessarily mean wobbly balls, but surely you can place it evilly for the opponent to be stressed. :)

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PostPosted: 17 May 2010, 18:17 
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Well!!?.....
Dont keep me guessing what you ordered :clap:

Haha.... Dont tell me you got another chinese scooter :*

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PostPosted: 17 May 2010, 18:19 
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....Im just joking btw guys, i have nothing about buying china goods.

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PostPosted: 17 May 2010, 23:41 
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speedplay wrote:
abdulmuhsee wrote:
I finally made a choice since I was getting stressed out.

I went with a defensive blade, since the only way to do quick blocks against topspin/smashes with OX short pips is most likely this way; I'll be needing tons of control and braking to block close to the table without it floating off, and although I would like to try this with the fastest blade possible and see how that goes, I really don't have the patience, stress-tolerance, or money to do so.

So hopefully a defensive blade was the correct choice.



You don't feel this is a bit of a contradiction, do you? Defensive blade as the only way to make fast blocks? control and breaking for quick blocks? The style you describe sounds a lot more like a close to the table LP blocker, yet you insist that it is fast blocks you want to make?

You have been given heaps of good advices here but decided to go against them all, so don't blame us if it turns out that you didn't get what you were after. If it actually turns out this was what you wanted, then you failed miserably to describe your style.


Hi Speedplay, I am guessing that the usage of 'quick' might be in terms of ball timing (off-the-bounce) with respect to his description, but let's wait for his statement (a new blade! :D)

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PostPosted: 18 May 2010, 00:03 
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Yes, and I appreciate all that wonderful advice, speedplay, but doing quick blocks with sponge and OX short pips is entirely different, and doing a quick block close to the table with a faster paddle will result in the ball floating off the table before it has the chance to drop, not sending it back at them like a rocket as would be the case with sponge, since the paddle could then grab the ball and send it back at them with topspin as well as cause the ball to drop instead of the opposite, which I will be dealing with.

In my test with the Galaxy J-1 and Uranus OX, the only way to perform quick blocks against a high level of topspin without sending it off the table was to back up from the table a couple feet, and in my test with the Tibhar Smash and Magic Pips, the problem lessened a little bit, but I still had to back up in order for it to be effective. Closing the racket angle had no affect whatsoever, since topspin wasn't what caused the ball to arc over the net onto the other side. So the only option to at least allow me to block an incoming ball at the table is to use a slow paddle, so obviously the return will be entirely different, i.e. - extreme underspin instead of topspin, but it allows me to use the same block mechanics for the time being, probably with strategic ball placement in places they won't want since the ball won't be arcing violently back at them. Does that make sense?

I went with the Tibhar CO-S-3, and I'll NEVER order a chinese scooter again, even if it's free!

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PostPosted: 18 May 2010, 00:30 
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My guess, he wants to do drop blocks, not punch blocks. Dropping back to block will give to many "gifts" to your opponent. :)


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