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PostPosted: 02 Oct 2013, 00:38 
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Blade: TT Piet Homemade 6 ply
FH: Spinlord Waran Short Pips
BH: Joola Badman Reloaded 0X
I am not familiar with the Stiga blade, but its a safe bet the cherry backhand will be slower than OFF+.

_________________
--- Push/Chop or Attack ---
USATT 1684 left, Lost it all by playing sick and hurt.
No legs left, no more backing up, just smash it!
Blade: TTPiet OFF-/ALL custom
FH: Spinlord Waran Short Pips
BH: Joola Badman Reloaded 0X


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PostPosted: 04 Oct 2013, 01:30 
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I have ordered a blade at peters shop.

Limba - Koto - Balsa 3 mm - Abachi 1,0 - Balsa 1,0 - Bubinga (ca. 72-75 g, abhängig von der

He told me that he has a surgery next week so i have to wait about 6 weeks.

_________________
My main Blade:
LKT Black Whirlwind Spinlord Marder II 1,8 Spinlord Dornenglanz 0x
alternate Blades:
Yasaka Allround Jean-Phillipe Gatien Meteor 835 2,0 Friendship 799 1,5
TT-Manufactur KFD Orginal Dawei 388 A-4 Spinlord Dornenglanz 0x


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PostPosted: 19 Oct 2013, 07:19 
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Hi there
Peters surgery has shifted and so he build the blade.
Here some facts about the Blade:

Structure of veneer:
Limba - Koto - Balsa 3 mm - Abachi 1,0 - Balsa 1,0 - Bubinga

Wight 78 g
Lenght 15,5 cm
Width 15,3 cm
Handle Lenght 10,5 cm
Handle Width 3,4 cm (bottom) 3,0 cm (top)
Handle Depth 2,35 cm

Forehand:
Image

Backhand:
Image

Tomorrow he will send it.

I am excited to play with it.

_________________
My main Blade:
LKT Black Whirlwind Spinlord Marder II 1,8 Spinlord Dornenglanz 0x
alternate Blades:
Yasaka Allround Jean-Phillipe Gatien Meteor 835 2,0 Friendship 799 1,5
TT-Manufactur KFD Orginal Dawei 388 A-4 Spinlord Dornenglanz 0x


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PostPosted: 28 Oct 2013, 16:52 
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Quote:
Hi there
Peters surgery has shifted and so he build the blade.............


I think is in the process of recovering from surgery now.

I had been communicating with him, and then there is this sudden silence. :^)

_________________
Spin Lord First Strike: FH G Dtec ox, BH Golden Arch 8, 2.15mm


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PostPosted: 10 Dec 2013, 19:45 
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I've too ordered a custom blade from Peter.

too bad he's been in surgery so i probably have to wait until january until i get the blade.
It's BAK-C30
Limba 0,55 - Pear Wood 0,6 - Balsa 6 mm - Balsa 2 mm - Cherry Tree 0,5
rather thick but im used to superbalsa II so i think im going to be happy.

will be paired with a red tsp curl p1r on backhand and a black Andro Rasant on Forehand.


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PostPosted: 24 Dec 2013, 07:24 
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got the blade the other day and tried it out, felt really good so i have no complaint, have not yet been able to test it with the rubbers which are to be used with this blade since i got them today.
but i can really recommend Peter, very good craftsmanship for the price.


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PostPosted: 13 Jan 2014, 01:45 
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Blade: TT Piet Homemade 6 ply
FH: Spinlord Waran Short Pips
BH: Joola Badman Reloaded 0X
I've been playing with BAK-C10 about 5 months now, and its been doing well, so I ordered a duplicate, BAC-C26 which has now arrived and is assembled with fresh rubber etc. It weighed in at 77 gr before epoxy edges and rubber and edge tape, and 139 or 140 with all those, and would play well, but the stupid VOC glue isn't holding well around the outside 3/4" or so around the forehand side, so the rubber doesn't hit right if you out hit near the edges. I rarely hit out there so its more of a psychological problem, but its a distraction, and so I've been playing with BAk-C10 and its 5 month old, pretty worn out rubber, as I play 100 hrs per month normally. Its not the blade's fault so I guess its my fault, but it makes no sense to me why the glue is holding just fine on most of the paddle and just not out near the edges. I may go back to using the old rubber cement as I'm completely disgusted at the thought of ruining a $40 piece of rubber trying to peel the glue off it.

Anyway, BAK-C26 has solid Abachi handles and was cut, drilled and capped after assemble as BAK-C10 was, and plies are:
Cherry 0.5 - Pear 0.6 - Balsa 3.0 -Abachi 2.5 - Anegre 0.5
I would guess it at OFF- / ALL, and its within 1 or 2 gr of its twin and plays about the same

_________________
--- Push/Chop or Attack ---
USATT 1684 left, Lost it all by playing sick and hurt.
No legs left, no more backing up, just smash it!
Blade: TTPiet OFF-/ALL custom
FH: Spinlord Waran Short Pips
BH: Joola Badman Reloaded 0X


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PostPosted: 01 Feb 2014, 02:04 
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Blade: TT Piet Homemade 6 ply
FH: Spinlord Waran Short Pips
BH: Joola Badman Reloaded 0X
I was playing pretty well with BAK-C10 and its twin BAK-C26, but then played a couple of very fast loopers that are much better (200 to 400 rating points) than me. I managed to beat the one, but it took a Herculean effort, and the other I managed to win one game off and get to deuce in two others, but lost the match in the fourth game.

The bad thing is that I was pushing my body beyond its abilities, and managed to hurt my arm again because I was trying so hard (hyperextended again, I think). Because of that, in order to get it to heal and still play, I need to wear a limiting brace to prevent me from extending the arm, and I need to avoid doing too much chopping on the backhand. That's not good, LOL, because my backhand chop was probably my best shot.

The only way to avoid chopping is to do something else, like block or hit the ball more often, and I'm not a good blocker, and my 0X setup is not optimal for hitting the ball, because I go off the back of the table too often. I just have trouble controlling the shot because it needs a tiny amount of topspin to get it to land, I think. Anyway, a thin sponge under the pips seems to cure that, at the cost of some loss of reversal, but also with a large loss of flat hitting speed, so, I'm going to try the long pips with thin, hard sponge on the ABK-A70 and ABK-A73 twins that had the faster backhand with the thin balsa under it in hopes it will improve the speed of the ball when its hit hard.

_________________
--- Push/Chop or Attack ---
USATT 1684 left, Lost it all by playing sick and hurt.
No legs left, no more backing up, just smash it!
Blade: TTPiet OFF-/ALL custom
FH: Spinlord Waran Short Pips
BH: Joola Badman Reloaded 0X


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PostPosted: 08 Oct 2015, 19:24 
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Due to injury and coaching duties (not allowed to use short pimples with kids who are just starting out) I'm having to change my style and will be reverting to double inverted. After having spoken to Peter we've agreed on a new combination bat

Bat 1:
Bamboo / limba 0.55 / abachi 1,0 / balsa 6,0 / limba 0.55

It was a toss up between teak and bamboo but bamboo intrigues me. I'll be matching it up with a 2.1mm sheet of Tibhar Evolution MX-P on my FH and Andro Rasant Power Sponge 1.9mm on my backhand.

As a filming project I've also ordered a second bat.

Bat 2:
Bamboo / limba 0.55 / abachi 1,5 / abachi 1.5 / limba 0.55

I'm intrigued to see what the difference is between a bat with balsa and abachi cores and everything else the same.


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PostPosted: 09 Oct 2015, 08:03 
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Blade: TT Piet Homemade 6 ply
FH: Spinlord Waran Short Pips
BH: Joola Badman Reloaded 0X
I like an Abachi core best.

_________________
--- Push/Chop or Attack ---
USATT 1684 left, Lost it all by playing sick and hurt.
No legs left, no more backing up, just smash it!
Blade: TTPiet OFF-/ALL custom
FH: Spinlord Waran Short Pips
BH: Joola Badman Reloaded 0X


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PostPosted: 09 Oct 2015, 19:57 
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Kim Is My Shadow
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Old-Man-Southpaw wrote:
I like an Abachi core best.

Why the preferenence for the abachi core please?


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PostPosted: 10 Oct 2015, 10:49 
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a.k.a. obeche, ayous. The other common core wood is paulownia (a.k.a. kiri) as is used in most Chinese blades.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 12 Oct 2015, 13:10 
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It's nice to see this thread resurrected again. And also nice that there are still some who use Mr. Peter's blades.


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PostPosted: 21 Oct 2015, 00:56 
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Peter's sent me photos of the my two blades. One with the balsa core, one with the abachi core, the rest the same. I'm really looking forward to trying them out to see what the difference between the two is when they have the same rubbers on.

B79: Abachi 1.0, Limba, Bambus, Balsa 6.0 Limba
Weight 75g Length 15.4, Width 15.2, Handle Length 10.5, Handle Width 3.05 Handle Depth 2.35
Attachment:
A974 ABK-B79 Vorhand (FILEminimizer).JPG
A974 ABK-B79 Vorhand (FILEminimizer).JPG [ 220.53 KiB | Viewed 1083 times ]

Attachment:
A974 ABK-B79 Rückhand (FILEminimizer).JPG
A974 ABK-B79 Rückhand (FILEminimizer).JPG [ 201.22 KiB | Viewed 1083 times ]


B80: Abachi 1.5, Limba, Bambus, Abachi 1,5, Limba
Weight 70g, Length15.4, Width 15.1, Handle Length 10.8, Handle Width 3.05, Handle Depth 2.35
Attachment:
A975 ABK-B80 Vorhand (FILEminimizer).JPG
A975 ABK-B80 Vorhand (FILEminimizer).JPG [ 222.14 KiB | Viewed 1083 times ]


Attachments:
A975 ABK-B80 Rückhand (FILEminimizer).JPG
A975 ABK-B80 Rückhand (FILEminimizer).JPG [ 195.24 KiB | Viewed 1083 times ]
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PostPosted: 22 Oct 2015, 11:18 
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A somewhat related question that someone may be able to answer: does anyone have a good place to buy kiri sheets in europe or at least a non alibaba source?

I contacted Peter about kiri core but so far he had not been able to find a good place to buy it.

_________________
Competition bats:
Win-tec power def Tibhar 5Q sound Power Update 1.8 * Spinlord Agenda ox
TSP Balsa 3.5 Tibhar Genius+Optimium sound 1.8 * Grass D-tecs ox

Put to rest:
Galaxy T10 Bluefire M2 2.0 Palio Ck531a ox
Victas Koji Matsushita Tibhar Genius+Optimium sound MAX * Spinlord Dornenglanz ox
Donic Defplay Senso Tibhar Aurus Sound Black max * Grass D-tecs ox

Check out my quest for my new blade here: http://ooakforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=58&t=23241
Current standings:
Butterfly Matshushita powerdefence * Joola Chen Weixing * Nittaku KVU * Nittaku Shake defense* Tibhar stratus power defense * Victas Koji Matsushita * Yasaka Sweeper * Win-Tec power defence


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