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PostPosted: 21 Feb 2012, 03:05 
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It is illogical to play with a uniform surface!
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After watch Leatherback play with a fast blade for his long pips, I was curious which type of blade is popular for LP players on this site. I know that if your using sponge any type of blade just about will do. I am more interested in ox players that like to block, attack or chop from mid distance. I have used ox with a fast hinoki carbon blade and a soft 72 gram Kris blade. ( now using 115 gram Kris ). I did have pretty good results using the faster set-up and would like to know what others might have used in the past. My lighter blade is better for attack and drops just over the net on hard hit balls, but with less reversal than much heavy Kris set-up that will go longer to the corners, with more reversal. For blockers that count on spin reversal, I know a stiff blade is desired for some, others might like a blade with a little flex. I do like to block and attack on my Fh side and use my LP to set it up. I also sometimes chop from mid-distance when needed. Things that I dont do well because of loss of game concentration is attacking with my BH when I have a chance to do so. I played on SUnday and did not do that well even though I left my shorts at home and that bugged the crap out of me, and had to hit in my jeans. ( CRAPP AND HOT )
I did notice that when players would serve with less spin I would not attack like I did last week. Something that I can correct. I also did have a habit of blocking and returning the ball too much to the Bh. ( yes I forgot my regular glasses at work and had to wear my work glasses..another Crapp) It if seems like I am venting I am..thanks for listening guys.
In any course I still would like some feedback on blade selections and why, also type of game that you play. I need to video and post something of me playing to this site for some honest input and at least get an Idea where I am and where I am going...Thanks guys for your input and support.

Peace GIG
:rock: :clap:

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PostPosted: 24 Feb 2012, 19:20 
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All I know, Sir, is that Balsa will tend to be slow when low-impact shots are made.
However, when you struck hard to some degree, the speed will be faster than harder blades.

I would say that Balsa has a high coligative-like properties, Sir.

I have used quite some blade but I don't have any idea whether there is balsa in them, so this info is out from the knowledge, not experience. I hope that I am right tho ;)

Hopefully that helps, Sir.

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PostPosted: 29 Nov 2012, 14:19 
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I swap blades during league nights and I fully agree with mbob's insights regarding slower blades and faster setups.

For ox long pip close to table blocking, it seems like faster, harder blades are more effective. There is more reversal, depth and low trajectory. Control imo is better than the slower blade since the ball goes where you want although at a faster speed.

Downside is the ball may come back faster and more spinny which you can't block or chop too well with the fast blade.

My question is whether you get better reversal from balsa or from the hardness of the blade (independent of composition and speed class). I have also noticed that at least review wise and by product description, harder blades whether balsa, carbon, 7ply etc generally are faster blades - ALL class blades are usually described as thinner and flexy 5 plys, gives better ability to loop but also less effective in delievering low lp ox blocks.

I read about blocking blades like Cayman and FW+ and both are listed as ALL+ but reviews claim they play much faster. I guess that implies faster OFF blades are beter for lp blocks. Of course, you can't go too fast. Still looking for a good All class blade that is regular sized and hard for blocking.

I use a matsushita pro with orthodox and feint ox. I block high and long if i stand too close so I play off the table blocks and short chops but with faster blade I block lower yet faster but seems that a higher percentage land on the table deep behind the opponents follow through..


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PostPosted: 29 Nov 2012, 14:38 
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BTW the Alligator Combi seems like the ideal blade for blocking and hitting with ox lp.

It can't be too slow defensively or else you get lower reversal and behaves more like a defensive choppers blade which is not ideal for blocks, gotta have a minimum velocity...Its rated 67? @ PP. I think its balsa. Theres a brief review here on the forum.


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PostPosted: 29 Nov 2012, 14:50 
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BH: Dawei 388D-1 OX
I used balsa blades for frictionless long pips, but since the ban (and after a lot of agonizing testing) I now prefer carbon blades. They're great with the currently legal long pips and are for me vastly superior on the forehand. I also feel that balsa blades are erratic on the forehand.

Nittaku Shake Defense, Butterfly Gergely, Butterfly Schlager Carbon and Donic Epox Topspeed are all proven good blades for long pips in ox.

Note: This is for blocking and hitting. I rarely chop.

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PostPosted: 29 Nov 2012, 15:09 
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I was goning to spend 43 bucks... looks like I'm going to up that to well-over $100 for a SC and throw in another $10 for a 1615.

$110+ expenditure for equipment... the reversal gained and agony avoided... priceless.


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PostPosted: 29 Nov 2012, 21:44 
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Blade: Trinity Carbon
FH: Victas VS > 401
BH: Dornenglanz OX
Obviously the faster non-balsa and carbon blades work for some people, but I find them quite unforgiving. Reversal is great, so if you can control the pace they are very effective for blocking, and great for aggressive pushing against backspin. However for me they lack the dwell time against slow paced low-spin shots, so unless you train a lot they produce too many loose balls for me. For chopping, especially in OX, I like some dwell time.

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PostPosted: 30 Nov 2012, 00:44 
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haggisv wrote:
Obviously the faster non-balsa and carbon blades work for some people, but I find them quite unforgiving. Reversal is great, so if you can control the pace they are very effective for blocking, and great for aggressive pushing against backspin. However for me they lack the dwell time against slow paced low-spin shots, so unless you train a lot they produce too many loose balls for me. For chopping, especially in OX, I like some dwell time.


I kept reading this about aggressive pushing against underspin with LP, that mostly produce fast top spin balls, once or twice, it will surprise the other players, after that, they will get use to it.

Unless I am out of position, otherwise, underspin balls are meant to be hit. BTW, my current favorite blade is BBC's Double Diamond, a super fast blade, and I start attacking right from receiving with LP, even with chicken-hand style, best combination is a backhand semi flat hit to their backhand with a follow up forehand to their forehand corner, at my level, even if they can get the ball back, it will be weak and he is out of position, you can do whatever you want.


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PostPosted: 30 Nov 2012, 16:13 
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You hit very well indeed, Mr.Tat! (saw your video with Nathanso).

How would you hit low spinny backspins the high ones you can hit like Coach Mcafee demonstrates in his video, from high to low stroke. I find the low bouncing ones easier just to push or liftwith the pimples, even easier to push with the inverted.

Just wanted to add that I have just discovered ztabletennis.com - looks like they have all the exotic stuff eg balsapower, kris, and other balsa blades for low prices like $30 USD. I'm thinking of getting the Balsapower blade with All+ speed for my blocking blade, for christmas a month ahead of schdule!


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PostPosted: 30 Nov 2012, 21:50 
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I agree with Haggisv that some dwell-time helps OX-chopping. Blades with a balsa core have usually hard thin outer plies and are usually very stiff. Excellent for blocking with good spin reversal and for hitting, but mediocre to poor for chopping, pushing, FH-topspin. I was very inconsistent with such a blade. Although I must say that there are some big differences within the balsa blades too. Hallmark Aurora acts pretty much in the line of my description. But blades like Defplay Senso Classic (core: two balsa layers pressed together) and Tibhar Defense Plus (core: two balsa layers separated from each other by means of another wood ply) are much better for chopping & FH-topspin... These blades have some flex and offer good dwell time - but they're slow.

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PostPosted: 01 Dec 2012, 01:11 
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It is illogical to play with a uniform surface!
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So sorry for not posting recently, I had vacation time and family here for the holidays and then got sick. I am feeling better and plan to get back to work playing and training this weekend. back to Blades- I loved my heavy Kris blade set-up (trimmed to 159x152) Forhand was great and blocking and attacking was good. Chopping off the table was also good, Short game is where it shined. The minus is the long balls off hard hitting players. the blade manuvers well trimmed. feedback and vibration is just ok. *If you like a blade that manuvers well and has short game touch and attacking power and has good reversal, Balsa is a good choice. If you also chop off the table and dont mind fishing on occation and not rely on backspin to win a point, balsa might me your blade. Balsa also works really well with Tensor type rubbers: Non-balsa blades_ i will go with the MOnophonic that I am currently using works well to really great. the minus is the large head (can be trimmed) for better manuverability. takes a little to drive thru the ball, BH lp chops and chop blocks deadly. attacking is also good, and control loops and bh deep pushs go right where you want them ( not as many long balls) Off hard hit balls, the first ones might go long, but after adjustments, they just look at you and say "I cant believe you got that one back.??" feedback is excellent and I have no complaints, I plan to stay with this and get another one as a backup. I feel like I can play a player 2000+ and give them a good game and make them walk away saying...that was great we must hit again.
Peace GIG
:rock: :Chop:

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*IT IS NOT LOGICAL TO PLAY WITH LONG PIPS*
THOUGHT OF THE WEEK: If you eliminate the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth.


New blade set-up... Nittaku Monophonic with Dawie 388d-1 ox and Big slam max ( really like this one) down to FH rubber selections--I like it better than talon
flaired handle and 90 grams


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PostPosted: 05 Dec 2012, 12:33 
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I have to enthusiastically endorse the Hallmark Aurora. It's balsa. It's 2 speed. It's nothing flashy.

My game is blocking/smashing. For that type of game the Aurora excels. The interesting thing is that I'm learning to chop with it. I'm a novice chopper so take this with a grain of salt:
I've experimented with various blades and found, for me, there isn't a hell of a lot of difference between the Aurora and other blades (Defplay, Allplay and some other Donic blades) if I'm not too far away from the table.

With the right rubber the Aurora seems to have a nice soft feel and is firm enough as well.

I put some Saviga OX on one of my Auroras the other night and I was shocked at how well I could chop with it. It's a great combination for all around play.

For me it's all about "feel" and I've gotten so use to playing with the balsa nothing else feels right to me anymore.


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PostPosted: 07 Dec 2012, 13:47 
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I'm in the uncomfortable position of having experience telling me one thing and forum advice another. For the record, McAfee is a balsa supporter with ccircles ox (bh) and grippy sp (fh). He loves the gears that balsa provides and who could disagree with his centuries of experience. My experience, however, has been quite different but, while I also am using ccircles ox (bh), my fh is covered with 729 799, which is a non-grippy sp. This topic of lp/sp rubber, blade combos, and style of play has been covered in the long pimples section and you can reread Kees very perceptive analysis. With the 799 low throw angle, my close-to-the-table attack, attack, attack style (no chopping and no mid distance), balsa blades (all the Kris's and the Aurora in the combos) did NOT work. Employing Kees' stroke advice, however, particularly on the fh, non-grippy sp strokes, the hardest, stiffest blades (particularly the Galaxy T2 and BTY Gergely) are phenomenal. They are light and with the right stroke, excellent on the control. On the lp cropcircle ox side, these very hard, stiff blades benefit from active strokes. Again, for these rubbers and for my particular style of play, balsa has not worked, whether single or combo style. Considering the very low cost of the Galaxy blades, I suggest everyone try out balsa vs carbon blades for their style of play and for the rubber combos they're accustomed to.


Last edited by epictetus on 08 Dec 2012, 06:48, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: 07 Dec 2012, 14:37 
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Consider a Balsa-carbon blade that was specifically designed for OX LP.. http://www.bladesbycharlie.com/ultra-blue-streak

I've used one myself for the past year and can't say enough good things about it. An undiscovered gem.


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PostPosted: 07 Dec 2012, 18:27 
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epictetus wrote:
My experience, however, has been quite different but, while I also am using ccircles ox (bh), my fh is covered with 729 755, which is a non-grippy sp.

Isn't 755 long pips? Do you use sponge under the 755?

epictetus wrote:
I suggest everyone try out balsa vs carbon blades for their style of play and for the rubber combos they're accustomed to.

+1

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