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PostPosted: 14 Jan 2013, 14:12 
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Well used it twice already and it plays much slower than without rubbers but not as slow as a def blade. If you hit with it it does accelerate quickly like an off blade so all+ rating is correct.

Comments from opponent "...is this a $2 racquet?" :D "Sure sounds like one."

Balsa Core blades have a distinctive sound - yes it does sound like a cheap, rec blade nothing like my other blades.

Vibrtion wise, there are some vibes but there is a soft feel, especially on hard hits. No sure about describing this feel. I think it has something to do with the light mass but large volume of the thick balsa core. On hard hits I can feel a jolt but its a small one but, it does exist. It does not feel like a bomb 729 which is like holding a piece of metal in the handle.

Breaking effect? Well, it blocks very well but I think blocking has something to do with wrist strength and ability to keep your wrist locked. I can close block much better against hard fast topspins compared to def blades but I'm not sure how it stacks up against my faster blades.

More time and research required...

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PostPosted: 18 Jan 2013, 00:15 
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cyber1call wrote:
I've settled on the Giant Dragon Kris Special and just ordered a backup blade. I've gotten rid of all my other blades so I won't be tempted. Now is I could just find that perfect long pip... :P

 


I feel like the last one to arrive to the EJ balsa LP party. Been trying lots of blades with LP both with and w/o sponge but have not tried a single one with balsa until yesterday. Current top rated player at our club has used balsa with LP a lot and he has a lot of pop on his attacks, but I have thought they would be hard to chop with. I have been scared of balsa because I wanted lots of dwell time. Also most balsa blades are very light and I like heavier blades as a general rule.

On a whim I got a Kris special and tried it last night at the club. It feels too light but man, o man that blade can absolutely rip the ball. I tried a sheet of rubber that I have previously characterized as slow/control on my more usual blades (729-08 ES) but on this kris special it plays like an absolute monster. It gets 10+++ on put away power and very low ratings on "slow and spinny" topspin. The jury is still out on this blade. I used sanwei code LP with about 0.8 sponge on my BH and I had a hard time with control and chopping-I need to try some slower LP in OX. The only thing I really do not like is the smaller blade head size.

I realize most of you have been there (balsa) and done that, but this is intriguing. I do have one more blade on my trial list-darker 7p-2a defensive ordered from OOAK-. Hopefully I will not be trying anything new blade wise for a year or 2.


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PostPosted: 13 Feb 2013, 13:31 
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Quote:
Just a note about "Sealing".
Hair spray does not seal. It provides a weak bond so the rubbers will come off eaiser. Water is the solvent for hair spray. If you really want to seal a blade against water, use poly or other sealers that are water proof.



I have just put on a few coats of hairspray on a def blade and compared with an identical setup - it is very stiff!

If hairspray has this effect, what is varnish going to do in terms of playing charcateristics like speed.

Also, because hairspray is mostly water, it probably wasnt a smart thing to do to coat my blade two or three times.

It seems as though you are damed if you do varnish/hairspray and you are damed if you dont.

For me, for a def blade that I will not be changing rubbers often, I think that not sealing the blade would be fine for my inverted sponge side. But it depends on the blade, some splinter more easily than others without going into brand names, even if rubber cement is used. Rubber cement peels off easier.

On the bh side of a def blade that I would like to use with ox pips, using varnish would add speed, so that kind of sucks. If I already have a pip in mind for the blade, then I would not seal or hairspray the bh side so the blade could remain slow and hopefully the pip would last a very long time and age gracefully.

So what is the conclusion, well if you like to play defensively, and want the blade to play as slow as possible, dont varnish or hairspray! Use rubber cement for the fh side if its a sponged rubber so no water is absorbed by the unprotected blade but it can be removed without too many spinters but that depends on the blade. For the bh side if you are like most pip players, a little bit of rubber cement may do the trick to hold the ox lp. Basically I'm going down the path of accepting splinters but proteting the blade from water damage.

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PostPosted: 14 Feb 2013, 00:38 
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timeout wrote:
Just realized my pics are too puny...

here's a larger pic:
Image


and one showing the symmetry of the layers:
Image

How do you like this blade?? I have used a freind of mine before and really liked it.
what weight is it? and what rubber combo do you have. I beleive Richard Mcafee also uses
this blade as well

Peace GIG..might be going back to Balsa...>> :rock: :Chop:

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*IT IS NOT LOGICAL TO PLAY WITH LONG PIPS*
THOUGHT OF THE WEEK: If you eliminate the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth.


New blade set-up... Nittaku Monophonic with Dawie 388d-1 ox and Big slam max ( really like this one) down to FH rubber selections--I like it better than talon
flaired handle and 90 grams


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PostPosted: 14 Feb 2013, 13:53 
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Hi Bob:

Thank you for asking.

I'm a big fan of Rich and his playing style. I don't have an official coach but I get to play with a fellow club member who is distinguished for his chopper-pick-hitter style type play. He let's me shadow him, and I get to play with his two brothers who are lifers at our club in Toronto and they all are expert pip and anti players. I watch alot of the Mcafee vids and Pushblocker's as well. I am described by my clubmates as a passive off the table blocker/chopper.

Which brings me to answering your question: It is exactly what I expected! It's not a flexible blade that plays very slowly like a lkt toxic 3. Yet it also is not a speed demon like a carbon 5 ply. I am taking my time and experimenting with it presently, let's say it's a back up to my defensive slower blades.

One of the reasons why I'm not using it in my club play is that I've arrived at a certain point in my table tennis journey where it has dawned upon me to use different blades for different opponents. I guess you've seen this before - it's like a medical condition, an ej virus of some sort. When I play passive players seems like I play much better with off blades. When I play loopers, then its the opposite s enerio, I need to slow things down. This latter situation is the norm so I find that lately , the slower the blade, I more effective my passive style becomes. (I suffered my first lost in div 2 houseleague to a div 1 sub after 3 ad games to lose in 4.)

To get back to my fw+ what I really like about it is the feel when open blocking at the table.I am using p1r ox red for now on the backside. I like the feel of the long distance chop as well-very dependable and easy to do even under pressure. In fact, its a little too early for me to generalize but I think this blade might be even better for choppers than blockers, especially those who like to have short pips on fh side.

The sound of the balsa core is distinctive as well. Can't even begin to describe it but it is not a cabon ping or a low tone tock sound...


Thanks for asking again Bob.

edit: well since I got nothing really useful to say about anything else, in any other topic, I might as well add that the exception to rule about playing fast players with a slower blade and slow players with a faster blade is that sometimes against very agressive attackers, there is a need to get the ball back deep which calls for a faster blade.Getting the ball back deep, very quickly, gives less time for the attacker to prepare...and, this might be a little early to mention this, My FW+ behaves kinda of like my carbon 5 ply, sound wise, block-wise, speed-wise, chop wise, but has a lower throw and delievers a great angle when bh chopping from the bh corner

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PostPosted: 09 Apr 2013, 08:23 
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Well I stripped off my talon ox in black ( with glue sheet) and stripped off my Donic big slam max (red) on the Fh
I took a good but used sheet of palio CK 531A in red ox on the BH and old sheet of non-tensor 999 globe in 1.5.
First thing I notice is the bite the palio had in the softer but stiff blade ( Monophonic) the return angle was higher
and chop blocks and chops were biting hard and producing some really heavy back spin. control was less and
racket angle had to be adjusted to keep the ball on the table. SO I might be guessing the Tensor was speeding
up the blade when I had talon on the BH?? any ideas. I will play with this at the club and find out if the tensor
does make a difference or not. After a few weeks of testing I will get a sheet of Talon ox ( red instead of black)
test the results again. After a few weeks I will put a sheet of Donic Big slam on the blade and test it again.
When playing with talon the ball did have much better control and did not go long as the ball did not stay on the blade longer.?
I have a few choices as well.
1,seal the blade again a few more times to make the softer surface a little harder.
2.stay with the tensor and ox
3.go back to a balsa blade that has a all + speed and hard surface.

so many choices. so little time. DAZED AND CONFUSED
The plus on the Monophonic is that it chops really well. has a great sweet spot. ( trimed mine down a little)
but I decided not to chop from mid distance but to push for position block take a little off and play more
FH drives and counters.
So if anyone has experience the tensor effect please reply

Peace GIG
:headbang: :Chop:

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*IT IS NOT LOGICAL TO PLAY WITH LONG PIPS*
THOUGHT OF THE WEEK: If you eliminate the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth.


New blade set-up... Nittaku Monophonic with Dawie 388d-1 ox and Big slam max ( really like this one) down to FH rubber selections--I like it better than talon
flaired handle and 90 grams


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PostPosted: 09 Apr 2013, 08:41 
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Quote:
control was less and
racket angle had to be adjusted to keep the ball on the table. SO I might be guessing the Tensor was speeding
up the blade when I had talon on the BH?? any ideas.


I'm not sure what you mean by that statement but let's see if if it's similar to something I noticed:

I play Globe 999T on an Aurora usually with TSP [email protected] I stripped off the Globe one day and replaced it with a short pip. The result was that I lost all control of my long pip....completely neutered. My unscientific observation was that the weight...and/or the lack of the inverted sponge affected the characteristics of my lp.


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PostPosted: 09 Apr 2013, 12:55 
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I am so glad this topic came up again and I wasn't responsible :D

I have used my FW+ in different situations with different OX LPs: first 755, then P1R, then GDT.

I have concluded, given that I have the same equipment as my hero pushblocker, that it does not suit me the best. I have a sense of the blades characteristics, speed, throw, dwell, and say we say breaking effect, and I can honestly say that it plays too fast for pushblocking for me. The blocked shots land faster, deeper, and a little too high at the moment given the initial time I spent with the blade.

I can tell you that my Dawei R2 plays much better, for me that is, in terms of simply putting the ball on the table using open blocks. It has a much lower throw and with black p1r ox lp, the blade does a very good job at taking the pace right off the ball - imo this is the best breaking effect that is possible and I think it can be achieved with other blades and lp combinations but I find that this combination works for me.

Dave Maharbir recommended the rubber for me, he's a genius. His tips help me to help my team to a tie with the first place team in my houseleague. I'm really happy with the R2's pushblocking ability and would like to recommend the combination to any open-blocking pushblockers out there looking for a magic blade that will stop bullets. My houseleague sheet is at skttc.com if you are interested. And I had my greatest win tonight over the second place penhold smasher lady from china using pushblocking techniques that I learned from our forum's pushblocker. Thanks Mr.Mader! And thanks Seo Hyo Won for motivating me just before I drove to the club tonight.

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PostPosted: 09 Apr 2013, 21:30 
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What my confused state of mind was trying to say is...I think the tensor does not allow the
other rubber to keep the ball longer. *dwell so the ball does not stay on the pip longer thus sending the ball higher or longer. My main reason of putting a non tensor on the blade was to slow it down. it is slower- but more sensitive to spin. I have way better control and feel with matching the Tensor on the FH and any rubber under 1.5mm to ox on the bh. The one advantage of not having the tensor is the attacking and massive chop blocks and chopping.

So I will still test it this week. order a sheet of (RED) instead of black i had before in ox
and test the results.

I hope this clarifys the last bit of confused state in my last post...this one might also do the same.

*still a little confused...but learning fast

Peace GIG
:rock: :Chop:

_________________
*IT IS NOT LOGICAL TO PLAY WITH LONG PIPS*
THOUGHT OF THE WEEK: If you eliminate the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth.


New blade set-up... Nittaku Monophonic with Dawie 388d-1 ox and Big slam max ( really like this one) down to FH rubber selections--I like it better than talon
flaired handle and 90 grams


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PostPosted: 09 Apr 2013, 22:19 
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So although we are coming at it from different angles it seems we have the same suspiciions:
That a FH rubbe can affect the performance of BH LP


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PostPosted: 09 Apr 2013, 23:37 
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Yes i am in agreement. How do you like your R2 and does it have a Balsa core?
blade looks great on the websites, but I know little of nothing about it. I did have agood luck with a GD powerbalsa but the head was very small. I have two trimmed Kris blades that play different and still dont like the handle. mine were trimmed down a few.
I also found the chicken wing shot that pushblocker does has been in my game for a long time. I also can attack that way and it really confuses the other player. I have played with the DR.N Firewall plus and liked it really well. I could not do the chicken wing shot and the blade does not manuver as well. I trimmed my Monophonic down so I could do the shot.
I do like the feel of balsa on the short game..The one thing about the monophonic is that it does chop really well. push blocking is good--but does not perform as well as balsa. excellent killer reserve power. I would like to know more about the R2 as well.

*Back to work

Peace GIG
:rock: :Chop:

_________________
*IT IS NOT LOGICAL TO PLAY WITH LONG PIPS*
THOUGHT OF THE WEEK: If you eliminate the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth.


New blade set-up... Nittaku Monophonic with Dawie 388d-1 ox and Big slam max ( really like this one) down to FH rubber selections--I like it better than talon
flaired handle and 90 grams


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PostPosted: 09 Apr 2013, 23:47 
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Yes i am in agreement. How do you like your R2 and does it have a Balsa core?
blade looks great on the websites, but I know little of nothing about it. I did have agood luck with a GD powerbalsa but the head was very small. I have two trimmed Kris blades that play different and still dont like the handle. mine were trimmed down a few.
I also found the chicken wing shot that pushblocker does has been in my game for a long time. I also can attack that way and it really confuses the other player. I have played with the DR.N Firewall plus and liked it really well. I could not do the chicken wing shot and the blade does not manuver as well. I trimmed my Monophonic down so I could do the shot.
I do like the feel of balsa on the short game..The one thing about the monophonic is that it does chop really well. push blocking is good--but does not perform as well as balsa. excellent killer reserve power. I would like to know more about the R2 as well.

*Back to work

Peace GIG
:rock: :Chop:

_________________
*IT IS NOT LOGICAL TO PLAY WITH LONG PIPS*
THOUGHT OF THE WEEK: If you eliminate the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth.


New blade set-up... Nittaku Monophonic with Dawie 388d-1 ox and Big slam max ( really like this one) down to FH rubber selections--I like it better than talon
flaired handle and 90 grams


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PostPosted: 10 Apr 2013, 06:10 
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michiganbob54 wrote:
Yes i am in agreement. How do you like your R2 and does it have a Balsa core?
blade looks great on the websites, but I know little of nothing about it. I did have agood luck with a GD powerbalsa but the head was very small. I have two trimmed Kris blades that play different and still dont like the handle. mine were trimmed down a few.
I also found the chicken wing shot that pushblocker does has been in my game for a long time. I also can attack that way and it really confuses the other player. I have played with the DR.N Firewall plus and liked it really well. I could not do the chicken wing shot and the blade does not manuver as well. I trimmed my Monophonic down so I could do the shot.
I do like the feel of balsa on the short game..The one thing about the monophonic is that it does chop really well. push blocking is good--but does not perform as well as balsa. excellent killer reserve power. I would like to know more about the R2 as well.

*Back to work

Peace GIG

:rock: :Chop:


I will stake my houseleague record of 58 wins 9 losses (modest record given that I'm unrated but I've never played houseleague before yada...), which needs to be updated to 64 and 10, on the fact that the R2 open blocks better than the FW+ for at least me. I would humbly assume that it should block better for everyone as well in terms of producing a low block off a ox lp bh side, close to the table with the blade open at right angles to the table surface, under hard loop kills approaching the speed of light ;) .

Here is my reasoning:

- 5 ply ayous? but overall there is little vibration and is relatively thick (similar dimensions to instinct but the instinct shakes, rattles, rolls, has to much flex) so like fw + is stable during impact

- the blade is faster than the all + FW+ which then produces a lower throw

- the tsp p1r black dense grippy lp grab the ball much better than the gdt in terms of slowing down a hard impact but returns with a little reversal (not quite sure here about the amount but it is still enough spin to be contended with)

- the result: a blade that is low throw and slow. For comparison, my toxic 3 is slow but produces high throw blocks that have longer range under hard attack. For comparison, my carbobn gts produces low throw but blocks might go long because it is fast. My Matsushita Pro, vibes a little requires stronger wrist muscles than I presently have to keep it steady during open blocks.

Like I said before, this combination works for me and I am sure there are other magic combinations with different blades and rubbers but two things are clear to me:

1) R2 + tsp p1r ox black is much slower and lower than fw +

2) I question the breaking effect of a fast blade compared to a slower blade that throws low. The blocks come off the blade fast and do land...trouble is the r2 does it more often and much lower and shorter under hard attack.

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PostPosted: 22 Mar 2015, 05:56 
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Hi everybody.
I am playing with 29 different blades and long pips ,short pips ,medium long and medium short and also anti rubbers and found lots of experience ..The problem with Donic cayman is when you chop or block ,,you don't feel anything, my point is pips players like to control the game and balsa blade's are not transferring that feeling and take's long time to master on balsa blade's and also don't have the sweet spot and deep down ability's like hard wood's or carbon blade's..for blocking and push and close the table style playing you better to use 5ply old DHS pf4 or 032 and i have to remind that this blade is heavy and not easy to manoeuvre for attack ,so you have to find the light one i have ordered 9 of them and surprisingly the weight started from 95 to 135 gram,,i know its shocking but it's true,,just put r.i.t.c 729 755.2 ox and waaaalllaaa lots of spin revers and also good control because of spaces between the pips ans also very good withe every type of rubber specially with chinese grippy one but not the short pips...another good blade is YINHE GALAXY T2 carbon blade. one of the best long pips rubbers for DONIC cayman is meteor 71.1 ox....is excellent rubber with lots of control and spin revers but bad point is the time you chop the ball....with balsa blade's the ball after chop stay very high on the table and let other player to attack again,,but with carbon blade's after chop ball stay very low and also slip on the table ,,i hope i can help other friend's in this site i like to remind that i have played with these blades...LKT TOXIC 3, DONIC DEFPLAY SENSO,YASAKA SWIPPER,JOOLA DEF ,HUNTER HAWK , AND ALSO SOME HAND MADE( BY MYSELF) POPLAR WOOD AND 3PLY WOOD'S,,But non of them were good so i have switch to hard wood like old 5ply DHS032 and found it the best and try to put the long pips with small pimple's and far away pimple's like 729 755.2 very cheep and very good medium long pips..i have also played with more than 50 different long pips 's so any question please reply pips are the best and ping pong without long pips is gonna be very boring so viva long pips


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PostPosted: 08 May 2015, 18:59 
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Hi friends
I am playing with my DONIC CAYMAN sometimes and got lots of problem with forehand and put many different type of rubber and only one is 729 563.1 with 1.8 sponge but you have to put too many hours of practicing. just try as coach MCAFEE said.


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