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PostPosted: 10 Mar 2017, 03:04 
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Ninja of the Holy Chtchet
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I am resurrecting this old thread. (Trying to be responsible and not create too many duplicative threads on the same subject)

I want to ask the question:

I re-read the discussion about the semantics behind the term "Braking Effect."

A couple of questions for discussion:
Is the consensus view that braking effect isn't about the overall speed of the equipment, but rather how well it slows down a fast ball?

Moreover, and the main reason for my post, with regards to balsa blocking blades. I have read several times about how balsa blades (like Re-impact and Dr. N) have superb braking effect vs. "low to medium" paced balls. I have also heard that balsa tends to speed up becoming very bouncy vs. higher paced balls. This makes NO sense to me. If I am interpreting that correctly, what good is that?

A large part of LP pushing and blocking is being able to take the incoming pace off a heavily looped ball. The pushblocker needs great touch, timing, and soft hands to deal with heavily looped or hit balls towards their pips. But why would anyone want a blade that ONLY has good braking effect against slow balls? Even worse, why would you want a jumpy blade vs. fast balls?

This was my objection to the Aurora (and other balsas I tried) was that I felt it was very labile in how it responded to different amounts of pace.

I am about to experiment being at the table more with OX rubbers because of my infatuation with Pamela Song's style. It looks like she has a fat balsa blade (although some have speculated fat Single Ply Hinoki). I happen to have my old Aurora laying around and decided to put an LP/MP combo (MP coming in) to try this out.

Please discuss and comment....curious here.

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PostPosted: 10 Mar 2017, 19:30 
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The braking effect will be for good for low but also medium pace balls, and you can extend it further if you have a soft touch, or you're quick enough to move the bat on impact (like a chop-block or side-swipe).
For very fast balls it can certainly be hard to take the pace off unless you have a very defensive blade, but even though on the fatter balsa blades it will offer little braking effect for these fast balls, it does still produce a very low ball with very high reversal, so if you get it on (you generally just need to get your bat to it), it will be a very dangerous ball.

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PostPosted: 11 Mar 2017, 01:38 
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haggisv wrote:
The braking effect will be for good for low but also medium pace balls, and you can extend it further if you have a soft touch, or you're quick enough to move the bat on impact (like a chop-block or side-swipe).
For very fast balls it can certainly be hard to take the pace off unless you have a very defensive blade, but even though on the fatter balsa blades it will offer little braking effect for these fast balls, it does still produce a very low ball with very high reversal, so if you get it on (you generally just need to get your bat to it), it will be a very dangerous ball.


Thanks Haggisv! But after that, I'm still unsure of the value of having "braking effect" vs. Slower balls. I would only need that vs. higher paced balls. It's like inventing a crane that is superb at lifting feathers, but terrible at lifting boulders and logs.

When I use the Aurora to block (under controlled conditions) single and multi-ball, all I am trying to do is keep the ball on the table. Soft hands both passive and active (sideswipe or chop block) and my goal is to take the pace off and land it. I find that there comes a point where no matter what I do, if I don't step back I cannot keep the ball on the table...and I'm pretty good at chop blocks, and careful with closing the bat angle to lower the trajectory. There is a threshold of pace where this is near impossible.

I never want to blame equipment, but does this jive with your findings? I feel like I'm darn good at doing this, so I feel as if I have the touch, but perhaps not.

Second question... if what I said is true, (that there comes a point where pace is too great and no amount of braking effect and/or technique works) is the philosphy of an at-the-table LP pushblocker/chop blocker always to never give the opponent and opportunity to put pace on the ball? Because I see Pam Song swiping very fast loops all the time. At least, they seem fast on video. It's almost as if she and Pushblocker preffer pace.

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PostPosted: 11 Mar 2017, 09:35 
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???

Sorry for intruding,

When we say, braking effect, we talking about the absorbance, ratio of absorbed kinetic energy per total incoming kinetic energy, right?

That, in a sense, the opposite of COR?

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PostPosted: 11 Mar 2017, 18:58 
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Japsican: Yes I know exactly what you mean. The blade and rubber determines that threshold, and some blades just absorb pace a lot better than others when you block passively (i.e. no forwards motion and a loose grip).

I do also find that slower combinations are better at preventing powerful attacks because it's easier to keep the ball low and short, making attacks a lot harder. With faster combination you need to work on deep and penetrating pushes to try and prevent powerful attacks.

BeGo wrote:
When we say, braking effect, we talking about the absorbance, ratio of absorbed kinetic energy per total incoming kinetic energy, right?

Yes, the difference in energy related to the speed of the ball before and after rebound (not the spin).

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PostPosted: 12 Mar 2017, 02:52 
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Japsican wrote:
haggisv wrote:
The braking effect will be for good for low but also medium pace balls, and you can extend it further if you have a soft touch, or you're quick enough to move the bat on impact (like a chop-block or side-swipe).
For very fast balls it can certainly be hard to take the pace off unless you have a very defensive blade, but even though on the fatter balsa blades it will offer little braking effect for these fast balls, it does still produce a very low ball with very high reversal, so if you get it on (you generally just need to get your bat to it), it will be a very dangerous ball.


Thanks Haggisv! But after that, I'm still unsure of the value of having "braking effect" vs. Slower balls. I would only need that vs. higher paced balls. It's like inventing a crane that is superb at lifting feathers, but terrible at lifting boulders and logs.

When I use the Aurora to block (under controlled conditions) single and multi-ball, all I am trying to do is keep the ball on the table. Soft hands both passive and active (sideswipe or chop block) and my goal is to take the pace off and land it. I find that there comes a point where no matter what I do, if I don't step back I cannot keep the ball on the table...and I'm pretty good at chop blocks, and careful with closing the bat angle to lower the trajectory. There is a threshold of pace where this is near impossible.

I never want to blame equipment, but does this jive with your findings? I feel like I'm darn good at doing this, so I feel as if I have the touch, but perhaps not.

Second question... if what I said is true, (that there comes a point where pace is too great and no amount of braking effect and/or technique works) is the philosphy of an at-the-table LP pushblocker/chop blocker always to never give the opponent and opportunity to put pace on the ball? Because I see Pam Song swiping very fast loops all the time. At least, they seem fast on video. It's almost as if she and Pushblocker preffer pace.


They usually want SPIN coming at them. And some times you gotta take a little speed with it :lol:

No real point using LP/anti for blocking against dead balls, or at least doesn't have much "disruption" effect.

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PostPosted: 12 Mar 2017, 10:17 
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skilless_slapper wrote:
They usually want SPIN coming at them. And some times you gotta take a little speed with it :lol:

No real point using LP/anti for blocking against dead balls, or at least doesn't have much "disruption" effect.

Yes I agree, but it's the pace (speed) that's hard to take off and that's where you need the 'braking effect', most of the spin is taken care off by the rubber.

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PostPosted: 12 Mar 2017, 13:10 
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haggisv wrote:
skilless_slapper wrote:
They usually want SPIN coming at them. And some times you gotta take a little speed with it :lol:

No real point using LP/anti for blocking against dead balls, or at least doesn't have much "disruption" effect.

Yes I agree, but it's the pace (speed) that's hard to take off and that's where you need the 'braking effect', most of the spin is taken care off by the rubber.


And you end up down another rabbit hole... which blade can brake enough without sacrificing the reversal you get from hard/fast blades! I don't think the chopping blades work very well for LP blocking -- they slow the ball down a ton, but the effects from the block are nullified substantially. It's a bit like choosing a modern defender blade. You need the defensive side to work, yet also be quick enough for speedy attacks.

So you want it hard/fast for the LP blocking -- but not so hard/fast that the balls going flying off the table!

Having said that, I thin member Der here can attest to LP blockers using VERY fast blades! What's he call them? The atchuma brigade? The gergley carbon and such. So I think with practice you can go pretty fast up to most amateur levels. I like using anti-spin with the fast blades. Those deadening sponges help take off the pace ton as well, if you're not dead-set on LP.

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PostPosted: 12 Mar 2017, 18:27 
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Ah, yes, I remember postings from Der Echte and the Achuma-brigade. It was quite inspirational to me...

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