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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: 31 Mar 2010, 21:25 
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hookshot wrote:
Don't use Linseed oil. Well, you can if you want to try but, I think it would make it hard for the glue to stick. I also think the glues would attack it. It never drys to a hard finish. Let me know if you try it but I will pass on that one. :D


Actually you'll find that you're quite wrong, if you try. Depends also on what glue you use, for speed glue, i don't know, don't use it, but water base glue has absolutely no problem with oil, the only difference is that it takes from 5 minutes to dry to 10 minutes, and it also protects the blade from splintering, before oiling my blade i saw how the blade would just suck up all the water in the glue, but now it doesn't anymore, it evaporates, that is why it takes longer.


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PostPosted: 17 Mar 2015, 23:10 
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My Yinhe W-6 arrived today. Cost me 25 $ total (inc. shipping). Looks nice, pretty much feels like YE in my hand (as I can recall). Weight 86 grams, thickness 5.5 mm. It is 5 ply wood. Inner fat ply is ayous (so say everybody). 4 thin outer plies are mystery so I'm gonna go with most likely: anegre-limba-ayous-limba-anegre (like YE). I'll try this blade with new Friendship Cream transcend rubbers 2.0 mm and we shall see is it called loop king for a reason...

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Blade: Yinhe (Galaxy) W-6 (flared)
FH: Friendship Cream Transcend (2.0 mm)
BH: Friendship Cream Transcend (2.0 mm)


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PostPosted: 17 Mar 2015, 23:50 
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Obi-wan wrote:
My Yinhe W-6 arrived today. Cost me 25 $ total (inc. shipping). Looks nice, pretty much feels like YE in my hand (as I can recall). Weight 86 grams, thickness 5.5 mm. It is 5 ply wood. Inner fat ply is ayous (so say everybody). 4 thin outer plies are mystery so I'm gonna go with most likely: anegre-limba-ayous-limba-anegre (like YE). I'll try this blade with new Friendship Cream transcend rubbers 2.0 mm and we shall see is it called loop king for a reason...


If by YE you mean yasaka extra offensive: is the outer ply not walnut?

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PostPosted: 18 Mar 2015, 00:26 
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I guess YE means Yasaka Extra.


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PostPosted: 18 Mar 2015, 00:46 
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Wow.. step back a page and... time warp! Speed glue? No one's used that in years. People talking about flex and dwell time... and then I noticed all the posts were from 2008! :lol:

I've got a W-6, haven't played with it in a while.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 18 Mar 2015, 00:49 
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I found the W6 worked brilliantly with H3N / TG3N - especially on f/h for looping.

PME worked really well on b/h.

A great blade.

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PostPosted: 18 Mar 2015, 01:51 
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seguso wrote:
Obi-wan wrote:
My Yinhe W-6 arrived today. Cost me 25 $ total (inc. shipping). Looks nice, pretty much feels like YE in my hand (as I can recall). Weight 86 grams, thickness 5.5 mm. It is 5 ply wood. Inner fat ply is ayous (so say everybody). 4 thin outer plies are mystery so I'm gonna go with most likely: anegre-limba-ayous-limba-anegre (like YE). I'll try this blade with new Friendship Cream transcend rubbers 2.0 mm and we shall see is it called loop king for a reason...


If by YE you mean yasaka extra offensive: is the outer ply not walnut?

YE - Yasaka extra
YEO - Yasaka extra offensive

Like many other Chinese blades W-6 is not clear concerning plies of wood. But it is suppose to be pretty much like YE with a bit different ply thickness...
If anybody knows better about plies of W-6, share it here...

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Blade: Yinhe (Galaxy) W-6 (flared)
FH: Friendship Cream Transcend (2.0 mm)
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PostPosted: 19 Mar 2015, 03:42 
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My first impressions (after 2 hours of play with Friendship Cream transcend) of W-6 are positive of course...
Control and stability of this blade are impeccable. It loops really well but "loop king" is exaggeration. Lot of blades loop just as well as W-6. Best feature from first two hours is very safe and strong backhand shot. You can counter forehand on opponents forehand side with no trouble at all. Cream transcend is a bit beginners rubber (great control but average speed and spin) so I think this blade is going to really shine with something with more spin.

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Blade: Yinhe (Galaxy) W-6 (flared)
FH: Friendship Cream Transcend (2.0 mm)
BH: Friendship Cream Transcend (2.0 mm)


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PostPosted: 09 May 2015, 23:52 
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Has anyone tried a boosted h3 neo on the W-6? I have tried a euro style rubber and h3 neo on forehand... Euro was too bouncy and h3 neo (which was old and any factory tune worn off) too hard. So I am considering boosting the h3 neo. Any thoughts? Thanks


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PostPosted: 10 May 2015, 01:00 
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Just boost it and see what happens... :lol:

(And then tell us about it...)

Haven't played with my W6 in a while because it's too heavy for me. My N11s feel better for looping to me (maybe because they're faster, or maybe it's because I play with them all the time), and my Stiga Allround Classic is about the same speed (as the W6) but is lighter.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 10 May 2015, 01:29 
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I think I will, iskandar. I did boost the h3 neo on my pg9 and it works well, noticeably with the poly ball... The weight of the w6 is not an issue for me being that I use the pg9 more regularly and its weight approaches 200g... The pg9 is quite a bit more stiff and hard.


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PostPosted: 10 May 2015, 02:54 
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iskandar taib wrote:
Just boost it and see what happens... :lol:

(And then tell us about it...)

Haven't played with my W6 in a while because it's too heavy for me. My N11s feel better for looping to me (maybe because they're faster, or maybe it's because I play with them all the time), and my Stiga Allround Classic is about the same speed (as the W6) but is lighter.

Iskandar

My W-6 is 86 grams. That is not so heavy. Pretty average weight and suits me just fine.
I think that W-6 is a bit faster that Donic Appelgren Senso V2. So it should be a bit faster than Stiga all classic.
At first I was a bit reserved about this blade but now it starts to really shine in my hands. I can hit crazy forehand and backhand topspin and forehand side spin without loosing control. It is not a hitters blade but for spin oriented allround game it is fantastic. I love it more and more. I'm an EJ so I must change rubbers from time to time. :) Cannot wait to try faster or even stickier rubbers on W-6...

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Blade: Yinhe (Galaxy) W-6 (flared)
FH: Friendship Cream Transcend (2.0 mm)
BH: Friendship Cream Transcend (2.0 mm)


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PostPosted: 10 May 2015, 16:29 
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My W6 weighs about that, but my three N11s are around 80g (+/- 0.5g, which is phenomenally close in weight to each other). My Stiga Allround Classic is also around that. I suppose I could try the W6 with some lighter rubber (e.g. 868 or Sky Wing).

Iskandar


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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: 10 May 2015, 16:33 
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k_adrian wrote:
hookshot wrote:
Don't use Linseed oil. Well, you can if you want to try but, I think it would make it hard for the glue to stick. I also think the glues would attack it. It never drys to a hard finish. Let me know if you try it but I will pass on that one. :D


Actually you'll find that you're quite wrong, if you try. Depends also on what glue you use, for speed glue, i don't know, don't use it, but water base glue has absolutely no problem with oil, the only difference is that it takes from 5 minutes to dry to 10 minutes, and it also protects the blade from splintering, before oiling my blade i saw how the blade would just suck up all the water in the glue, but now it doesn't anymore, it evaporates, that is why it takes longer.


Linseed oil does indeed dry (it reacts with the air and polymerizes). Oil painters use it for that reason. I wouldn't brush it on, though, I'd use Keme's method (just wipe on a very thin coat with a paper towel, then wipe it off immediately with another dry paper towel). I do the same thing but I use polyurethane varnish. Just a very, very light coat.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 15 May 2015, 18:58 
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Blade: Yinhe T 11+
FH: Donic Bluestorm Z1
BH: Stiga Mantra H
TQ everyone for your great viewpoints on W-6
My W-6 arrived today. Weighed in at 84g. Quality a tat rough but acceptable for a USD22 blade.
I was hoping for a lighter blade as specs stated 82g +/- 3g and I did requested for the lightest one in their stock.

Rubbers would be Rakza 7 and Tenergy 80 on it using Cornilleou Glue Easy+ (water based glue).
I am not sure whether I should protect the wood with varnish / not as I do not envisage I would be pealing off the rubbers and sticking new ones on it in future.

Hope my choice will turn out fine.


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