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PostPosted: 15 May 2015, 19:15 
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Blade: Donic Appelgren AllplayV1
FH: Donic Baracuda
BH: Xiom Vega Europe DF
I'd seal it, especially if the blade surface feels a bit rough. Note that top Swedish handles feel rough too.

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Donic Appelgren Allplay Senso V1, Donic Baracuda 2.0mm ,BH Xiom Vega Europe DF 2.0mm
Yasaka Extra, Nil, Nil
Sunflex Hurricane, Milky Way 955 LP OX , 729 802-40 2.0


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PostPosted: 15 May 2015, 21:08 
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Funny - all my Yinhe blades (except perhaps the Huichuan, which I don't think is really a Yinhe blade!) have mirror-smooth faces. The handles are smoother than Stiga's (though the roughness actually serves a purpose here).

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 15 May 2015, 22:07 
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Blade: Donic Appelgren AllplayV1
FH: Donic Baracuda
BH: Xiom Vega Europe DF
My N11 handle is pretty smooth far smoother than the Swedish blades. Is does have a few loose fibres that catch on my bat case.

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Donic Appelgren Allplay Senso V1, Donic Baracuda 2.0mm ,BH Xiom Vega Europe DF 2.0mm
Yasaka Extra, Nil, Nil
Sunflex Hurricane, Milky Way 955 LP OX , 729 802-40 2.0


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PostPosted: 16 May 2015, 00:20 
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lionto wrote:
TQ everyone for your great viewpoints on W-6
My W-6 arrived today. Weighed in at 84g. Quality a tat rough but acceptable for a USD22 blade.
I was hoping for a lighter blade as specs stated 82g +/- 3g and I did requested for the lightest one in their stock.

Rubbers would be Rakza 7 and Tenergy 80 on it using Cornilleou Glue Easy+ (water based glue).
I am not sure whether I should protect the wood with varnish / not as I do not envisage I would be pealing off the rubbers and sticking new ones on it in future.

Hope my choice will turn out fine.

Blade doesn't feel heavy in my hand (although mine is 86 g. and I have heavy Chinese rubbers glued).
Do not judge this blade early (give it a chance). I love it more and more as I keep playing. I'm gonna change my rubbers in about 3-4 days for the first time and report if there was splintering. I do not expect any because I put one thin coat of water glue on blade and another on rubber and that holds great and removes easily...

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Blade: Yinhe (Galaxy) W-6 (flared)
FH: Friendship Cream Transcend (2.0 mm)
BH: Friendship Cream Transcend (2.0 mm)


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PostPosted: 16 May 2015, 02:39 
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I removed my rubbers today and as I expected without a slightest problem. Rubber came off easily, blade surface is totally slick and like new. I peeled glue residue (Donic blue contact water glue) really easy in about 1-2 minutes (from the blade). Most of it is on the rubber anyway. So, from my point of view, no need to varnish it.
However, I do not know other people's gluing methods and types of glue. With one thin layer on blade and one thin layer of water glue on rubber, there is no problem. Perfect bond and easy removal without damage. And I play like a pro with such a racket... :D

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Blade: Yinhe (Galaxy) W-6 (flared)
FH: Friendship Cream Transcend (2.0 mm)
BH: Friendship Cream Transcend (2.0 mm)


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PostPosted: 16 May 2015, 07:14 
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Blade: Yinhe W6
FH: Yasaka Radza 7
BH: Butterfly Tenergy 80
The playing surface is fine and smooth enough.
It's the handle that's a bit rough but I can live with it
and the flared handle is not exactly centered.

OK, I will not varnish the surface.
I don't know how to do it anyway.
You see, it's my first attempt at sticking rubbers onto bare blades.
That's why I find all your inputs so valuable.

A fellow club player told me today that water based glue will cause problems when removing rubbers,
that it will even damage the wood surface and claiming that VOC glues are better in this respect.
But I will use a thin layer of water based glue on both surface and rubber as per your experience.

No, at 84g it does not feel heavy at all, in fact felt very light.
Just hope that with the rubbers, it'll end up near to 172g which is the weight of my current blade,
a Friendship 729 A-2 with Yasaka Mark V AD and Nittaku Flyatt.

Thanks again.


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PostPosted: 16 May 2015, 08:16 
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lionto wrote:
The playing surface is fine and smooth enough.
It's the handle that's a bit rough but I can live with it
My handle is quite nice.
and the flared handle is not exactly centered.
Same here. Make sure that you glue your rubbers in a way that suits you. I leave bigger area of head face down. So it is important which rubber goes on what side (hold you blade and think about that).
OK, I will not varnish the surface.
I don't know how to do it anyway.
You see, it's my first attempt at sticking rubbers onto bare blades.
That's why I find all your inputs so valuable.
I did it about 50 times so far. I learned from youtube and worked fine almost every time. It is not hard if you know what you're doing.
A fellow club player told me today that water based glue will cause problems when removing rubbers,
that it will even damage the wood surface and claiming that VOC glues are better in this respect.
I do not find it so. Tried lots of different rubbers, blades and water glues and had no problems removing rubbers. A few seconds and it is done without any damage...
But I will use a thin layer of water based glue on both surface and rubber as per your experience.
First I put rubber on blade and draw around with pencil on rubber (so I do not need to glue entire uncut rubber surface). Than I put one layer of glue on blade and one on rubber (with painting brush) and I wait only about 1 min. to dry. Some people put more glue and wail longer but really no need. Maybe that is why they have problem when removing rubber. Then I press rubber gently on blade and go with roller up and down a few times. Than I put heavy book on top and wait about 10 minutes. Then put racket on cutting board (sponge facing up), fix with left hand and cut with scalpel in right hand. One strong and precise cut all around (second pass if needed). No need to remove thin protection sheet (if there is one), during the process. Same with second rubber. At the end I put edge tape. This works for me every time perfectly. However, you can make mistakes if not experienced... So carefully and with confidence.
No, at 84g it does not feel heavy at all, in fact felt very light.
Just hope that with the rubbers, it'll end up near to 172g which is the weight of my current blade,
My racket is 185 grams and I like it. I'm affraid that lighter racket may lack a bit of power. Maybe I'm wrong.
a Friendship 729 A-2 with Yasaka Mark V AD and Nittaku Flyatt.

Thanks again.


If you glue or cut your rubber wrong, you can fix it. It may not be perfect, but it is important to be playable...

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Blade: Yinhe (Galaxy) W-6 (flared)
FH: Friendship Cream Transcend (2.0 mm)
BH: Friendship Cream Transcend (2.0 mm)


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PostPosted: 16 May 2015, 17:03 
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My N11s are lighter (around 80g) and produce more power than my W6. Especially kills and flat topspin drives.

As for water based glues - they cause problems with some blades and not others. If it does end up ruining the W6 blade, well, it's not like you paid $150 for it, like some Japanese blades would cost.. For the time being I'm using Elmer's (VOC based rubber cement) rather than water based glue. Why? Water based glue is a major pain in the rear to use, that's why. If I ever start playing professionally and need to have my racket go through Racket Control, then I'll switch back... :lol:

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 30 Jun 2015, 20:43 
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Blade: Yinhe W6
FH: Yasaka Radza 7
BH: Butterfly Tenergy 80
Although it was my first try, I glued the rubbers successfully and the resultant weight is 181 gms.
Rubbers are Yasaka Rakza 7 and Butterfly Tenergy 80.

However I wasn't able to train with it at all as I was hospitalised during the past month.
Now I have resumed light training and first impression is I am very satisfied with it.
Weight wise, it felt quite light and I was able to handle it.
Both rubbers have more spin and faster than the Yasaka Mk V and the Flyatt.
FH: The R7 loops well. BH: The T80 blocks well.
The W6 might not be as fast as carbon blades, but then I don't think I will be able to handle the increase speed anyway. - one step at a time then.

Overall very happy with my choice.


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PostPosted: 24 Aug 2016, 19:26 
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Blade: Yinhe W6
FH: Yasaka Radza 7
BH: Butterfly Tenergy 80
Review after more than a year of usage.
Overall I am very happy with my set up, Galaxy W6 blade and rubbers.
Both the blade and the rubbers are still in good condition. I did not even have edging tape.
FH with Radza7 and BH with Tenergy80, I could do the lot – chop, block, flick, loop and topspin (although I don’t know how to topspin BH yet) close to table and mid-distance. Quite well too and with good control.
But the W6 is not a fast blade. I need tremendous force when looping from mid-distance.

Would like to consider a faster carbon blade, say, a Galaxy T11+ with perhaps Tenergy 05 and Hurricane Neo 3. Haven’t played with a carbon blade before, so would love to have your comments. I am quite old and need to conserve some energy.


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PostPosted: 24 Aug 2016, 20:03 
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lionto wrote:
Review after more than a year of usage.
Overall I am very happy with my set up, Galaxy W6 blade and rubbers.
Both the blade and the rubbers are still in good condition. I did not even have edging tape.
FH with Radza7 and BH with Tenergy80, I could do the lot – chop, block, flick, loop and topspin (although I don’t know how to topspin BH yet) close to table and mid-distance. Quite well too and with good control.


It's a good blade indeed. I didn't like it that much in shakehand but I've played in CPEN with this blade for the last months and I like it so far. I'm still pretty young with CPEN so I do not need anything fancy, this blade does the job really well, enough speed, good control, good feeling, and overall good build quality. Not much I can complain about, really.

lionto wrote:
But the W6 is not a fast blade. I need tremendous force when looping from mid-distance.
Would like to consider a faster carbon blade, say, a Galaxy T11+ with perhaps Tenergy 05 and Hurricane Neo 3. Haven’t played with a carbon blade before, so would love to have your comments. I am quite old and need to conserve some energy.


It's not fast, but not slow either ;)

I'm not too fond of the carbon blades personnally. The T11+ is particular, balsa-carbon composition, some like it, some don't. I'd personally prefer 7 ply all-wood blades. I really like the Yasaka Galaxya blade for instance, not their most famous but it's a really reaaaally good 7 ply blade, quite thin for 7 plys so it keeps a bit of the flexibility that would lack in modern Clippers and such, a high OFF- or low OFF blade in terms of speed. The Joola Viva is quite nice as well, playing in the same category, with a feeling between 5-ply and 7-ply blades. Or you could also have a look at faster 5 plys all-wood blades such as Yasaka Extra Offensive or Stiga Infinity VPS for instance, faster than W6 but still allwood so you keep a really good ball feeling. You've got lots of options for faster blades, with different behaviours though... hard to tell you what you'll prefer :)


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PostPosted: 24 Aug 2016, 23:52 
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Blade: Donic Appelgren AllplayV1
FH: Donic Baracuda
BH: Xiom Vega Europe DF
In my experience, T11+ is a rocket. Little dwell time for loops.

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Donic Appelgren Allplay Senso V1, Donic Baracuda 2.0mm ,BH Xiom Vega Europe DF 2.0mm
Yasaka Extra, Nil, Nil
Sunflex Hurricane, Milky Way 955 LP OX , 729 802-40 2.0


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PostPosted: 25 Aug 2016, 10:05 
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Blade: Yinhe W6
FH: Yasaka Radza 7
BH: Butterfly Tenergy 80
Thanks for all your comments.
I am in a train, using my mobile tackling your forum. Will continue when I am back home today. Thanks again.


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PostPosted: 25 Aug 2016, 18:28 
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Blade: Yinhe W6
FH: Yasaka Radza 7
BH: Butterfly Tenergy 80
OK I am back comfortably at home.
I have read before that the T11+ might be too stiff (a rocket) that it doesn't loop well. Thanks Cobalt.
I was picking on the T11+ because of its weight and at 70+g, its very light and I thought I can flick much better with it. Yes my BH flick shot is a killer. And I need a light weight set up as my wrists and other old joints suffer all sorts of pain. As I like to topspin to initiate an attack, maybe the T11+ will not suit me after all.
So its back to the drawing board. I would like a set up with qualities as good as my W6 set up described previous post but with faster speed. The W6 is ALL+, so maybe OFF or OFF-. Maybe the N11 then?
But then this may not be the appropriate thread to post on, this thread being specifically for review of the W6.
All your helpful views very much appreciated. Thank you.


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PostPosted: 21 Feb 2017, 20:09 
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Blade: Galaxy w4
FH: H3 neo
BH: Ritc 563
Anyone tried Hurricane 3 neo on the W6? How did it feel?


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