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 Post subject: 2 ply blade
PostPosted: 24 Jan 2016, 03:31 
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Had anybody ever used or made one?

All I have ever seen are 3 ply and up!

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 Post subject: Re: 2 ply blade
PostPosted: 24 Jan 2016, 09:44 
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I've never seen a 2-ply. I suspect making a 3-ply is less prone to warping.

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 Post subject: Re: 2 ply blade
PostPosted: 24 Jan 2016, 11:00 
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I made a 2 ply blade for a customer. It was two plys of Spruce, but it was cut on an angle so the grain ran at a 60* angle. It was about 6mm thick and the customer was trying to create a larger sweet spot while promoting more spin on his fore hand. It was not remarkable so he took the inverted rubber off it and put sandpaper on one side and OX long pips on the other side. Sounds really odd but both he and his buddy did the sand/ LP thing and it was incredible watching the two practice. By about the 3rd hit the ball was just a blur and the sound was enough to make other people put down their paddles and come over to see what was going on. Of course he only used it for practice (or would that be "drills")?

His real game was close to the table, taking the ball just off the bounce (with an oversized super thick balsa blade) both he and his buddy improved their ranking by about 150 points over a month or so. He doesn't play with us anymore (plays at another club with much higher rated players), but I understand he still does the drill thing with his buddy using that blade.

So, not a wonderful design, but he made use of it. The only other blade I made with 2 plys was again with the grain on an angle but with much thicker Spanish cedar. That person was trying to get the play of a one piece blade but in a bit more durable package. I also made him a 3 piece with a 5mm SC core (horzonal) and the otter plys 2.5mm SC (vertical). Unfortunately, Once I sent him the blades, I never heard from him again, so I have no idea how they played.

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 Post subject: Re: 2 ply blade
PostPosted: 25 Jan 2016, 10:39 
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cgswss wrote:
I made a 2 ply blade for a customer. It was two plys of Spruce, but it was cut on an angle so the grain ran at a 60* angle. It was about 6mm thick and the customer was trying to create a larger sweet spot while promoting more spin on his fore hand. It was not remarkable so he took the inverted rubber off it and put sandpaper on one side and OX long pips on the other side. Sounds really odd but both he and his buddy did the sand/ LP thing and it was incredible watching the two practice. By about the 3rd hit the ball was just a blur and the sound was enough to make other people put down their paddles and come over to see what was going on. Of course he only used it for practice (or would that be "drills")?

His real game was close to the table, taking the ball just off the bounce (with an oversized super thick balsa blade) both he and his buddy improved their ranking by about 150 points over a month or so. He doesn't play with us anymore (plays at another club with much higher rated players), but I understand he still does the drill thing with his buddy using that blade.

So, not a wonderful design, but he made use of it. The only other blade I made with 2 plys was again with the grain on an angle but with much thicker Spanish cedar. That person was trying to get the play of a one piece blade but in a bit more durable package. I also made him a 3 piece with a 5mm SC core (horzonal) and the otter plys 2.5mm SC (vertical). Unfortunately, Once I sent him the blades, I never heard from him again, so I have no idea how they played.

Thanks for the great reply! I have always loved the idea of custom blades being made for someone....and was thinking about a blade that had a ply of hinoki and a ply of willow or basswood... Trying to recreate different feels on forehand and backhand side....

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 Post subject: Re: 2 ply blade
PostPosted: 25 Jan 2016, 11:40 
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Well good luck finding someone that has REAL hinoki to make a blade. Most blade makers use other Cedar woods to replace the "Hinoki". I am very fond of Spanish Cedar for one piece and 3 piece blades. I also have some Port Orford Cedar that I have used for the same type of blade. I don't know if its accurate, but I have heard that several blade makers are selling "hinoki" blade that are made from other types of Cedar. I have never been able to buy any. If you are using a "hinoki" blade, you should try a Sp Cedar blade.

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Tibhar Furious/ juic 999/ Tibhar Grass D.Tecs
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 Post subject: Re: 2 ply blade
PostPosted: 25 Jan 2016, 11:51 
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this might be interesting for you to read...

http://www.badeola.com/AmericanHinoki/BladeReviews/review_sc_jpen.html

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Ratt Factory "ghost" (oversize kiri, balsa, kiri) innova UL/ Tibhar Grass D.tecs
Ratt Factory "mouse" (mahogany, kiri, kiri, kiri, mahogany) T05/ giant dragon talon
Tibhar Furious/ juic 999/ Tibhar Grass D.Tecs
Yasaka balsa plus/ RITC 837/ RITC 755 (friendship)
Newgy 1040 robot


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 Post subject: Re: 2 ply blade
PostPosted: 25 Jan 2016, 21:42 
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Thanks for your help! Is this your site?

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 Post subject: Re: 2 ply blade
PostPosted: 26 Jan 2016, 01:30 
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no, American Hinoki is a custom blade maker that does a LOT of one piece and 3 piece blades. They try very hard to make "Hinoki" blades by using other woods that don't come a small area in Japan. I just thought you might like reading their reviews on one piece blades.

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Ratt Factory "ghost" (oversize kiri, balsa, kiri) innova UL/ Tibhar Grass D.tecs
Ratt Factory "mouse" (mahogany, kiri, kiri, kiri, mahogany) T05/ giant dragon talon
Tibhar Furious/ juic 999/ Tibhar Grass D.Tecs
Yasaka balsa plus/ RITC 837/ RITC 755 (friendship)
Newgy 1040 robot


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 Post subject: Re: 2 ply blade
PostPosted: 27 Jan 2016, 08:59 
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Hinoki isn't an uncommon wood that comes from a small area in Japan. In fact, huge tracts of it were planted post-1946 to feed an anticipated growth in Japanese industry after the war, but most of it was left uncut until today because it was cheaper to import wood from south east asia. What IS scarce is Kiso hinoki, which is probably old growth wood from a small region. Materials Japanese are going to be expensive in any case...

Iskandar


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