OOAK Table Tennis Forum

When researching blade sealing, I came across some posts suggesting that water based glues absorb into wood blades. And that this would alter the characteristics far more than a layer or two of sealant. Is this actually true? I would have thought that the solvents in the glue would prevent this.

Am on the fence about whether to seal since I don't plan on changing rubber and regluing at any rate of frequency. The Donic Vario Clean glue I plan on using also seems to be one that isn't excessively strong enough to cause damage.

Fwiw, my blade is limba-spruce-ayous-spruce-limba

I'm in the better safe than sorry camp, so I seal all my blades. Besides, sealing keeps my blade in pristine, clean condition.

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instagram: rokphishtt

It's true.
The solvent in water based glues is WATER.

If sealed properly, you will not be able to tell the difference.
Use Poly sealant.
Dip the corner of a soft cloth in the poly, wipe the whole blade including the edges. Then wipe it off with a soft rag. Let dry and do it again.
I have used Minwax Poly both clear and satin. They make mineral based and water based Poly. I have used both. Both are totally water proof after drying. Depending on the wood type, the water based "might" raise the grain requiring light sanding after the first coat. The mineral based will not raise the grain.
Woodmakers mag has tested all commonly available finishes and found Poly to be the most scratch resistant, water proof finish available.

Do not buy the "made for table tennis sealers". They cannot be any better than Poly and are outrageously priced 10 to 100 times more expensive than Poly.

I think more people seal because they are worried about pulling a splinter off the top ply when removing rubbers than fear of glue absorbing.

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Smile in the mirror. Do that every morning and you'll start to see a big difference in your life.

Yoko Ono

Thanks. Which is the right one?

http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/cle ... lyurethane

http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/cle ... pe-on-poly

http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/cle ... pe-on-poly

I have used all of them. They are all good. The quick dry does dry very fast if the humidity is not too hi and the temperature is 75 F or higher. I have glued up after 1 hour with the quick dry. The others, I would wait overnight.
Humidity here is usually 15% to 20% and hot.
Buy the smallest can you can find. A 4oz can will do 50 to 100 blades.
If you get the spray, just spray the whole blade and wipe off with a clean rag. Old Tee shirt is good. After wiping off it should not look wet.
Only problem I know someone had, he wiped the blade off with some kind of cleaner before the poly and the poly would not harden. Chemical contamination.
I have done handles and depending on the wood type, it might feel different. Easy to tape the handle off first before applying the poly.
I have used the wipe on for gunstock finish and it protected the stock out in the rain perfectly.
After you do yours, don't be surprised when others want you to do their blades.

I seal my blades but get it done at purchase by the shop.

Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk

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Donic Waldner Senso V1,FH Baracuda Big Slam 2.0mm ,BH Victas Triple Regular 2.0mm

Have you ever dipped one in water to see if the water just runs off?
It will with poly sealer.
I would want to know what they use for the sealer.

This one:



and this one:



are oil based. This one:



is water-based. I'd go for the oil-based polyurethane, myself. The wipe-on one seems convenient.

Lots and lots and lots of brands out there, I use Pye brand myself, very cheap. I use Keme's method (apply using a paper towel).

Yeah, I've seen posts claiming that varnishing a blade will "ruin its feel", then again, I've never owned one of these hi-feel exotic blades they talk about, mainly because they're terribly expensive, and even if I did I doubt I would be able to tell the difference. Other people might but I'm pretty insensitive on these things. That Sanwei M8 blade I'm always talking about - that definitely needs the varnish, the top ply is obeche, and will pull and splinter. The N11 probably doesn't (the Meranti top ply is pretty solid AND mirror-smooth).

Iskandar

Thanks for the feedback everyone.

hookshot, where do you get 4oz cans? The smallest I can find is 1pt.

Ace Hardware used to have small cans. I might be wrong on the 4 oz though. I looked at what I have and they are larger.

Something like this?

http://www.acehardware.com/product/inde ... d=53378036

That is the size but I have not tried the Polycrylic. All I have used is Polyurathane. Cant vouch for the crylic.

I found this old thread below, in which there are more posts from you on bade sealing that are gems.

I was going to go with the fast dry spray-can poly, but there are some appalling reviews for it on the home depot site. I'll just get the water-based wipe-on poly. Smallest for any of these excluding spray-can fast dry, seems to be 1pt.

How many coats do you recommend for someone who will change rubber once a year? Should I sand between coats?

Thanks again for all your advice.

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=13910

I'd use the oil-based wipe-on polyurethane myself. No need to think in terms of coats, wipe on, wipe off, you don't want or need a thick layer of the stuff on the blade.

Iskandar