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PostPosted: 18 Mar 2017, 04:50 
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hi what blade and rubbers are good for children ?looking for a slower flexy blade like stiga offensive clasic


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PostPosted: 18 Mar 2017, 10:41 
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Blade: Donier Def
FH: Yinhe Earth 2
BH: Yinhe Earth 2
Any 5-ply "allwood," ALL/ALL+ speed blade (balsa not recommended). I suggest those form chinese brands (DHS, Globe, Yinhe, Friendship..etc.) most of the time they have smaller thinner handles and they are pretty cheap too. But specifically I recommend DHS Wind series, they're pretty cheap (<$15) but great quality for the price.

For rubbers I suggest:
FH: Globe 999 2.0mm (the one with japanese sponge is great but the basic chinese sponge is good too) (<$10)
BH: Friendship Focus Snipe III 1.5-1.8mm (<$15)


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PostPosted: 18 Mar 2017, 15:15 
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https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hot-sel ... 22548.html

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Ask for one of the lighter ones. Maybe 72-75 grams.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 18 Mar 2017, 20:32 
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Blade: Palio TCT
FH: Palio CJ8000
BH: Kokutaku Tuple 110
The most important is for a kid that the handle fits his size. The blade itself may be medium in all aspects and the rubbers should be suitable to drive and counter. It makes little sense to go for loop just yet albeit the setup should still be able to do so.
I don't think that different rubbers for fh/bh are suitable now but I do believe that going for thinner rubbers and a slower,softer blade will help him to develop more quickly, even if this setup is good for only +-6 month before he goes thicker or faster or harder or whatsoever.

That, at least, would be my standard choice for the average kid and average development. If there's a trainer around he may have a different opinion, especially when the kids character is known and the first month of training are quite strict. In that case I would go for a better and faster, maybe even stiff, blade combined with standard grippy rubbers at +-2mm.

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PostPosted: 19 Mar 2017, 00:30 
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bbkon wrote:
looking for a slower flexy blade like stiga offensive clasic


Yinhe E-3 is an alternative to Stiga OC. A nice soft feeling blade for kids to develop their strokes.
http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_po ... s-compared


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PostPosted: 19 Mar 2017, 01:18 
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genrel001 wrote:
Any 5-ply "allwood," ALL/ALL+ speed blade (balsa not recommended). I suggest those form chinese brands (DHS, Globe, Yinhe, Friendship..etc.) most of the time they have smaller thinner handles and they are pretty cheap too. But specifically I recommend DHS Wind series, they're pretty cheap (<$15) but great quality for the price.

For rubbers I suggest:
FH: Globe 999 2.0mm (the one with japanese sponge is great but the basic chinese sponge is good too) (<$10)
BH: Friendship Focus Snipe III 1.5-1.8mm (<$15)


what brand and model do you recomend from a brand like yasaka donic etc.. not chinese


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PostPosted: 19 Mar 2017, 05:01 
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You could try to contact RadivS to hear about his experience with the Yasaka 2040. He was in a similar situation to yours a while ago.


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PostPosted: 19 Mar 2017, 07:21 
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Blade: Palio TCT
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bbkon wrote:

what brand and model do you recomend from a brand like yasaka donic etc.. not chinese


Ah, yeah. Why not chinese? I'm off here, I hate fighting unfounded prejudices.

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PostPosted: 19 Mar 2017, 07:39 
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Blade: DMS Revolution
FH: DHS Hurricane 3 NEO
BH: DMS Mega Block 1.5
My son, 10 years old, began practicing table tennis 5 months ago. I got him a cheap Dawei blade (Dawei Magic Limba or Magig Hinoki). I glued 1,8 mm Dawei Inspirit and Inspirit Quattro ultra light in 1,5/1,8 mm. That is a very cheap bat but works nice. After a couple of months the top sheet started to seperate from the sponge. I changed FH rubber for an equal cheap Air Illumna soft 2,0 mm that works very good. No use buying an expansive blade this early since there will be cracks and rips on both blade and rubbers before they learn not to hit the table or drop the bat on the floor.

Soon I will let him move on to a Stiga Allround NCT which is a rather light, slightly stiff and very forgiving and controlled blade with good speed. He will still be using Air on FH I think and some cheap, soft and sticky chinese on BH (like Friendship SST Cross).

Don,t forget to seal the blade and the edges of the blade. And use sandpaper on the handle and the sharp edges of the blade.

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PostPosted: 19 Mar 2017, 11:03 
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My son, age 11, has been using a Donic Applegren Allplay. It has a ton of control and feeling, but also some flex for when he counter loops. I got him a "high spin" rubber from Joola that was on sale at the time.

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PostPosted: 19 Mar 2017, 11:10 
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Red wrote:
bbkon wrote:

what brand and model do you recomend from a brand like yasaka donic etc.. not chinese




Ah, yeah. Why not chinese? I'm off here, I hate fighting unfounded prejudices.


because most chinese blades have a bad craftmanship but expensive chinese blades


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PostPosted: 19 Mar 2017, 11:25 
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bbkon wrote:
because most chinese blades have a bad craftmanship but expensive chinese blades


Absolutely untrue. Try unwrapping a Yinhe N11 - a blade you can buy for about $11 including shipping. Absolutely beautifully built - the surfaces are like mirrors. Plays like a dream, too. The three I have are within 1 gram of each other. Anything from Yinhe will have this sort of quality, leaves my Stiga Allround Classic in the dust build-quality wise. On the Stiga, the handle is rougher, and the lens isn't level with the handle's surface.

There are other brands which aren't as nice - Huarite blades tend to be a little rougher, more evidence of rough handwork. Sanwei blades are in between. But there are examples from both of these companies that play very well, despite the slightly rougher handiwork.

This is exactly "unfounded prejudice".

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 19 Mar 2017, 13:07 
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Blade: Trinity Carbon
FH: Victas VS > 401
BH: Dornenglanz OX
While the top-end Chinese blades are generally very good, at the cheap end of the scale, they are obviously made with cheaper materials, and they often lack consistancy (by consistancy I mean one batch can often be very different from another batch).

For the cheap end of the scale, the Chinese blades offer outstanding value, but don't expect high consistancy. Blades are often outsourced, so if you get one made in a different factory, it may play very different from previous ones. Materials may also not be of the same quality, which can be hard to spot. So quality can be good, but quality control is often not so good. Since these blades are very cheap, people will rarely complain and often praise the blade, because they don't expect much for such a cheap blade.

For the mid-cost range, quality of Chinese-made blades is usually as good as that made elsewhere, but Chinese-made blades are still more likely to lack consistancy.
In general the non-Chinese brands have better consistancy for Chinese-manufctured blades, compared to the Chinese brands. I expect this is because non-chinese brands demand high quality control compared to the Chinese brands. Materials are also likely to be cheaper, so there's a higher chance the quality of wood or composite is not the same.

For the top-end, I would put the Japanese-made blades at the top for both quality and consistancy, followed closely by German/Sweden/Hungary made blades, followed closely by the others including Chinese. In this price range most people will still pay more for non-Chinese blades.

This is my personal opinion based on the hundreds of blades that I've assembled over time. There are always exception to this of course, but I feel in general it's true.

You may or not not agree with me, but I think if people wish to select from non-Chinese brands or blades not made in China, we should respect this.

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PostPosted: 19 Mar 2017, 14:26 
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Blade: Donic Appelgren AllplayV1
FH: Gewo Flexxon Soft
BH: Xiom Vega Europe DF
Donic Waldner Allplay Straight handle is quite thin and a good blade.

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PostPosted: 19 Mar 2017, 17:34 
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Blade: Hurricane Long 5
FH: H3
BH: 05
dhs hurricane 8 on at least one side if not both side use light backhand rubber.
Blade: stiga clipper or off - carbon blade

So the stiga clipper is over priced but cheaper then trying to figure out which cheaper blade is most like it.
The hurricane 8 is made for new ball like the rest of the new rubbers out there. The sponge is hard and requires the player to a lot of energy. It is slower helping develop rallies instead of cheap wins from the speed of the rubber. I think it helps develop stronger strokes and movement because you cant half-ass your swing and force your feet to move enabling stronger ball. IMO again, the ball you hit with hurricanes are either 0 % or 80-100% in quality of ball and are slower// different and the enemy player can bring it back "easier" because velocity of ball isn't the same. The 0% balls are from not moving your feet// but more forgiving for beginners if the opponent is attacking/smashing the ball at you imo.(from a beginner)hurricane 8 is noticeably heavier then tenergy

I like xiom blades or maybe dhs(the heads are larger size making the paddle heavier allowing for the young player to let the paddle to the work) it's like a golf club the weight of the head does the work while the body is relaxed and snaps when swung.

also when you get want to switch to the traditional "eu" rubber on his backhand he will understand how delicately he can be with the ball and win points blocking with ease.(5-10 years from now)


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