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 Post subject: Rpb on nittaku rorin?
PostPosted: 17 Jun 2017, 13:32 
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Blade: BTY Jun Mizutani - ST
FH: DHS h3 provincial blk
BH: Yasaka Rakza 7 red 2.0mm
A quick question could i place rpb rubber on nittaku rorin offensive blade? Could i place it without shaving off any cork or i am supposed to do so? Any pictures on how to do so?


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PostPosted: 18 Jun 2017, 01:20 
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Blade: DHS PowerG-9 OFF++
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I believe the cork sheet is there to save weight on the blade ??? And also help attach a black colored sticker or red sticker as per ITTF rules or something ?

Also I doubt you can apply any water-based glue on the cork since it is too porous maybe ? From what I read on the internet, it should be possible to remove the cork layer with care and patience to reveal the other side of the J-pen blade. Hopefully there shouldn't be any defects or irregularities on the surface and you can smooth, varnish, lightly sand it to prep it for attaching a rubber on there.

But J-pen blades tend towards the heavy side, 90g+ ? So RPB is gonna be a killer on your wrist unless you are super-strong :lol:

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PostPosted: 24 Jun 2017, 22:52 
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No, the cork isn't there "to save weight".... :lol: It's there for grip and comfort. It was a staple feature of Japanese style penhold blades, and these blades were never meant to be used for RPB. Way too heavy for starters. In the old days there would be this semicircle of thin cork, and the rest would be bare wood.. they didn't even bother coloring it, and it was perfectly legal to strike the ball with the bare wood. Which a lot of people did, to confuse their opponents. Some older guys still do this, too. Then came the two color rule sometime in the early 80s.. This gave rise to painting the backs of the blades, and to paint sheets. It became illegal to hit the ball with anything other than rubber, but still the racket had to have a red side and a black side, go figure. Which is why some people put OX long pips on the back (you don't get NEARLY as much spin reversal, though). For some years Butterfly even made a special rubber called "Pecular" with a curved ID strip just to fit this kind of blade.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 25 Jun 2017, 23:12 
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Could you give me a link to this backhand rubber 'peculiar'


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PostPosted: 26 Jun 2017, 03:00 
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There's a photo of it here. It's not exactly a backhand rubber, either. More of a change-up rubber.

http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_po ... 29&#985629

Image

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 26 Jun 2017, 18:13 
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I'm getting my BTY Jpen ready for RPB.
I scratched the cork off using a flat tip screwdriver and am now looking for some thinner to remove the paint at the back.
Will be updating soon. :)


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PostPosted: 26 Jun 2017, 22:27 
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Forget the paint... Just go over the back lightly with some fine sandpaper (maybe 320 grit), carefully clean off the dust and then apply the rubber. Doesn't matter if the paint is still there. Do use a flat sanding block, don't do it with your fingers. Flat screwdriver??? :lol:

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 28 Jun 2017, 11:49 
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Yes I'm with iskandar taib on this, don't use a screw driver as you'll just damage it, use a sanding block, and don't bother with paint.

WHat are you going to put on the back?

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PostPosted: 28 Jun 2017, 12:28 
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729 Sky Wing is nice and light... :lol: Or 868. Though I did get one really porky sheet the other day. I must admit, this talk of butchery of perfectly good, probably quite expensive classic Japanese penhold blades just to experiment with RPB is somewhat disturbing to me... If you want RPB there's all sorts of modern Chinese and European blades just made for RPB that are available.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 28 Jun 2017, 18:01 
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haggisv wrote:
Yes I'm with iskandar taib on this, don't use a screw driver as you'll just damage it, use a sanding block, and don't bother with paint.


Too late. I already took off most of the cork I need.
I don't have anything in mind right now. I'll just ask a buddy of mine for his old sheets and see what works.

Probably a classic JP/Euro sheet since the wood on its own is a rocket already.


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