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PostPosted: 03 Jul 2017, 10:25 
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Hello!

First, I'd like to thank you for reading or for answering this post.

I've been learning the ways of the modern defender, but I'm thinking about removing partially or totally the outer plies of the backhand of my Petr Korbel.

It seems that the blade composition is limba-limba-ayous-limba-limba. I was wondering if sanding the limba plies off the backhand side would make chopping easier (I believe ayous to be slower than limba) and the blade flexier (which would increase dwell time when forehand looping). Would this be viable? What are the positive and negative consequences? Would this make the blade properties a bit similar to the Donic Defplay Senso?


Last edited by fj2lin on 08 Jul 2017, 00:17, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: 03 Jul 2017, 12:23 
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Why not just get a slower lp?

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PostPosted: 03 Jul 2017, 13:43 
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#1 - you're going to get elbow-itis doing this.
#2 - better use a flat sanding block. Even if you do, you're likely going to end up with a tapered blade.

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PostPosted: 03 Jul 2017, 13:48 
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fj2lin wrote:
Hello!

First, I'd like to thank you for reading or for answering this post.

I've been learning the ways of the modern defender, but I'm thinking about removing partially or totally the outer plies of the backhand of my Petr Korbel.

It seems that the blade composition is limba-limba-ayous-limba-limba. I was wondering if sanding the limba plies off the backhand side would make chopping easier (I believe ayous to be slower than limba) and the blade flexier (which would increase dwell time when forehand looping). Would this be viable? What are the positive and negative consequences? Would this make the blade properties a bit similar to the Donic Defplay Senso?


I *think* that:

- if you are trying to make Korbel to feel like Defplay, wouldn't it be easier to just get Defplay?
- It's pretty much never about equipment or blade composition. It;s better to focus on improving your skills instead.

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PostPosted: 03 Jul 2017, 18:46 
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Heh heh heh... We'll tell him all this stuff, and then he tries it anyway, and it works perfectly... :lol: :lol: :lol:

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PostPosted: 03 Jul 2017, 20:50 
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There is a chance that the blade could warp if you go too deep with the sanding,I tried this once and that happened

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PostPosted: 07 Jul 2017, 10:55 
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Hi guys!

Thanks for the input! I really appreciate your answers, but I did end up being disobedient :rofl:

The reasons for my reproachable conduct are: :lol:
1. I already had a backup XVT Two Face;
2. Medial and core plies are ortogonal to each other, so it's pretty easy to make the surface flat and to know when to stop sanding;
3. I just love messing around with equipment.

The surgery
1. I used 36, 50, 220 and 320 grit, consecutively. The 220 and 320 grit sandpaper were only used after getting close to the core. Surprisingly the ayous core had a pronounced reddish color, probably due to the glue between itself and the medial limba ply. This and the 90 degrees difference in orientation between each ply greatly increased the precision of the procedure. The neck wings were not sanded because I was afraid of excessive flex and it's better to sand too little than too much :D
2. I applied dilluted polyurethane varnish with a kitchen sponge. Only one layer was necessary.

Results
I haven't gotten used to the modified blade yet, but my first impressions are:

Positive: :D
A. Significant increase in dwell time
B. Significant flex increase
C. Slower backhand
D. Huge increase in throw angle. This makes looping balls from waist height with forehand really easy. I guess this is good, for we usually backhand chop at waist height.
E. Some extra vibration translating into bonus feeling. This is personal.
F. I forgot to mention a great increase in spin! This resulted in a veeeeery pronounced arc and in a strong "kick effect" when my loops reach the other side of the table.

Negative?
1. Slower forehand? I'm not sure. Maybe the extra flex will compensate a little for the thinner blade. :?:

I haven't had the opportunity to chop yet, but I'll add feedback on that later. :P

P.s.: How can I upload a picture to my posts?


Last edited by fj2lin on 07 Jul 2017, 20:41, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: 07 Jul 2017, 13:54 
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fj2lin wrote:
P.s.: How can I upload a picture to my posts?

When you make a new post (or edit an existing post), underneath the space where you type in your message,there is an area title "Upload attachment". Click the Browse button to find your picture on your computer and select the file, press OK and then click on "add the file", and the picture will be added to your post.

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PostPosted: 07 Jul 2017, 19:36 
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Thanks haggisv!

It didn't work out, though. The file size is too big :|
But I guess it doesn't matter much since I didn't take any pictures before gluing on the rubbers :(


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PostPosted: 07 Jul 2017, 21:08 
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ROFL... What did I say earlier? :lol:

Quite easy to reduce the size of photos - if you use Windows, just use Paintbrush to do it. (There's a "resize" button. Reduce the largest dimension to 1000 pixels or so. Save the resized photo using a different filename so you still have the original in case you want to print it.)

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PostPosted: 07 Jul 2017, 22:25 
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What you did wasn't right or wrong, but it was really Major surgery. A few thousands of an inch removed, like the thickness of a piece of paper, will make a blade that a player can already feel as "different". Taking off whole plies is really radical. When a blade is glued up with the same plies on each side of center any tension of glue drying is even. When you remove whole layers any gluing tension that exists will be unbalanced, thus the blade will warp.
May not happen with all gluing materials but I've seen a carbon blade (probably epoxy glued) curl up like a potato chip when one outer side was removed.

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PostPosted: 08 Jul 2017, 00:00 
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Wow, thank God that my blade didn't warp :rofl:
I'd have no use for an inedible potato chip :P
I'll add a HIGH RISK tag, just in case someone tries to do the same.

Iskandar, I still don't know if it worked completely perfectly :lol:


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PostPosted: 08 Jul 2017, 03:54 
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Sounds like you ended up with a slower, spinnier two-faced blade, which is what you wanted, I think. Even if not, at least you found out what doing it did to the blade. I don't think it would have warped but there was a good risk of not getting the face flat and parallel, though, as you say, the grain direction helps a lot. A Korbel does sound like an expensive blade to try this on, I'd have tried a cheap Chinese one first.

Iskandar


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