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PostPosted: 11 Jul 2017, 18:49 
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Blade: Butterfly Matsushita Pro
FH: Rakza Z
BH: Dawei 388D-1
I have used Hurricane rubbers on 7-ply all wood, single ply hinoki, 5-ply wood, composite blades (inner force and not, alc and zlc), a balsa carbon 3+2 blade, and probably any other type that exists. The only bat that I was less than happy with was a Stiga, probably an old classic from around 1970, which felt a bit anaemic with the Hurricane 8.

The fact is that I like Hurricane rubber, and for me, it is the best FH choice on almost anything. YMMV, of course. But all of the parameters of throw, hardness and "flex" are merely details to be accounted for when playing. My favourite blade, the one I would use if my life depended on the next game of table tennis, is a 7-ply, limba-outer. ayous-inner, clipper type from DHS, the Hurricane Long 3. If the DHS rubbers were designed specifically for any blade, it would probably be something that looks a lot like that.

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PostPosted: 11 Jul 2017, 20:21 
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Hurricane 3 is actually quite slow, but it's slow only when you don't loop real hard. When you do it's quite fast. Which is why the top Chinese players use it, and not only that, they don't use ultra-fast blades even though it's a slow rubber. Most other Chinese rubbers aren't like this, either.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 16 Jul 2017, 00:18 
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Blade: Xiom Fuga
FH: DHS Hurricane 3 Neo
BH: Yasaka Rakza 7 Soft
A lot of people recommend pairing Chinese rubbers (hurricane 3) with a blade that has a hard outer surface. Maybe this is because it helps the ball to dig into the sponge more easily because H3 has a very hard sponge.

I'm currently using the Xiom Fuga with Hurricane 3 Neo and liking it a lot. I was looking for an OFF- speed blade with hard outside layers (koto). It was a really nice upgrade from the Sitga Allround Classic and I seem to be playing nice crisp shots with good spin. (The Avalox P500 is a similar blade which I was also interested in using)

I noticed that a lot of DHS blades use koto wood on the outside layers, so maybe there is something behind that theory. Anyway, I'm not quite sure what speed blade you are looking for. But, if you want OFF- speed then I recommend the Fuga or P500.


Last edited by BryanY on 16 Jul 2017, 01:50, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: 16 Jul 2017, 01:02 
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Blade: DHS PowerG-9 OFF++
FH: Yasaka Rakza X
BH: Palio Thor
Harder a blade is the faster the ball is going to rebound when it contacts the blade surface ( bottoming out the rubber ) But that also means there is less dwell time of the ball at the time of contact.
Tacky rubber == Rubber topsheet will hold the ball longer ( Euro rubber is grippy so if you bottom it out, you wont get as much spin compared to a tacky chinese rubber )

So a slow Chinese rubber on a hard blade should get grip from its tacky surface and speed from the harder blade.

That is what I believe is the idea of Hard rubber + hard blade. You will notice that Euro hard rubber may not work so well in this setup so a more OFF- or ALL+ blade would work better with hard Euro rubbers ! --> Euro rubber == Rubber topsheet is soft and very grippy so as you engage the sponge, the topsheet wraps around the ball and friction creates the spin.

So a fast/even medium speed Hard Euro rubber should be just slowed down enough and grippy enough without bottoming out the sponge to be spinny and not blindingly fast on a softer blade.

I am beginner so my opinions are from my playstyle :-)

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Backup C-pen blades:
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    1. FH/BH-YRakza9/XOmegaVT
    2. FH/BH-TSP Spectol/Yinhe Qing OX
  • 729 Bomb C-P : FH/BH-DHS H2 Orig/DHS H3 Orig
  • TSP Versal :
    1. FH/BH-XOmegaVA/YJupiter-II
    2. FH/BH-*blank*
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH- DHS TG2Neo/Gewo HypeXT 47
  • Dr. Neubauer
    High Technology
    Cypress-Carbon(ST)
    ***************************** : FH/BH-YRakza7/YRakza7
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PostPosted: 15 Oct 2017, 12:19 
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Blade: DHS 301
FH: 729 Battle II
BH: Palio AK47 Blue
What you want is a soft springy blade if you're using hard rubbers.

Unlike what people wrote here, you won't be getting that much spin/control from the tackiness as you'd like to hope - much of the control comes from the hardness of the sponge and the springlessness of the rubber itself in comparison to tensors.
If you pair a hard blade with a hard rubber it's not going to be very easy to get the kind of spin and control you want because everything about the assembly is fighting against ball dwell time.

The soft blade that lets the ball in a bit helps you create great spin. At low speeds the sponge and rubber keep the ball slow and the blade doesn't engage much. This is OK because at lower speed the tackiness is effective.
At higher impact the tackiness isn't very effective, and if SOMETHING doesn't give, you won't be able to generate spin. The soft blade ensures that something gives, and that, combined with the tack, makes the spin.


I highly recommend the Palio King Yue and also the Liu Shiwen ZLF.
Both are softer blades which are very high quality and help you get the most out of the chinese rubbers. Note that they both have slightly larger heads than the norm (to allow for more flex).


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PostPosted: 15 Oct 2017, 14:00 
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Yes I think for the harder Chinese rubber, a softer blade with a little flex works best. Something like the Avalox p500 or some of the classic Stiga blades.

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PostPosted: 16 Oct 2017, 00:13 
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I was about to reply to this, and then I went back and read the entire thread. I'm glad I did. I think everything that can be said on the subject has already been said.. :lol:

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 28 Nov 2017, 14:58 
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Blade: Andro Temper Tech OFF+
FH: DHS
BH: Zava
Great topic. In my understanding when you touch the ball in position of your bat perpendicularly (at an angle of 90°) to table/floor (flat hitting) then your blade is playing. In case you brush the ball closer to 12 o'clock and position of your bat almost parallel to the floor the role of your blade becomes minimal. I am wondering can hitting at 12 o'clock reduce the problem of Chinese rubber on hard blade? No doubt such hitting is extremely hard.


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PostPosted: 14 Dec 2017, 15:52 
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Blade: DHS PowerG-9 OFF++
FH: Yasaka Rakza X
BH: Palio Thor
I think it is preferable to hit the ball at an angle. 11 o'clock, 7o'clock , 5o'clock, 2o'clock etc :P Sorry I don't know what clock position represents what stroke on what side or direction. :lol: :rofl:

6 to 12 or 3 to 9 clock hitting isn't ideal and likely result in some failure. So better to contact at an angle even a very thin angle is fine. :P

You can't play purely blade or purely topsheet or purely sponge game with the current sandwich rubbers and multi-ply blades. So better to use all of the properties than trying skipping some of them.

_________________
__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
    1. FH/BH-YRakza9/XOmegaVT
    2. FH/BH-TSP Spectol/Yinhe Qing OX
  • 729 Bomb C-P : FH/BH-DHS H2 Orig/DHS H3 Orig
  • TSP Versal :
    1. FH/BH-XOmegaVA/YJupiter-II
    2. FH/BH-*blank*
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH- DHS TG2Neo/Gewo HypeXT 47
  • Dr. Neubauer
    High Technology
    Cypress-Carbon(ST)
    ***************************** : FH/BH-YRakza7/YRakza7
==========================================================


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