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PostPosted: 16 Dec 2017, 01:15 
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Blade: Ma Lin or Falck Carbon
FH: Tenergy 05fx 1.9mm
BH: Spinlord Kieler 1.8mm
I have just switched to lp on bh. love my stiga infinity but lp are not great on it. tried lp on a tsp balsa 6.5mm and they are amazing but fh is too bouncy for tenergy.

so am i allowed to glue 2 blades together ie balsa 3.5 to stiga infinity, i would remove handles glue them together and put handles back on and sand all the edges equally, i assume this would be legal as it still meets wood requirements? anyone ever done anything similar?

so this would give me bounsy balsa lp bh and retain my nice loopy and hitty fh with tenergy 05fx

anyone ever tried


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PostPosted: 16 Dec 2017, 02:47 
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Blade: Viscaria FL
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I think it might not be legal because your new blade wouldn't be approved by ITTF, but I am not sure because this could be a requirement for rubbers, and not blades. You could also have a look at some assymetrical re-impact blades. For example the Re-Impact Backspin Control blade has forehand rating Off- and backhand rating Def+. http://re-impact-blades.com/blades/backspin-control/


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PostPosted: 16 Dec 2017, 03:17 
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Blade: Juic Hinoki One Ply
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ITTF does not approve blades like rubbers. As long as they meet the wood % requirements, flatness, etc, they are good to go. Any thickness or size is OK.


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PostPosted: 16 Dec 2017, 04:11 
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Blade: S&T Black & White
FH: Omega VII Euro 2mm
BH: Spinlord Orkan 1.5mm
Alternatively just go for a fast non tensor rubber on the TSP 6.5. such as Xiom Musa. You will still have lots of speed without the bounce. I used 1.8mm Musa on an old 6.5 and it worked really well.


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PostPosted: 17 Dec 2017, 00:52 
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Heck, just go ahead and do it!!! And take photos and let us know what happens. After all, what's there to lose other than a little money and time? :lol:

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 17 Dec 2017, 01:23 
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Blade: S&T Black & White
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BH: Spinlord Orkan 1.5mm
First step would be to confirm that both donor blades gave the characteristics you want for b/h and f/h. I know from experience of both that pimples on a balsa 3.5 will play very different from a 6.5. but no doubt when you add some extra Plies to the f/h side from the stiga the b/h side may take on a whole new character.

Just glueing the two blades together will create something far too heavy. What you probably really need to do is to somehow slice the stiga in half and add just the outer plies to the TSP blade which will reduce the balsa kick. Alternatively it should be possible to source some plies in a suitable wood e.g samba or limba and then just attach these.

On a similar note I have a TSP trinity carbon that I would like to slowdown the b/h side and was thinking of adding a slow layer or I suppose I could just get a rubber with dampening sponge.


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PostPosted: 17 Dec 2017, 01:58 
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Blade: DHS PowerG-9 OFF++
FH: Yasaka Rakza X
BH: Palio Thor
Slicing factory glued plies off existing blade ? Is that even remotely possible without damaging the plies ?

Maybe it will be better to go for custom blade like BBC blades or Ross Leidy blade ?

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__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
    1. FH/BH-YRakza9/XOmegaVT
    2. FH/BH-TSP Spectol/Yinhe Qing OX
  • 729 Bomb C-P : FH/BH-DHS H2 Orig/DHS H3 Orig
  • TSP Versal :
    1. FH/BH-XOmegaVA/YJupiter-II
    2. FH/BH-*blank*
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH- DHS TG2Neo/Gewo HypeXT 47
  • Dr. Neubauer
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    Cypress-Carbon(ST)
    ***************************** : FH/BH-YRakza7/YRakza7
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PostPosted: 17 Dec 2017, 17:52 
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BH: S&T Hellfire 0.9
Pretty sure its illegal, however, there are some alternatives. Hallmark have a few "half and half" blades. I used to have one, and it was pretty good. One half usually have carbon in for fast attacking, and the other(for defending) have a different set up with something much slower. Do a little more reaserch, could be an idea?

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PostPosted: 18 Dec 2017, 02:39 
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ChasFox wrote:
Just glueing the two blades together will create something far too heavy. What you probably really need to do is to somehow slice the stiga in half and add just the outer plies to the TSP blade which will reduce the balsa kick. Alternatively it should be possible to source some plies in a suitable wood e.g samba or limba and then just attach these.


Depends on the blades. That thin balsa blade won't weigh much once you've removed the handle pieces. If you're planning to use OX long pips on one side you can tolerate a heavier blade anyway, since the rubber weighs next to nothing. I wouldn't even try to slice blades in half...

ModernDef wrote:
Pretty sure its illegal, however, there are some alternatives. Hallmark have a few "half and half" blades. I used to have one, and it was pretty good. One half usually have carbon in for fast attacking, and the other(for defending) have a different set up with something much slower. Do a little more reaserch, could be an idea?


Why would it be illegal at all?

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 18 Dec 2017, 07:02 
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ModernDef,
Please give your reasons for being illegal.
I find nothing in the ITTF regs on blades that would make it illegal. A blade 3 inches thick is OK. A blade 2 feet wide is OK. Home made blades are OK. 50 plys are OK. What are you pretty sure about? There are many blade makers on the forum that would like to know.


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PostPosted: 18 Dec 2017, 22:36 
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Blade: custom all wood
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MOG1111 wrote:
I have just switched to lp on bh. love my stiga infinity but lp are not great on it. tried lp on a tsp balsa 6.5mm and they are amazing but fh is too bouncy for tenergy.

so am i allowed to glue 2 blades together ie balsa 3.5 to stiga infinity, i would remove handles glue them together and put handles back on and sand all the edges equally, i assume this would be legal as it still meets wood requirements? anyone ever done anything similar?

so this would give me bounsy balsa lp bh and retain my nice loopy and hitty fh with tenergy 05fx

anyone ever tried

It's legal but it won't work. You will end up with a blade that's too heavy, to thick, and doesn't play like either one. The blade shapes will probably not be identical and the handles won't fit either.
Building a custom blade with different layers on FH and BH side, will get you closer to what you're looking for. You can always pm me if you're interested.

good luck


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PostPosted: 18 Dec 2017, 23:24 
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Blade: Butterfly Defence Alpha
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BH: LKTStrgr+KokBLuJap 1.1 mm
Agree wih Hookshot,

What OP shall be doing are not illegal,

As long as the hitting face is flat and properly covered.

Btw,

http://tabletennisshop.com.au/bmz_cache ... 33x550.jpg

ReImpact Dark Knight

Image owned by HaggisV.

Sent from my i5E using Tapatalk


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PostPosted: 18 Dec 2017, 23:56 
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Blade: Juic Hinoki One Ply
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MOG111,
IF you want to try combo blade without ruining your blades, try this.

Cover the side you want slow with double sided tape. Add a layer of 1/16" balsa. Then glue your rubber on or use another layer of double sided tape and put the rubber on. It will not add a lot of weight and will slow that side down. It will also be legal. Outside ply must be wood.

I have done this with anti and it did slow it quit a bit. :)

Good part is it can be removed with no damage to the blade.


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PostPosted: 19 Dec 2017, 00:47 
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It is not illegal. You can play with any blade made of wood (or mostly wood based on %). The ITTF does not require approval of blades.

Hence why you will see people playing with all sorts of strange custom or DIY paddles.... 2 faces, gun grip, ergo-grips, super extra large face, weird face shapes, etc.

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PostPosted: 19 Dec 2017, 01:22 
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MDP wrote:
It's legal but it won't work. You will end up with a blade that's too heavy, to thick, and doesn't play like either one. The blade shapes will probably not be identical and the handles won't fit either.


Too heavy, maybe (depends on what you begin with and the rubbers you plan to use). Too thick? I've seen balsa blades with 10-12mm cores. And 12mm thick one ply Hinoki blades. As for the other objections - no real problem. Glue them together (and make sure they're tightly clamped together as the glue dries), then use a disc or belt sander to sand it down to some smaller shape (or use the shape of the smaller blade). Handles? Use the smaller one, sand the blade tang to match, or make different grips (easy with balsa). A balsa handle will also reduce weight overall, and if you use OX long pips you shouldn't end up with a head-heavy racket. Yeah, potentially, you're ruining two blades for no good purpose, but it's an experiment after all..

BeGo wrote:

Image

ReImpact Dark Knight



That one always reminds me of a Big Mac, somehow.. :lol:

Iskandar


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