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PostPosted: 08 Aug 2018, 17:06 
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Blade: TSP Versal CP
FH: Sanwei Target National
BH: Yasaka Rakza 9
Got a broken Nittaku Jpen with Avalox Purot rubber
Can anyone id this blade? Is it a pre-made?

And will this work for fixing it ?? It is broken clean in 2 parts down the middle.


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Edit: Some history ..... One veteran plays at my club but at odd sessions. Met him at one of those sessions and he was surprised that a Penhold player like me exists at the club. I recommended my usual mornings sessions on weekends, where other veterans and kids play regularly.

He just gave me the bat saying he dint know anyone who plays penhold and hoped it would help me ;-)

But when I got home and disassembled the bat ... found that the Avalox Purot rubber was literally holding the 2 pieces of 1-ply hinoki together.

I used a 2-mix epoxy to glue the 2 halves back together. I want and need advice on how to get this blade properly fixed. I am pretty sure the epoxy isn't strong enough to survive any table hits. So this blade is gonna fold in two pretty soon. :punch: :lol:

Kinda want to figure out the best method(s) to fix this blade and hopefully experiment with it based on Takyuu Arai coach ( Tacshow.net japanese Youtube channel ) tutorials :-) :lol:

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Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
    1. FH/BH-729OEM/729SuperFX
    2. FH/BH-STN
  • 729 Bomb : FH/BH-YRD/T5QS
  • DHS PowerG-9 : FH/BH-729SuperFX
  • Stag Balsa Koto : FH/BH-YRD/YR9
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH-YSD
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PostPosted: 16 Aug 2018, 05:16 
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Koreans often break their j pen blades down the middle and use wood glue to mend it back together stronger than before.

Since you already used a glue that might break again and possibly be difficult to remove all the glue totally to perfectly align bare wood to bare wood... I dont know what to say except this is a learning point.

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PostPosted: 17 Aug 2018, 01:34 
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Epoxy (the stuff that takes hours to cure, not the five minute stuff) is bloody strong. Stronger than most wood glues. It's what we use to glue in engine bearers on model planes, so it's plenty strong enough for a table tennis blade. The challenge is getting a gapless joint - the tighter you clamp the two pieces together the stronger the joint. When you do this the excess will ooze out the sides, you can scrape that off with a credit card once the glue has semi-set. If you DON'T clamp the blade halves tightly together there will be more glue in the joint, which should still (unless it's REALLY sloppy) be plenty strong enough but heavier, plus you might not like what it does to the blade vibrations.

If you used the 5 minute stuff, in the first sentence I learnt in German class, Es tut mir leid.. :lol:

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 18 Aug 2018, 15:16 
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Blade: TSP Versal CP
FH: Sanwei Target National
BH: Yasaka Rakza 9
Thanks for the advise! The epoxy took bout 2 days to cure completely! So far the jpen survived one table hit :-P but still holding strong :-D i will keep in mind about that clamping thing!!! I used 2 metal rulers and 2 box cutter blades to keep it straight. I dint clamp but i placed couple of books and left it for the 2 days. Used xacto knife to cut off the excess and sandpapered with 220 grit paper.

_________________
__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
    1. FH/BH-729OEM/729SuperFX
    2. FH/BH-STN
  • 729 Bomb : FH/BH-YRD/T5QS
  • DHS PowerG-9 : FH/BH-729SuperFX
  • Stag Balsa Koto : FH/BH-YRD/YR9
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH-YSD
==========================================================


Top
 Profile  
 
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