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PostPosted: 03 Mar 2009, 20:46 
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Hello there,

I haven't been on here for a while but i have a question about vintage table tennis bats.

I have a stiga cobra *** (Stellan Bergsston) from 1967-1971 i think. I have been told, and read about these blades having fantastic touch and a club member has recently bought one to renovate it. I would really like to do the same.

Does anyone know anything about these old stiga's and are they as good as people say?

Also I really need to find out how to remove the rubbers as they are glued on very well and the blade is fragile around the edges.

Any help would be appreciated.

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stiga stellan bengtsson 1970/71 has a cracked handle now, so ....

donic jo coppa gold: 2.0mm black
yasaka phantom 007: ox red / donic akaddi l2 0.6mm red


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PostPosted: 03 Mar 2009, 22:17 
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I have a Stellan Bergsston OC

They match Chinese rubber very well.

The rubber is removed using rubber remover - Tibhar do one. Any more powerful solvent risks damaging the blade.

Restoration should be done by a professional as the blades are highly collectable and should have a value of around $150+ condition depending.

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PostPosted: 03 Mar 2009, 23:54 
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Thanks for that. The condition is not terrible: a couple of splinters/chips along the edge and one dent/split in the veneers which is a bit deeper.

Do you know anyone/anywhere that can help with it?

It has the original yasaka / stiga rubbers on, do you think the rubber remover will manage to get even those rubbers off?

Thanks again.

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offensive combination

stiga stellan bengtsson 1970/71 has a cracked handle now, so ....

donic jo coppa gold: 2.0mm black
yasaka phantom 007: ox red / donic akaddi l2 0.6mm red


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PostPosted: 03 Mar 2009, 23:59 
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More likely the sponge than the rubber will be the problem. Soak the sponge well in turpentine and chip away at it. Keep adding more turps as it dries from the sponge. The turps won't hurt the wood. If anything it will be good for it.

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PostPosted: 04 Mar 2009, 04:54 
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Thanks that's a good tip, and i think the sponge seems to be the problem just by picking at it a bit with my fingers.

I would guess it's a good idea to let it dry thoroughly after it's been covered in the turps.

Any idea where or how i can fix the splintered/dented parts of the wood and if so what glue would be advisable? I am excited about this now as you may guess...

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offensive combination

stiga stellan bengtsson 1970/71 has a cracked handle now, so ....

donic jo coppa gold: 2.0mm black
yasaka phantom 007: ox red / donic akaddi l2 0.6mm red


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PostPosted: 04 Mar 2009, 09:11 
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I played with the Alser (flared handle) versions of those my entire teenage years with classic Mark V. The one thing you will find playing with them is (1) they are fragile and (2) no two play alike. But they are beautifully well balanced. My friend Perry Schwartzberg owns about a dozen of them from circa 1970 and still plays with them. Very well (~2400). Darko Ropp plays with later versions of the Alser (from 1985 or so). Very well (~2450-2520 depending on how much he practices). Most people used to modern blades would find them quite slow and flexible, but not all of them. Like I said, no two play alike.

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PostPosted: 04 Mar 2009, 10:05 
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I think the safest solution is not to mess with the blade and keep the original rubbers on. For most old blade it's better this way; plus I think the some of the value is lost if the rubbers are taken off.

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PostPosted: 04 Mar 2009, 20:23 
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Thanks for those replies guys, i think i will give it a go.

The original rubbers are ruined and there will be no value to the bat in that condition i don't think. I quite like the idea of renovating my dad's bat and continuing it's table tennis life.

Just need to do the work on it and choose my rubbers well.

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offensive combination

stiga stellan bengtsson 1970/71 has a cracked handle now, so ....

donic jo coppa gold: 2.0mm black
yasaka phantom 007: ox red / donic akaddi l2 0.6mm red


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PostPosted: 05 Mar 2009, 13:54 
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They were built for classic Mark V! You can't go wrong with that.

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2.2 mm Nexy Karis M on FH and BH


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PostPosted: 05 Mar 2009, 15:09 
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They are great blades. Stiga have a few commerative editions and there's a website dedicated to them and their history:

http://www.oldstiga.hu/en_rackets.html

I like how the new Stiga Ebenholz V & VII blades have the old Stiga blade styling.


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PostPosted: 05 Mar 2009, 16:10 
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Geoff wrote:
They are great blades. Stiga have a few commerative editions and there's a website dedicated to them and their history:

http://www.oldstiga.hu/en_rackets.html

I like how the new Stiga Ebenholz V & VII blades have the old Stiga blade styling.


I immediately thought of that site too, but could not find the link :oops: :wink:

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 Post subject: varnish
PostPosted: 05 Mar 2009, 20:47 
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Funnily enough i identified the exaact model of the blade from that site and i will be writing up my experiences to be put up on the site.

Recently realised that the handle is varnished and i am not sure if this is the normal thing, otherwise i need to know how to safely remove it!

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offensive combination

stiga stellan bengtsson 1970/71 has a cracked handle now, so ....

donic jo coppa gold: 2.0mm black
yasaka phantom 007: ox red / donic akaddi l2 0.6mm red


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PostPosted: 20 Jan 2018, 09:28 
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Blade: Nittaku Lialox
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Hi there.

I was wondering what happened to your blade. Did you successfully restored it?


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 Post subject: Re: varnish
PostPosted: 01 Feb 2018, 13:10 
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a_r_w_c wrote:
Recently realised that the handle is varnished and i am not sure if this is the normal thing, otherwise i need to know how to safely remove it!


Common enough back then. Often had the faces of the eponymous player on the handle, too. I'd leave the varnish on, if it's too slippery try a couple rubber bands around the base.

Iskandar


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