OOAK Table Tennis Forum

hookshot, thanks for your sealing input. One thing that I have always wanted to learn. Would you recommend water-based or oil-based sealant for water-based glue? Reason I ask is with water-based glue on water-based poly, I encountered moulding problem. Moulding don't occur when I use VOC normal glue. So just wondering if oil-based sealant would be better than water-based? Or maybe the moulding problem lies with the glue? Hope I am clear in my question

Oh, yeah, thanks for reminding about using a hard sanding block to ensure even surface. That is very important.

Cheers.

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Main Setup: There is NO such thing
Table Tennis Directory | Rubber Mass Database I | Rubber Mass Database II | Sponge Hardness Database

i've never sand between coats... are the blades doomed? i usually wait a few hours... say 2-4 hours before applying the next one, sometimes 8 hours... most 1 day (tonight then tomorrow night)...

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instagram: rokphishtt

Don't worry Rok, I have only seen a coat NOT stick once. i think it might have something to do with the weather also.

Tests on mineral and water based Poly finishes prove they are almost identical when dry. Water based Poly is completly waterproof when dry. Verathane is another brand of Poly and comes in mineral and water base also.

The mold? I have no idea. never seen it.

Tommyzai uses Verathane, quick dry, water based. I use Minwax Quick Dry, mineral based Poly. I have tried many other finishes and so has Tommy. These are just the two we prefer. I have sealed over 75 blades now. Tommy has done at least 50. I have used one to 10 coats. I have done most in pairs, doing one first, so I could compare a sealed blade to the unsealed. Most of my blades are FAST. It takes many coats before you can tell any difference. You may see a difference quicker on an ALL blade.

Sealing the edges helps keep the top ply from separating if you whack the table. Many Many advantages to sealing. I did find, on a blade with 5 coats and a table top finish, Tear Mender did not hold well. I had to sand lightly to break the finish with #400 wet/dry sandpaper.

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Shakehand, left handed.
Blade, Yinhe, W-1
Forhand, H-3 National
Backhand, Sriver FX Max

hookshot, thanks for the reply. I have actually sealed more than 10 blades myself. One of them was so smooth after sanding with 1200 grit that likewise, I had break it a bit using the 800 grit. Otherwise, the glue won't stay on the blade

Cheers.

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Main Setup: There is NO such thing
Table Tennis Directory | Rubber Mass Database I | Rubber Mass Database II | Sponge Hardness Database

Ok, thanks to rokphish I finally know how to get my pictures to appear, so here they are:




Note how nice and tight the grains are. This is great quality hinoki! Strangely enough, there is no mention of carbon in the printed description!


The blue colour scheme is pretty cool!


Here you can see the bluish middle layer. Not sure if its just part of the colour scheme, or something more significant? However you can also see a very thin grey/blue layer just below the hinoki layer, which looks like the carbon layer.


Once again, the nice tight grain, this time on the back. I've mentioned before that the grain pattern closely resembles the AAA spruce top grain on my acoustic guitar (which cost me a pretty penny!)


Here's my Cole Clark guitar AAA Spruce Top. The grain is much closer and tighter, but you can see the similarities.

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Main bat:
Kokutaku Laser Carbon C-pen
729 Transcend SP 2.0mm Black
Juic Offense Ultima 2.0mm Red

Backup:
Blade: Stiga Optimum Sync C-Pen
Globe 999 National Team 2.0mm Red
729 804-40 Super Soft Pro Ver 2.0mm Black

On its way: Haifu Blue Whale II (Black Sponge) Red Label Factory Tuned

I use the Jo Sanjo's water-based poly as well. I usually apply 3 layers with no sanding in between, but final sanding in the end. The good thing about this poly is that while the liquid solidifies, it does not harden. What I get in the end is a flexible piece of protection on the blade and I believe that it does not change the blade's characteristic as it's not hard enough to do so. Sealing the edge will require something more substantial, like superglue or epoxy.

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BTY Joo Se Hyuk | BTY Tenergy 64 2.1mm | TSP P1R 1mm

Chop til you drop baby!

Guitarpug, that is a beauty you got there. Of all the Kokutaku blade that I have seen, this one is the most beautiful.

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Expert II crwi C-Pen
Red Acuda P1

Why thank you aeoliah! I'm glad you think so too!

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Main bat:
Kokutaku Laser Carbon C-pen
729 Transcend SP 2.0mm Black
Juic Offense Ultima 2.0mm Red

Backup:
Blade: Stiga Optimum Sync C-Pen
Globe 999 National Team 2.0mm Red
729 804-40 Super Soft Pro Ver 2.0mm Black

On its way: Haifu Blue Whale II (Black Sponge) Red Label Factory Tuned

It's a work of art. And smells like one too!

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BTY Joo Se Hyuk | BTY Tenergy 64 2.1mm | TSP P1R 1mm

Chop til you drop baby!

Yeah, I wish I could bottle the smell! I'd have it as my preferred car air-freshener!

Just had a thought - would sealing the blade seal in the smell?

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Main bat:
Kokutaku Laser Carbon C-pen
729 Transcend SP 2.0mm Black
Juic Offense Ultima 2.0mm Red

Backup:
Blade: Stiga Optimum Sync C-Pen
Globe 999 National Team 2.0mm Red
729 804-40 Super Soft Pro Ver 2.0mm Black

On its way: Haifu Blue Whale II (Black Sponge) Red Label Factory Tuned

GP, if sealing the blade don't seal the smell, putting on the rubbers would

By the way, I put the Octopus on the BH of my KLC. Had very good result with it last night. Especially with my rpb loop Somehow, of all the rubbers I tried, inverted, sp, mp, etc, this Octopus seems to go very well with the KLC for my BH. Very good feel And NO, you cannot have it back

Cheers.

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Main Setup: There is NO such thing
Table Tennis Directory | Rubber Mass Database I | Rubber Mass Database II | Sponge Hardness Database

FC was putting the balls away with the Octopus/KLC so easily yesterday and frustrated his opponent at the same time.

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BTY Joo Se Hyuk | BTY Tenergy 64 2.1mm | TSP P1R 1mm

Chop til you drop baby!

Hey! That is great to hear that my (well yours now) Octopus is being put to such good use!

So fattchoi - does that mean you're one step closer to the darkside?

BeerBelly - were you on the receiving end of fattchoi's Octopus smashes?

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Main bat:
Kokutaku Laser Carbon C-pen
729 Transcend SP 2.0mm Black
Juic Offense Ultima 2.0mm Red

Backup:
Blade: Stiga Optimum Sync C-Pen
Globe 999 National Team 2.0mm Red
729 804-40 Super Soft Pro Ver 2.0mm Black

On its way: Haifu Blue Whale II (Black Sponge) Red Label Factory Tuned

GP, you can say I have one foot in the darkside firmly now In fact, I have also recently got 2 pieces of Neptune. Tried it and did NOT like it. And immediately rip it off after that day. So thought no way I am using lp. That is why I decided to go all the way round back to double side inverted recently. Then along come your (well...mine now) Octopus. To be honest, I thought it is only polite to at least give it a go (stir-fried) and then probably won't taste any good (based on my Neptune experience) and I would forward it to anyone who wants it. So my expectation of it was very low. But now, I must say I am most surprised by its good feel and control that I can get. I am even wondering now that maybe the Neptune played badly because of the T2 blade that I put it on last time. Or maybe I just wasn't patient enough. Anyway, I have the Neptune back on the T2 again. But even just hitting with it against the wall, the Octopus on the KLC feels much nicer. Once again, thanks for being so sensible and not letting it rot away somewhere. At least now, it is much loved and also gained the highest honour by being on the BH of my most favourite KLC

Beer Belly and I only managed a very brief hit. So not much chance to use the Octopus against him

Cheers.

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Main Setup: There is NO such thing
Table Tennis Directory | Rubber Mass Database I | Rubber Mass Database II | Sponge Hardness Database

I think it's safe to say that the Joola Octupus is a necessary arsenal to Fattchoi's game now - he smashes and flicks so well with it.

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BTY Joo Se Hyuk | BTY Tenergy 64 2.1mm | TSP P1R 1mm

Chop til you drop baby!